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chevrolet banshee

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Posts posted by chevrolet banshee

  1. First off..... If your floats are set too high, what symptoms are you gonna see? Cause right now it takes about 10 kicks, then it fires right up. Once it starts and warms up it'll start real easy (one kick, no throttle) BUT if I wait 30 minutes or so, same thing, 10 kicks to fire. ADDITIONALLY there is a lot of black soot/oily shit dripping from the exhaust pipes. This all started happening after swapping the float bowls to the CORRECT carbs, and also the slides. Which nmeans they were both in there 180* backwards. A buddy of mine said I probably accidentally bent the float arms when I had the carbs off. This makes it fill up too much and leak fuel into the cylinder and those first 10 kicks are just to get the excess fuel out and the oily black soot is it all getting burned up in the exhaust. Also now when I'm riding and after a run thru the gears or powerband it'll sputter on the way back down to idle.... Which tells me jetting or just too much fuel (rich). What do yall think.

     

    Now to the fun stuff.... I'm trying to spend my tax return before I get it.... I wanna go with a stage 2 port either by herr jugs or FAST. Right now I have delta 2's and fmf fattys. .020 over. Hot rods crank with about 20 hrs on it. I have a cool head and 20 cc domes thatll go in it too. The thing I'm having problems with is what carb set-up to go with. I'm thinking 28mil flatside mikunis with billett intakes. But I've heard 33/34 keihins. From past exp I like keihins better. That being said I think they'll be too big for the port job I want (which would be stage 2 (herr or FAST). I really just want an easy to start reliable bike making about 50-60 hp. Any help would be good. I'm willing to spend 1-1.5K on the motor.... Carbs, intakes, port job, timing plate (???) MAYBE a set of T-5's..... Just like the sound.... Powder coated black FMF fattys need to go....

     

     

    What youll probily want is a set of 32mm pwk's with a boss intake and some v force reeds a dune/play port from fast with your cool head and some t5 pipes and youll be set. as far as the bad startind/running always start with the plugs (seams like its always the simple things) your probily to rich to. when its parked not running do you smell fuel? thats with the petcock on. if so that night be you have float issues, but proper jetting will make a diffrance in starting. hope i helped

     

    Chevshee

  2. I dont really want to but i think im going to sell my banshee. its a 1996 banshee, resent rebuild .30 over, it has 35mm pwk's knock off k&n pods boss intakie, boisen reeds, fmf fattys and only year old sliencers. its got pro taper bars and a twist throttle. cut front and rear fenders. stanless steel +2 axle its got the chevy elmblem cut into stanless for the grill. it runs pretty good i just put a transmission in it a year ago. 15/41 gears it gets up and moves still and pretty fast. it does need a seat cover. i want to sell it so i can get a dirt bike. i love my banshee but i have more fun on a dirt bike. i may change my mind still. i would be interested in a trade for a dirt bike or a car/pickup, let me know what you got.

     

    $2200.00

     

    034.jpg

    Chevshee

  3. I zip tie my filters together and they clear my CPIs x2

    cheap easy fix

    I guess i dont understand how you zip tie k&n filters? they are melting from touching them and smashing a good set of filters just dont make sense to me.

     

     

    You don't have to spend $50 bucks on header wrap. I wrapped exhaust heat shield around my stingers. It works great and only costs $10 bucks a sheet. You will only need one sheet to effectively wrap both stingers if need be. I personally wouldn't zip tie my filters together. I would think that would add stress to the boots and eventually cause them to crack. Thats just my opinion though. How are you burning plug wires?

    I burn spark plug wires on my pickup alot thats why i was gonna get the header wrap, and just cut off a chunk for my banshee. but rocky mountain sells heat shield, i don't know if that would work it might melt the glue if i stick it on my stingers?

  4. hey thanks man .. im going to get rid of the stock duels and probably hit some 34s. and would like to get a 4mill crank .. whats the price look like for that?? and what does the lighten flywheel do?? thanks

     

    Lightened flywheel lets the motor spool up quicker and all that junk.

     

    Chevshee

     

    oh and i payed $300 for my carb's throttle cable and jets, 25 for air filters, 125 for the boss intake.

  5. A shift star would be pretty simple to do if you have some simple hand tools and a 32mm socket for the clutch. All you need to do is drain your fluids and take off the clutch cover. then take off the clutch. be sure to remember how it came apart, in the proper order. take out the kick start gear and the shift shaft. then you'll be able to see the shift star, take out the old one give it to me, and put in your new one. reassemble and have fun.

     

     

    Chevshee

  6. my buddies got a banshee and he was racing his friend on grass and his friend has a honda cr450f dirtbike and they were neck and neck the whole way, the shee would win a few and the dirtbike would win a few, both are good riders and the banshee rider weighs at least 250lb, i havent seen many atv vs dirtbike drags but i know for a fact a few dirtbikes i had would smoke one but this 1 must be pretty quick, any thoughts?

    I have a friend with a 2003 yz250, not stock buy any means. i think it had v-forse 3 reeds, jetted, fmf gnarly pipe and silencer, and maybe a K&N filter. 4 out of 4 times i won. he got me off the start but i would walk buy him. and it was about the speed of a walk difference. i know my banshee goes pretty fast but i don't know compared to like a 450 or 700.

    I would say that's pretty good tho.

     

    Chevshee

  7. What I was sayin, it sounds to me like the machine shop is tryin to cover up they're fuckup. That's why I said to mic the pistons. To show the shop that they ain't different sizes.

     

    What size were the old pistons/bore? Was there a lip on the top of either cylinder wall?

     

    Ok ya that makes sense. ya thats what i wood do, that wood fuck them if they wear the same and the bore was different.

     

     

    Chevshee

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