dave5.0

That's dirt cheap for avgas. Can't believe your aren't detonating with that compression a d mixing it. I'd think that would be ragged edge for straight avgas. I'm not berry smart though.

Check the little local airports?

I'd prob get the one with the FMF pipes. Unless you can look at both and the top end is ok in the one with the dyno port. But I doubt it. Buy them both. Put the good parts together, make one running bike if possible. Then part the rest. Prob could make money for parts needed or trade parts you have for ones you need.

Took a set of toomys apart today. They had a heavy fiberglass type of sheathing/tubing packed down in them in a corkscrew pattern around the tube. This stuff was way heavier than the typical packing. Looked like it could be used as heat shielding over stingers or something. Where's this stuff come from?

You're so grumpy

Ill give $100 for the dirt wheels and tires...you got my number.

It's def a prob. Remove the boost bottle and smash it with a hammer. If the intakes are the ones with the nipples sticking up out of them go get some small diameter heater hose that size, some hose clamps, and a stock crossover tube. Put the short pieces of hose on the tube ends then secure them to the intakes. All done. Then work on whatever else is screwed up.

I'd pass on it man. Unless the dude is offering up cash. Or maybe pull the engine out of your truck and offer him the shell.

What I usually donis get a decent idle goin then tweak the a/f screws 1/4-1/2 a turn then let it sit for 30 sec or so and see of the idle changes. Start with both screws in the same position and turn them both at the same time. I usually go in and out and listen to it to see what it likes. Once that's done set the idle speed again. If the pilots are right size and you are somewhere between 1-2 1/2 turns on both a/f screws you should have a decent idle and it should be crisp off idle. Should start pretty easy too. You can rev it after that and see of it stumbles from idle to a rev. I'd put some pod filters on those carbs if they were mine also. Running without filters is askin for a tear down. If inwas running on a strip I'd prob just get bigger ones.

Ya they usually do here too. But ones in pieces don't. There's a nice very clean one for sale on here for 2200 with pipes and tires I think. Should be able to pick up a decent running bike for 2500. With a buncha goodies on it.

Unless its got a bunch of high end parts on it it ain't worth 2500. I just bought a stock running bike with a few good parts on it for a grand. That was dirt cheap, but it runs. Unless dude is planning to throw cash in I'd prob pass. Post some pics of both of them. That'll help us.

I remember that bike. Aren't you in oregon? Some cut paddle brats or some haulers would be a big improvement over the sand sharks. The molded stuff is usually heavier and doesn't hook as well. I went from new sand stars to cut and really light 6 paddle Paddle Brats and could tell a dramatic difference on my 450. Alot of improvement could be made on those tires and pipes. If you go to a more more top end pipe though you're going to lose bottom end and midrange. You'll be clutching alot more. It'll rip up too with better pipes which might be worth the loss to you. Was for me. I just had to slip it more and rev the piss out of it. Was like a totally different bike with better more dragish pipes, carbs, and vf3s.

Did you tweak the a/f screws till you got the highest idle then set the idle or just set them at two turns? That's what I usually do. If they're more than 2 1/2-3 turns out usually need a pilot change. If it revs in neutral pretty crisp from an idle they might be ok. If your stumble is coming a lil higher in the range you might try raising the clip on the needle a notch at a time and see if it clears up.

Need more details on your setup. Airbox? Pod filters? Might need next size up with the pilots. Aren't you ported running cpis? How's the a/f screws? How'd you set those?

Ah ok. Wheels are cool but don't want 4:1. Slop in the splines might not be bad since they'd be goin on a yamaha axle. But wouldn't know till they got here.

That's too bad. Looks like a clean bike.

Is it on CL?

Wheels and rear hubs?

On a stocker it gets routed up and around between the carbs and t's with the line that comes from the back of the motor by the rear mount. Then they both go up to the handle bars next to the throttle cable. That's gonna puke fluid out the way it is now. It needs to be up above the fluid level if nothing else.

Ah snap!

Ah that makes sense. Def bigger pilots. Prob a 30 I'd say. Then work on the mixture screws.

French? Canukistan? And ya the last post sounds right. If you have decent not cracked intake boots.

ENGRISH!! And punctuation!!

Ya I've not used it yet. Had it for a while. Just saw some toomey packing and it looked similar. Lil bit fluffier than the stuff I have but pretty close still. Might give it a whirl.

What about the Bondo fiberglass cloth? Could the core be wrapped with that stuff? Would it last or be any better?