jayzx10r

I have the (oiled, of course!!) 3-3/8"x6" K&Ns and run the Uni foam wraps dry over them. I'm trying to find out if I should run what I have or change some aspect of my filtration system.

What setup is best for clamp on filters used in the sand? Jay.

Bam!!!

10W30 is not recommended for motorcycle trans/wet clutch applications because they are an "energy saving" oil. ANY container that says that on it should NEVER have it's contents used in your wet clutch application vehicle!!

Just remember a stock swinger/sprocket Banshee needs 104 links!!

This appears to be a topic that has little interest to most of us. Unless I hear differently, I'll let it go.. Thanks, Jay.

They sold for $85!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I use AVgas 100LL. Depending on your compression you can run it straight or mixed with pump premium. Most people find octane booster to increase performance as significantly as a boost bottle.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...910170&rd=1

Actually, your auction number is 260161811746. Of your 19 posts so far, 14 were to sell your goods and 2 were to JUSTIFY USING CAPS BECAUSE IT'S TOO MUCH OF A HASSLE TO EXTEND YOUR PINKIE OCCASIONALLY.... Welcome to the HQ. If you are gonna primarily use this site to sell your goods, you might consider a Premium Membership purchase. BTW: Starting bid is $100.00!! :thumbsup:

I probably should have been more specific.... I was thinking about the MotionPro cables...the LW vs. the CW model. The CW is a stock replacement with a Coil Wound housing...just like stock. The LW version is constructed a bit differently. The cable structure is wound longitudinally...the strands of wire are more parallel with the cable to reduce sponginess. Plus, the cable is encased in a PE (Teflon?) liner so I'd think it would slide easier under load. This is the one I had in mind when I said "the more expensive one"!! I can't believe you didn't follow me on that one!!! :biggrin: :biggrin: Guess I should have asked: Has anyone tried the LW cable? Thanks, Jay.

I could do that...How much do you need?? I could either mail or paypal you the jing.... I'm in San Diego...92117. Thanks, Jay.

It' hard to hold my beer after a long ride. Since it can't be me, I'll blame my bike!! My clutch pull is pretty tough...do you have 3 springs laying around?? Has anyone tried the more expensive model replacement clutch cable...is it worth the extra $? Actually, my chick can barely pull the clutch...trying to make it easier for her... I think she would prefer an automatic...like her preference in pistols :cool: Jay.

So what needle should I run in my Blaster? Just bought a Toomey B1 pipe kit with pipe/silencer/filter/jets/12-1"air box filters... :shrug: Waiting for it via snail mail... BTW: I believe Toomeys General Manager is selling Banshee Pipe Blems (T5 and T6) as well as Blaster Pipe B1 Blems on eBay. Her member name is quadtrippin and I've seen some pretty good deals come out of her auctions...FYI. Do an advanced search "by seller" using her member name and check it.... I'm gonna try for some T5s I think :thumbsup: Jay From San D.

Here is a triangle flag for 'ya.... And a different font with quotation marks version: Call this rectangle #2 for voting purposes.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Thanks for the info, guys. That's kinda what I figured. Even a YZ125 is running a 38MM carb!!

