RagunCajun

Yes I do.

Perhaps a chariot throttle may be better Clyde. Double the price but it's proven. Or you can machine a light weight version.

I would say replace the throttle parts so it works as it should. I'd hate for it to act up and cause an injury.

While on this subject, is the reason the chariot/cuervo able to full open larger carbs due to a longer arm in the throttle housing or is the arm able to go farther? Or perhaps a combo of both. If anyone wants to trade me a stock thumb throttle lever for my Cascade, let me know. I'll use that in the mean time until I can do a chariot or cuervo. Ima Try this Honda junk out as is in the mean time since I have to run a tank of fuel easy to brake in the new top end. Let's not get into whatever brake in procedure you do. I'm listening to my builder. End of story on that. First time I heard he's a fraud. Now I'm aware to ignore what he says. When he mentioned his Honda knowledge in a previous thread, no one commented negative. But like I said, lesson learned. Thanks for the support.

No. I wanted to know why you told me it would work before I spent $50. Here's a screen shot of that pm before I wasted my money.http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/Screenshot_2016-06-07-11-08-28_zpsazcm27dl.png

Yeah well the guy who did all the work closed his doors for good a month ago. I was going to bring more stuff but oh well. I've never heard of that, got a link? And any benefit to it? I'm not on billet stuff just for looks. I may get a bullet kicked start lever because it seems it will be easier on my feet. The stock lever kills the arch in my foot.

Sure. I just finished installing it. I forgot about modding the inside nipples from the front circular plate before installing due to the lockup. So i did that. http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/polished%20cover%20install%206-6-16%201_zpsz8y9vkfn.jpg Then reinstalled new seals, gaskets and water pump bearing. That's buttoned up: http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/polished%20cover%20install%206-6-16%203_zpscd9gzkbf.jpg Then installed the cover, TQ'ed that down, then put on the brake master, brake pedal and foot peg then put the radiator hose on. http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/polished%20cover%20install%206-6-16%208_zpshxsr0gdq.jpg And that's it for this evening.

My fireball racing long travels use the elka 19.5ish long shocks for the front. It's a monster truck clearance mixed with a pterodactyl front wing span compared to stock shocks/arms.

Is the gear spread too bad in general to set it up to launch in 1st instead of in 2nd gear? I used to have my N-down 1-5 set up for first gear launches. Worked well but I wasn't making the power most are. I personally don't care to lesson the weight just to get it to launch with a shorter ratio. I rather the clutches not slip since it's just for fun racing.

I sent him a pm again telling him to explain in this thread why we have to cut ours. In the mean time, ill install the polished clutch case i got from Phelps

Out them?

Can someone explain how it can possibly be my error of the throttle not working? This is a quote from pm from a person who is the Honda expert or whatever who I will NOT name. That makes no sense to me. The throttle was bought new. Due to mechanical limits, it would not open 39's. So I had to make the throw longer to increase its mechanical limit. I didn't mod anything before I tried to see if the carbs would fully open.

The carbs already have easier springs. I didnt like my cascade stock throttle extension since my thumb had to reach too far making me release my grip. I'm going to look for a stock thumb for cheap and use that. I cant do an aftermarket piece right now.

thanks guys.

I did some wrenching on the bike today. Do not get a honda throttle for some 39's. http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02200_zpsnpjk4k6a.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02201_zpsar3uidhd.jpg That's how much metal i had to take out for the 39's to open all the way.

No problem. I wont care to ride until next weekend. I appreciate the help. http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/20160605_151634_zpskuybpbdd.jpg

Let me try to circle it with MS paint. It's the metal thin plate behind that gear. Give me about 30min..

I made a video of how much it moved. I also have a picture of where it seems to have word the little metal tab in the back. It's been about 4-5 weeks since i started up the bike and i think i heard a noise while letting it idle so i drained the fluids and checked for anything loose. Maybe it's just normal engine noises but i want to be sure. Of course i didnt think to video it before hurring to tear it down while i had time. the worn area which i dont know if it was preexisting. http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/20160605_151634_zpsbemkmysn.jpg video of play https://youtu.be/eoweq1DSJNc edit* nothing is loose or worn etc. I may just be paranoid.

radiator hose and fuel line from Napa. I didnt feel a need to by fancy silicone hose for far more money.

after just spending an insane amount on a high hp build, id say suspension. Or at least save up for it. Always keeps extra funds aside for a catastrophic failure.

I don't see you beating a ~100hp raptor with a 4/10mil serval if the raptor is set in right. They just out the power down better. My 521 serval is nasty in terms of power even though it is smooth and not violent. You looking at around $7k for a 10mil ported serval. Mine made 109/57 I think. Then there's suspension so you can turn the thing and get power to the ground. I started around $2500-$3000 for my 421 serval build when I started called builders. Decided to go 521 and I'm well over 10k. It adds up very very fast to do it right the first time. And I'm still not done.

posting that wont help. If you ignore that crap, you get GOOD answers and saves you thousands on a build. Dont let that stuff get you salty.

I dont even use the arrow on the cases. I just make sure i have a little slack on the clutch lever. I've got a slingshot and cascade pancake bearing so the arrows are useless to me.

yup. Zero complaints. amazing bottom and mid. great top end too. The bike makes so much power, i really dont need to be in the power band, ever for what i do. Ill have some video in a moth or so.

use a big level to get camber close tie to heavy things together with a string line for toe. match the back. back should be zero degrees.