tedd1
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Posts posted by tedd1
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Best price on CDI (don't want/need wires) shipped to 76067, please.
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Compression is around 180 ish each cylinder
It's a pro design head, domes were unmarked. But guy my friend bought it from ran race fuel and said they were custom cut. Squish was good and in spec.
Have Not done a leak down.
Timing is at +6 currently. Jeff built a drag ported 4 mill for me with custom race gas domes and at 190 ish compression told me to run mine at +7 so that's where we started with this one.
Found a cracked reed today (which were stock reeds) put in some vf3 and still sputters right before power band. Also ditched his Rickey stator for a stock one and now at least it'll get into power band. But stutters right before power band hits. Have adjusted needle clip and everything. I'm about exhausted lol
OK, sounds like you should be pretty close to me.
My next guess would be carb tuning. Time for a plug chop?
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Did you do compression and leak down after assembly?
Did you do a squish measurement?
What kind of head/domes are you using?
Where is your ignition timing set?
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...It made me sick when I Chipped my case...
Wait till you sling a chain on them $2k cases...
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The needles have nothing to do with fuel leaking out of the vents. You need to check the float level and also make sure the float isnt hanging or rubbing on the body of the bowl.
I agree, the Chariot bowls are tight around the floats. Make sure the floats aren't rubbing/sticking on the inside of the bowls.
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Ya, flipping the retainer would be low.
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I've seen worse damage repaired.
Of course, the results are directly related to the repairer's skills with aluminum...
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I pull the filtiers and plug the carbs as well as the exhaust.
If I think it will be there a while, I pull the carbs and plug the intakes.
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I bought that caliper. They are zero drag, meaning they have springs that push the pistons/pads away from the rotor. In as shipped condition, the banshee master cylinder does not have enough stroke to push the pistons/pads all the way to the rotor and they will not stop at speed. All that is needed is to shorten or remove the springs (what I did) and they work great.
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The lighting and ignition circuits are separate.
If you are sure everything else is in good shape, it is probably the CDI. I had one die recently.
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Yes, pop the clutch cover and you will see.
If that orings appears to be in place and intact, it is time to rebuild your water pump.
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There is a pipe that connects your water pump to the hose that goes up between the carbs. There is an o ring on that pipe between the cases.
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Yes, you could add bowls and pingle and lose the pump.
However, before you spend money, double check float level and needle valve.
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Read through >THIS<
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ok so I know the forged 10 mil crank can be made solid
But what about their 4 and 7mil cranks?
From what I gather TDR just uses the regular plain jane stock bearings and hot rod rods?
There is an option to upgrade to TZ bearing for a $50 price increase.
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...there is a red wire and a brown wire nutted together...
The B/W and B/R wires are on the switch side of the connector. On the bike side of the connector they are Black and Red/Black!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only brown wire on a banshee is on the switch side of the connector. The OP's statement led me to believe that he was working on the switch side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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The connectors are pretty easy to repair. Just look close and figure out how the retention barb works.
It will look/work something like these.
A small pick works well.
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Did those welded cylinders look something like these??
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Don't sand blast it. Use beads or hulls.
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Take the wire nut off the B and B/W. Grounding the B/W will shut the motor off.
Put it on the B/W and B/R where the key used to be. This should get power to the CDI.
The R and Br do not matter as they are connected to anything but the plug.
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I am running a RIS caliper.
What is the trouble with it?
Idleing
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
If your TORS caps have been replaced and your idle screws are on the sides of the carbs, you probably need to take the idle screws out and file some material off the bosses where the screws are installed.