Here is some info I pulled from the Toomey Website regarding carb sizing. They claim that the stock carbs are best and that larger carbs are ineffective because of the poorly designed too small reed cage. Since a lot of people consider T5s to be the best pipes, wouldn't this probably be accurate as well? I mean, I agree that the smallest carb that will allow you minimal restriction at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) would be the best choice for the reasons they expound, but are we truly limited primarily by the reed cages? Personally, I've always been skeptical of those anemic transfer ports... What changes can be done to the cages to flow better? Does it offer significant improvement? I've got Boyesen reeds on a 4mil dune port. I'm running 33PWKs...a lot of us are running 35s...some larger. Here is a cut and paste from the Toomey site about RZ carbs...same motor: Carburation The most frequently asked question is: What about bigger carbs? I would like to take a moment and talk about that. You must remember that your RZ is being transformed from a strangled, asthmatic, EPA special to nearly road race specifications with just the installation of Toomey Racing Pipes. Obviously, the carburetion requirements are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Since there is a power increase of some 50% when using your new Toomey Pipes, you might think this is quite a demand on your stock carbs, huh? Not really. What we have to remember is that a carburetor is an airflow / velocity device; therefore you would want the highest volume flow AND the highest speed through the carb at the same time. It is a balance. Personally, I would like to see the smallest possible carb on your bike, not the biggest! Emotions aside, the facts are, that the stock carb can out flow the stock reed valve almost two to one, so why make the carb bigger? All that happens, when you do, is the air flow slows, and it makes it much harder to atomize the fuel droplets nearly as fine as with a high speed flow, making them harder to burn therefore contributing less to power. The net result is less power and range. So you can see that there is really no need for bigger carbs when they are not the thing holding you back. The reeds are. Boyeson reeds help quite a bit and are definitely the best thing we have found for the stock engine. The reason is, they have better flow characteristics from bottom to top, and have better reed control than anything else on the market, including those six petal reeds that some people offer. (Boyesen Reeds are available from us for only $49.95. Ask for Part # 603.) Unless you are willing to spend nearly $1,000.00 on bigger reeds, and the accompanying extensive port work to get them in there (and I mean BIG, like YZ 125 reeds) you have no need for bigger carbs. We have the dyno tests to prove it. We tested 28, 30, 32 and 34mm carbs on the dyno and the best combination for peak power, as well as power range, was the stock carbs with our jet kit. The reason is simple. The air volume being drawn into the engine is a fixed amount determined by the pipe and ports, and does not exceed the maximum flow capacity of the stock carbs. You will get slower air-speed through bigger carbs with a proportional rise in air pressure due to the Venturi effect. Fuel atomization is not as efficient as in a smaller, lower pressure, high speed air flow . The poorer atomization burns less efficiently producing less power. >>>>Back to me<<<< Are we just wasting money on bigger carbs?? Thanks, Jay.

I'd consider it, but without a boost bottle....I'm not interested!!

Still don't have a new set of pipes....anyone have anything to add??

I'll ALWAYS admit when I don't know something......and I have ZERO experience with the override trannys. Your post makes sense to me!!

And the transmissions in our Banshees are from that same '70s vintage...RD350/400s!! :yelrotflmao: I'm not saying not to run ATF...just recognize that all you are really choosing to do is to run 20W oil instead of the recommended 40W. It isn't really the same to contrast freeway mileage lubricant use against an OHV environment, especially when the manufacturer is more concerned with CAFE regulations and maximizing their theoretical "Highway MPG" figures than the longevity of your vehicle. They try to flatten out the jumps and berms on the freeway!! Good point though about modern vehicles being designed for the thinner oil. Would you put that '70s 85W hypoid in your modern vehicle's transmission when ATF is called for? If not, then why would you put ATF in your ATV '70s trans?? Respectfully, what I don't understand...and enlighten me if you can...is if you want to run 20W oil, OK. Why not run 20W engine oil...something designed for lubrication, instead of ATF...designed as a hydraulic/jack oil? Maybe I just have too much time on my hands...

That is an enlightening observation!! So maybe we should concentrate on a non-legal group flag that we would run in conjunction with the state approved flag....or find another manufacturer. Does anyone know of one?? I'd be happy to run a red, yellow, or green flag color and position it near the base of the flag pole. Whatever color is good to contrast against the Blue and Black on the flag. I don't want my flag draggin like the one in the photo!! Thanks, Jay.

I'm thinking that is exactly how it will be done. We should have 2 versions: one a rectangle, the other a triangle. I think the layout as above would be great!!

Here is a flag design approved by the manufacturer. I' like the one with the logo centered but think the YamaLogo needs to be larger. I also want to change the font for the screen name (top-right). You can insert your screen name there If you'd like!! You can get the flag in any color, but I think it will look good on orange or red. Let me know what you want and I'll let you know when you can order one or five!! Jay.

You are just looking at it the wrong way.... It's not a "tax"...it's a "fee!!" They say that increasing taxes is illegal, but collecting additional fees is OK. :shoothead: I wanna write off my ISDRA Pass on my tax return!!