Titan up
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Posts posted by Titan up
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I had them out, like I do every week, for inspection. I put them back in Thursday night, and rode today. I'll take them back out this week, most likely in the next day or two and snap some pics.
You inspect your reeds once a week??!!
Anyway nice price for some nice reeds.
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I like the black and red. I like candy red or blue with white plastic too.
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I know I can't wait!!!
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If you do a search you can find some threads where guys were cutting a couple inches out of the expansion chambers and re-welding them back together. It was supposed to bring them up to par with a shearer or CPI type pipe(drag pipe)
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I'd keep the stock carbs. Just remove the tors if you haven't already. Stock carbs are under rated they will flow up to 65-70 horsepower.
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Need to pull the clutch cover off and look at the end of the shift shaft and make sure the 2 claws are still grabbing the pins on the shift star. They could have slipped off, or the shift shaft is way out of adjustment. Do you have a Clymers?
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Thats a Wiesco piston.
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Toomey T-3
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I have a cool head as well. Just need the specs to know how much to tighten
Thanks in advance20 ft lbs for both.
Do them in 10 then 15 then 20ft lb increments in a criss-cros pattern.
I take my cool head to 22ft lbs. Re-tourqe after a couple of heat cycles too.
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The stock configuration require (2) long studs in the front and (8) short studs around the bore. Thats how I have them on my cub. You could install all (10) of the longer studs and not use the short ones at all.
The longer studs have less thread depth then the short studs though, so they would probably "shank" out before they reached the bottom of the tapped holes in the cylinder, because the 8 tapped holes around the bores aren't counter bored for clearance like the 2 front ones are.
So the diameter between the threads on the longer studs, would need to be slighty turned down smaller then the major dia of the thread for clearance into the cylinder.
You don't need a lathe either, twisting them on a belt sander for a few sec's would work fine. Would only need to remove about .01 of material.
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I didn't have any issues with the stock ones when I put mine together.
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Hey guys, will pro design o-rings work on a noss cool head?
They sure will.
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Thanks for the responses. Some more questions!! Do either of these lock-ups alter the clutch pull at all? I read that the slingshot had a heavier clutch pull than the DD. That was for a Raptor set-up though.
The pics I've seen of the SS installed, you don't see the pressure plate. Does the SS replace the pressure plate or does it just go over/cover the pressure plate? I'm running 6 HD springs right now, will I be able to go back to stock springs for a lighter pull, after installing either of these lock-ups?
I still have a few weeks before I'll be in need of one, but I think I'm leaning towards the SS, since HJR sells them and he will be doing the porting and my duneable overide.
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Thanks guys, why is the leakdown so important? If I have an airleak, wont it show up in the idle?
Also, just started it and found out I am leaking coolant from my noss cool head, is there a good place to get the O-rings for cheap?
There's a ton of places that sell the o-ring kits. Try to purchase local or from somewhere in your region, so you don't have to wait more than 1-2 days.
I also torque the cool heads down to 22ft lbs too. I've had mine dribble coolant at 20ft lbs.
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Yep it's 12mm. I got my clutch apart right now and I just went and mic'd it.
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I'm getting ready to tear down the banshee to install an overide, lockup and have some drag porting done for our upcoming dune season.
I understand the basic principle of how the two "lockup" the clutch in their own way. I'd like to know the differences as far as adjustability or any of the pros and cons of each.
This is on a 421 cub that I like to generally dune on and line up and dune race for fun up the hills.
Thanks.
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Thats good to hear. Kev doesn't know it yet, but I'll be sending him my stocker cub for a nice port and hopefully just a hone, as well as some other goodies.
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:yelrotflmao:
First go grab a tape measure. Second, reach in your back pocket and pull out your wallet. Third, measure the thickness of it and tell us how fat it is. Then we can tell you how fast you can go. Its all about how much money you want to lay down and fast.IMO:biggrin:It don't take to much money into a banshee really to beat bolt on 450's in a drag race.
Hahaha that made me laugh. that was fuckin funny. :yelrotflmao:
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Honda 450 with a computer??
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Sounds like your magnets hit the pickup coil, thats why it's not sparking.
Whats the pickup look like?
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Happy birthday Tim :beer:
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I finally got my Banshee dynoed and it made dick for power.
(I stole this pic from a member)
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The power is measured at the PTO...... and it's on CPI In-frames on a type of gas (may not be what you're thinking). :geek:
Ok what kind of gas? Whats a PTO? A drive shaft off the sprocket?
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I am not really sure what you are questioning.......... That is nothing special by any means, but it definitely is good, and I cannot exactly repeat the run, so I got a little lucky. I can repeat a ~115hp run though.
That might of sounded kinda shitty.
I was trying to be funny and tell you to go back to bed because you were "dreaming"
I wouldn't ever question you, because I respect you as a very educated and respected member.
I've never seen #'s like that unless it was on alky with big carbs and out of frame's.
Is that at the wheels? Your red bike with CPI inframes on gas? Thats very impressive.
KFX450 vs. banshee
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
I don't know who ported your stuff, but if the porting is up to par, you should hand him his ass easily if you don't have issues hooking up.
KFX wins if you weren't ported.