pitkendall

let me ask a serious ? and hopefully get a serious answer back when i was putting the cases back together i told the yamaha dealer i needed yamabond to put cases back together well when i got home in the book it says to use yamabond 4 and they gave me yamabond 5 i called and the guy said its the same just dif color but another yamaha dealer said theyed never heard of yamabond 5 and everything they use for case halfs was grey not black now did they give me the wrong stuff or what (HOPE NOT) :sad:

i tell u what this thing has me so confused and mad im glad :biggrin: i still have a reliable honda 4 stroke to ride :biggrin: junky ass yamaha 2 strokes lol

ha ha thats not funny that things expensive i was hopen it was the flux capicitor valve its cheaper but i guess this has everyone else confused too anyone have any tnt 4 sale cheap

well it wont stay runnin it wont idle at all and sometimes one cyl cuts out when u hold it at an idle with the throttle and if u go to try and ride it the dang thing just cuts out itll go about 15 20 feet and cut off not like its runnin outta gas or nothin just stop it stops so fast that if ur standin up it almost throughs u over the handle bars ive tryed everything carbs are clean and snyced im lost

ok new ? i was just lookin through the manual and noticed that the reeds have a reed stop now do u have to have them on ur reed block even with aftermarket reeds or do u take them off becouse my reed blocks dont have stops just wondering if maybe this is my problem

well fooled around with it some today and it still does the same stuff tried everything in the world so i took the head pipe off cus i noticed that it had liquide around the oring on the cyl and one part was pused out a lil so it was leakin exhaust well when i took it off a few lil green drops fell out so i got to lookin in at the piston and seen a lil drop on the side of the piston skirt so i had my girlfriend kick it over real slow and as the piston came down there was some more on the top so once again its lookin great for a blown head gasket :sad: so monday im gonna stop and buy a new gasket and try it again but this time ima leave the read cap off till it burps the air out also its .80 over 66mm bore and i measured the gasket and it measures 66.25mm so do u think they make a bigger gasket or somethin or is it good the way it is also do u think maybe i should step up to a coolhead or what will that fix my prob

well tore it apart lastnight and was pretty sure the head gasket was blown cus as i sprayed carb cleaner right were the 2 cyl come together like it would rev up for a few secs so when i did the head straight edge test in the manual it was warped pretty bad (probly from previous owner he was a big idiot it aperas so far) so i have my machine shop machine it put it back together with new gaskets and it fires right up :biggrin: but starts to rev high so i adjust the idle then start it to take it for a ride both cylinders firing and soundin good than the opposite cyl starts to cut out (was the left now its the right) so i check the carbs outta sync fix that and now its back to the same ol same o wont idol :mad: ok when u fill the rad with coolant do u have to leave the cap off while it runs for a while like the manual says cus both times of firen it up for the first time i didnt (had the cap on) and it blew the headgasket the first time and lookin good for the 2nd time could it be buildin 2much pressure tryin to move the airbubbles out and cus the cap bein on it blows the head gasket? :: :shoothead:

well i didnt get it fixed i bought a new intake and still the same damn thang starts kinda runs off that cylinder and as soon as u let off the throttle it dies man what else can it be heres my thoughts 1 does the tors wires have to be spliced together when the tors system is removed (mine are unpluged 2 blown head gasket will it still have as good of compression as it does with the head gasket blown and im not loosin coolant but i did spray the motor down with soapy water while runnin and bubbles formed around da threads of the head studs 3 maybe the case halves didnt seal all the way when i put them back together but i used plenty of yamabond 4 could i have maybe installed the stator side crank seal wrong i mean the clymer manual is kinda hard to understand on how to place the seals on the crank please any suggestions are VERY appreciated at this point ill try anything to get it fixed and ride

