silencethevoice

This not a genuine cool head, but a clone... It looks very nice though, and is just as functional.. It is in good shape, but does have some normal scratches from being installed / removed a few times.. I have 2 sets of domes a 21cc set and a 20cc set... Both are definitely in usable shape, but the 20ccs did have a little detonation happening, so they aren't exactly factory perfect.. But, they are still okay to run. I have 2 full sets of O-rings included.. I have 18 Acorn Nuts/Washers included... I have ONLY 8 studs included... So you will need to get ahold of stud kit, or find a hardware store to get the missing ones from.. I am asking $200 shipped for the whole lot. Pics here: http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Head/DSCI0084.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Head/DSCI0085.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Head/DSCI0086.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Head/DSCI0089.JPG

I have a set of cylinders that were ported by Sundahl Racing... They are in need of a bore/hone job at .050 over.. Other than that they are ready to rip... They are a very mild port, but looks can be deceiving.. The bike these came off of definitely hauled some ass.. I am asking $250 shipped. Here are the pics: http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders1/DSCI0044.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders1/DSCI0049.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders1/DSCI0052.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders1/DSCI0060.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders1/DSCI0061.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders1/DSCI0063.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders1/DSCI0064.JPG

I have a set of Gorr Mo' Power Everywhere Ported cylinders. They have been bored .020 and I will include a new set of Wiseco Pro Lites, rings, bearings and clips to match.. Pics below: http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0071.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0073.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0074.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0079.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0080.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0081.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0082.JPG http://presstimecolor.com/forsale/Cylinders2/DSCI0083.JPG They are in perfect condition, the only thing is, they may need a slight deck to get them lined up exactly.. When I had them installed, my squish was about .008-009 different from side to side.. I just opted to use gaskets to shim the one side, and the setup ripped! I am asking $450 shipped for the whole setup... They have cool head studs already installed..

What do you mean by "run the gas out of the banshee's carbs" .. Do you mean you ran out of gas? If so, what conditions were you in when you ran out of gas? WOT? Just idling.. I would do a compression test and see what comes up... There's a small chance that if you were running it hard when you ran out, you could have damaged something... The bike will start to lean out as the bowls are emptied.. You're e-brake isn't on is it? Check out your compression and post the results..

LOL! When I went to alba the first time that's what I thought I was getting (I live nearby like Bansh-eman).. Thought I wouldn't mind paying a few bucks more for the support of actually being able to talk to someone who knew their shit... No F*ing way do those idiots know what they are talking about it when it comes to banshees.. I too only go there when they have something that I can't get anywhere else locally.. Otherwise, do your research here and order cheap online.. Or talk to one of the many other great guys around the country (TDR, Cascade, FAST) ..

I would take it somewhere else! He's telling you it leanedout when you ran that same jetting for a year and a half? Unless there was an air leak that you didn't know of, something else has to be going on.. Stupid question but, have you taken a good look at your radiator itself to make sure it's not corroded? There doesn't seem to be a whole lot to go wrong in the cooling system of a banshee... If all ports are cleared, radiator is good, water pump is good, jetting is good.. There isn't much else that could be causing it to overheat.. Good luck and keep us posted..

I am pretty sure none of those would be the right size... Banshee STD bore size is 64mm and none of those go that small.. Man, if it were my bike I would just spend a few hundred bucks and get it done right.. Give yourself at least a few seasons of good peace of mind.. :thumbsup:

Oh, I just saw the name Sandgren, and Yuba City and pretty much thought it had to be him... Maybe his brother or something? Oh well, looks like a very nice bike though... Wish I had that kinda dough. :laugh:

That guy is definitely on this site, 03YubaBanshee is his name .. I traded him a 38mm 2 to 1 carb setup(maybe the one on that bike) for a pair of 33s.. I can definitely say he seems to be a real straight shooter, everything I got from him was just as expected. Very nice guy, and a good seller. :thumbsup:

If it were mine I'd advertise it for at least 4000 obo ... This is coming from someone in SoCal, where there is definitely an over-abundance of banshees for sale.. For 3 grand, I would think someone would be getting a steal of a deal.. I would always start a little higher than you are looking to get, because you know some fucker is going to try to offer you like 2500 for it.. What is forcing the sale? I know it's hard to sell something like this for so little, I wish you were closer! I just bought one a few months ago. . I feel your pain! Good luck! :beer: Edit: I just realized you said no title! What would it take to get the title cleared up? I know that is worth a grand in itself...

Sorry guys! My brother in law has decided to keep the bike... I had a streak of bad luck with our banshees, and he has since decided they are unreliable.. Oh well, if he wants to eat sand for the rest of the season, let him... :beer: Thanks anyways..

I would think after a fresh rebuild and a new port job you would really need to start over with your jetting, needles and carb adjustments.... Make sure everything is in sync, re-adjust your idle screws, then experiment with clip settings to find the best spot. Then work on your mains witha plug chop. If you are sure everything is adjusted as it should be on the pilot circuit/needles, you may have just lost something with the porting job... From what I have read, porting seems to be a bit of trade off sometimes.. How extreme is the porting ?

For stock parts, go to http://www.mrcycles.com . I don't think I've found anyone cheaper, and the service is really good too.. Just remember, to get stock replacement parts it takes these guys a few extra days to get them in their own hands before they can ship em out to you... Good luck ...

