Ozzy87

im 60 over right now so your saying i could just hone it out if everything measures out good and drop in some 70 over pistons?

boring and two new pistons is a pretty expensive way "just to be safe" I dont want to have to do this unless I know it's going to make a noticable difference. Because it runs alright now just doesn't seem to have all the power it should with my mods. and this was about the only reason I could think of (because I went through absolutley everything else at this point) where it would not be doing what it should. Thanks for the input, anyone else with ideas?

thanks for the input, I wasnt sure if having a big open chamber like that would somehow hamper or affect the flow of the exhaust

Alright, I think my bike is just getting a little tired or something, im running 19cc domes and pulling 165 psi per cylinder which i believe is good at around 1800 ft. over sea level. before I put the engine together 2 winters ago I measured the cylinder to piston clearence to be right at the edge of whats recomended possibly even a thousandth or 2 over. could this be my problem? But im still pulling 165 a cylinder. Any input helps, thanks

Hey guys, I have a set of fatties with power core 2 silencers which are gutted. Is this hurting me power wise? If I repack my silencers am i going to gain a few ponies? Thanks

Whats your compression? And what do the plugs look like after a main jet run? Does it hesitate or misfire or make any wierd noises? Sounds like your clutch could be toast or out of adjustment, if you need to replace it I would go with some kind of high performance one that can handle higher horse power. Is there any play in the clutch lever before you can feel it start working the clutch? Maybe you just have to loosen the tension on that a little so the clutches can engage fully. just my .02 cents

Sorry, about 1600 or 1800 ft over sea level. I live in northeastern/eastern wisconsin so it can be 20 degrees out one day and 80 and humid as hell the next. I have it jetted for around 50 degrees F. the plugs come out a nice cardboard color on a main jet run. After i'm out riding for awile it tends to idle high so i think i might be a hair lean on the pilots, but it doesn't bog when I gun it out of the hole. I'm kind of hesitant to run advanced timing because with the already high compression I dont want to run into detonation troubles.

Do any of you guys run bar risers on your bike? How high of a riser do you think i can run with out having any troubles with cables or hoses? I was thinking i would put on a 2 or 4 inch riser. Thanks

I'm running an airbox with about six 1 1/2in. holes drilled in the lid, k&n filter, boost bottle, boysen power reeds, 60 over cylinders, 165 psi compression, fattys, and power core 2 silencers. i'm running half 93 and 110 octane with 50:1 bel-ray. I have 25 pilots with air screws about 1 turn out, stock needles with clip in the center (I'm pretty sure). 400 mains, and stock air screws. She runs solid throughout the power band and has good power. I was just wondering if you guys had any suggestions to help me get that extra pony or 2 out of the ol' banshee.

Do you maybe have some dirt or sand stuck in the threads? I guess i would try screwing them in all the way just so they lightly seat and spray out the holes with brake cleaner and hit it with compressed air. Then maybe squirt a little oil or something in there to help it turn out. But clean off the oil again with brake clean so the screws dont vibrate out on you. just an idea.

I have it figured out. First i took the fuel line off and opened the petcock and the gas came pouring out so I stole the ign. coil from my buddys 98 and wow, she really rips now, like a banshee should!! Going to pick up a new coil tommorrow at the dealer, thanks for the input guys!! I cant wait to get out and ride

Mine did that to me once also except the flywheel actually came off. I picked up a new nut at the hardware store added some blue lock tight and torqued her back down. Working good since. Make sure your pick up coil is ok before you stick her back together.

Yes i'm running half 93 octane and half 110 octane with bel ray oil at 50:1. I would have thought that if I had a bad pick up gap that both cylinders would be missing? I also tried switching the spark plug leads but it still did the same thing. If i end up getting new leads though i would have to get the whole coil because they're built in, correct?

Ok, when I bought my bike it needed a few bugs wrung out. I have the engine pretty much up to par and running srtrong except for one thing i just cannot figure out. When im cranking down the road and really start pullin some high R's the right cylinder will start miss firing. It doesnt go down completley but just misses some while the other side is still screaming strong. any thing at a lower rpm and she pulls hard. I put an all new crank in this past winter (due to a bearing going down), I,ve been through the carbs multiple times with jetting and syncronizing, the exhaust is sealed up tight and has no blockage that i noticed. Switching spark plug leads doesnt help either so i dont think its electrical. the only thing It might be is that the outside bearing on that same side came apart on me and went up into my engine, i put in a new piston and dome and its pullin 165-170 psi, same as the other side. Could the bearing pieces have messed up my port timing, givin me a port job with some bad results? i also noticed on a main jet run that the right side is pulling just a hair shade darker then the left. So any thing you guys might have to help me out is greatly appreitiated cause im stumped, Thanks for the awsome site!!!

Thanks for the instructions BenBB, these will definatly come in handy

Thanks for the help guys, but my dealer said that going to thicker oil to stiffin the suspension was a wrong thing to do because then i might not get the full function of my shock unless im really pounding on them, he said it has to be controlled by valving, if you could e-mail me those papers you have for the A-T steelers it would definatley help me out.

Also, after I rebuild them do you think schock covers would be a good idea, or shouldn't i waste my money?

Hey guys, I have some works A-T Steeler front shocks with dual rate springs on the front, and a single rate works shock with remote rez and adjustable preload on the back. I am going to rebuild them and was wondering what you guys would suggest for oil viscosity and valving. The guy at my dealership said between 150-220 psi of nitrogen, and recomended between 3 and 5 weight oil, leaning more toward 3. I don't have them apart yet so i can't tell ya where the valving is at now. I ride mostly aggressive trail and woods, and do some occasional MX.