:biggrin: yeah id like to thank everyone that tryed to help me i believe i found my problem tore the carbs apart again today and noticed that the needle holder was in the wrong way were it blocked the lil hole (my fault) and a good buddy gave me a tip to check the float bowls and the previous owner had the bowls on the wrong carb ( i only dismantled one carb at a time) so that fixed 2 problems but after an hour or so of lookin for stuff and sprayin wd40 and finaly gas on every part of the intake side of the motor i finaly sat down on the ground and noticed my carb boot is riped almost all the way across the bottom so im gonna try and find some good ones and replace them and see what happens from there once agian thanks for all the help guys now to spend more money on this thing to hopefully fix it

thanks for the help man im goin to check some stuff tonight when i get home and call the place were i bought this thing at and see if he has a used carb i was gonna stop on the way home today and pick up some reeds but i think i may try the carb first i noticed lastnight that the cylinder that aint runnin is the one that had the bent rod in it when i bought the bike so im thinkin it was a preigsisting problem but im gonna fix it and hopefully knock on wood not do what the last owner did

you see thats y this thing has me so confused the slides are in the right carb cus i can see the lil silver dot in the window when i snyc them plus tryed to swap them already and they wont slide down in the carb all the way i dont have a ballance tube it has a boost bottle on it and it seems fine ive did the ol air leak test and cant find any air leeks it has spark in that cylinder it just doesnt run im so mad and confused at the same time im about to give up i thank everyone for helping and im trying everything everyone is suggesting but it doesnt fix the problem it cant be very many more things om sure someone has an idea what it is the we havent already checked

checked the reeds and they seem fine move ok and not stuck and nothing stuck in them and are u serious about the thermostat cus if u are i dnt think so im a neeb ti banshees remember but not to mechanics also i figured out tonight that the left cylinder is not runnin its got fire and 125 psi pressure but wont run till u rev it alil or put your hand over the carb for a few seconds ive cleaned the carb like 5 times already its so clean u can eat outa it ive cleaned the jets they are clear everything is clean totaly dismantled the carb so its clean moved the clip from were the previous owner had it on the very last notch to the fourth from the top so what now what could it be

oh yeah forgot to ask if maybe it could be my reeds i dont know what kind they are or anything i bought the bike with the motor tore apart cus a bent rod so theres not much i know besides what i did to it also i have toomey t4s i think and the filter is in the factory air box

ok well i done a compression test and the rings still are not seated yet not enough run time but it had 125 in one cylinder and 130 in the other cylinder ok for your questions i took the rad cap off and i can see the coolant movin through the radiator as it runs ?1 the hoses swell within a few minutes of starting and they dont swell much at all really maybe just old ?2 i have rebuilt the whole motor with wiesco 80 over pistons and all new gaskets and seals ?3 i am not loosing any coolant at all ?4 i torqued the head in steps and in sequance as the manual says to do my mods are wiesco 80 over pistons pro desighn impeller k & n filter tors removal kit and thats about it i have the air screw adjusted 2 and 1/2 turns out with 280 25 jets and the carbs are synced as well as u can get them without that vacume thingy the idle screw is adjusted all the way in and it still wont idle at all ive cleaned the carbs 4 times now totaly dismantleing them even the needle jet tube and still no change i think i may need to rejet real bad also one pipe is blowing more smoke than the other thanks for any help at all i hope i have answered all ur ?s

thanks for the help it takes a few minutes for them to get hard and the radiator keeps pressure for a while too all the mods i have are what i listed 80 over wisecos billet impeller toomey t4s k & n filter tors removal kit and thats bout it for the motor

ok just did a total rebuild new crank new wiesco 80 over pistons and all well after kickin till my leg was tired pull started it to get it to fire up and after fighting with it forever to stay runnin found that i too had forgot to hook up the lil rubber hose that connects the two carbs but now to my problem now that the bike runs (only with choke on ) the radiator hoses kinda swell and get real hard is this normal i put in a pro desighn impeller so i think it should be ok this is my first shee so it may be normal dnt know oh yea im runnin 280 25 jets is that good or were do i need to start with the jets maybe thats y itll only run with the choke on thanks for any help

im interested in trade if u still have it