I figured it out! Turns out it was just a bad carb.... I went ahead and bought a brand new 34 pj and after a little tuning, shee runs great! :thumbsup: I bought the setup used, and I guess you never really know what you're gonna get.. But it runs really strong now. It's got a really strong bottom/mid range hit.. Just waiting for another day to do a plug chop.. Just wanted to say thanks once again for everyone who took the time to help out..

I would also like to know what the best way to check float height on a PWK is... I've had people tell me a lot of different things.. Some people say it should be even across with the carb turned over, some people say you set it as high as you can without spillage... The keihin docs say to turn the carb until the needle seat just touches the float tab, then measure... Anyone know what the best way is?

Well, I am starting to near my wits end with this thing.. I went ahead and pulled the intake apart today just to check the reeds.. They looked fine, but I replaced them with some Boyesen's anyways. Still no change.. When the motor is cold, it will start with no choke needed. When it is warm, still starts fine, just the thing really puts out some smoke, smells rich, and has really terrible off-idle response. I have tried playing with the clip a little, but my main problem seems to be with the pilot/idle circuit so I haven't done too much there yet... I am not totally new to tuning these things, I've tuned dual pwk's before, and I even ran a single 38 on another bike and got it to run decent.. Just this thing will not seem to clean up in idle-1/8th no matter what I do.. Just for shits, I replaced the needle with a CGN that I had laying around from another bike. That really seemed to clean up the idle and off-idle response. But of course, then my mid-range was pretty screwed up (too lean).. :shoothead: Could it be the pipes that are throwing things off? I was told by the guy I bought it from that they were 1st generation Toomeys.. They look like toomeys, just very old.. Should I try and order up a DEN needle or something, or is there anything I can do ignition wise to deliver a hotter spark? Please help.. I really don't have much else to try.. Thanks in advance. Ryan

What do you guys think about switching to another needle so I can get my pilot leaned out? Like maybe an M or N diameter? Is that pretty much unheard of, or should I just live with it being rich?

Sorry... the mods are: Trinity CV Intake with single 33 Toomey Pipes (not sure exactly which ones, they are really old) +4 Timing advance Stock Reeds Stock bore/porting K&N Airfilter with stock airbox (lid removed) Elevation is about 300 ft (temp is about 70 degrees) The jetting as it stands is a 38 pilot and a 180 main.. Clip is on the 4th from the top... The needle is a DEK. So far, I have checked the float level, swapped ignition coils, and tested for airleaks using a propane torch.. Cleaned the carb out really good twice now.. The bike just seems to totally run rich.. The best throttle response I have gotten out of it is at about 4 1/2 - 5 turns out, and even then it still is a little boggish on the bottom end.. Pulling the choke out nearly stalls the bike, and my idle speed screw has to be set pretty far in to keep it idling.. After poking around a bit and laying into it, it is running fairly strong in the mid range to top end, it just has a real bad flat spot at around 1/8 to 1/4 throttle.. Do you guys have any other suggestions?

I haven't gotten it broken in yet, so I can't really lay into it too much.. But it does seem a little sluggish from 1/8 - 1/2 throttle... You say it could be an air leak... That sort of confuses me, because I always figured an air leak would cause a very lean condition (as I've seen in other posts) ??? Can you please explain further? Thanks..

The bike's pretty much stock, only mods are +4 timing, Toomey pipes (they're some old ass toomeys, like 1st generation or something), and open air box with K&N... I am at about 300ft elevation, and the temp is in the 60s... I just need to take it off, clean the shit out of it and check the float level.. I'll check it out tonight and let you guys know how it goes..

Not yet, no.. But it usually seems like when the float level is set too high, it pretty much spills gas.. I know some guys actually set there floats that way, they run them up until they start to spill.. Then back them off... But I will definitely check it to rule out the possiblity.. I've got a spare coil I can test with.. So maybe I'll swap it out to see if it makes a difference.. I haven't had a chance to test ride it yet... It's just so damn rich, I'm sure it's not going to be running up to potential.. The thing smokes me out of my garage everytime I start it.. :laugh: I'll let you guys know once I've had a chance to test some more stuff.. Thanks for the input so far..

Just rebuilt the top end on my dad's bike... I removed the TORS and installed a 2 to 1 with a single 33 at the same time. The bike is stock porting with stock reed cages and Toomey pipes.. For some reason it seems to be running rich no matter how lean I seem to jet it.. I started out at at a 50 pilot, and have gone all the way down to a 38 and it still seems too rich. The mixture screw doesn't really seem to have much effect, and the idle speed screw seems like it has to be pretty far in to keep it idling.. Anyone have any ideas?

I just had the same exact problem after installing my twist throttle kit.. Bike wouldn't idle, ran ultra rich.. Kept bangin my head against the wall.. And finally realized they were backwards in there..

I was wondering the same thing, but as it turns out my cylinders have been cut.. I measured it out today, and one side was cut by 20 thousandths, and the other side was cut by 30 :: Guess you never know what your gonna get when you buy stuff used.. I'm just going to use another set, and while I'm at it I am going to get the crank welded... Just for the peace of mind.. I've had far too much trouble with this bike already and have got to do it right.. Thanks for all the advice.

I guess I will go ahead and weld the sucker, don't want to have it on my conscience... Can you guys recommend anyone to send it to?