ferociousllama

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I think the stock banshee lights are really wimpy. The housings for the set that came on my bike are all broken and were actually electrical taped together so the housings wouldn't separate. I looked into replacement parts and entire new headlight buckets. I also have a Livewire LED light up whip that I want to install because I have had it for a couple years and haven't installed it yet because I haven't done the DC conversion. I have also looked into HID lights because my bike will be DC anyway but they're expensive and the bulbs don't last long compared to LED, and I'm trying to do the DC change without having to buy a battery. My plan is to do the DC conversion, then install my whip. Then to fix the wimpy light problem I'm going to install one or two Vision X Solstice 10 watt led lights. The whip uses 7.2 watts at maximum, so my total wattage requirement is going to be less than 28 watts not including the tail light. For now the tail light is staying stock. So my power requirements are modest and the stock stator should handle the load with no problems. Also I'm trying to get away without running a battery. I have searched and searched and only found one single post from one person who sold vision x lights who said he heard people run the solstice lights without a battery. Has anyone actually run the solstice lights without a battery? Will the stock tail light, 2 10 watt led headlights, and a 8 watt LED whip run off the stock stator without a battery? Also if anyone knows where to get a deal on vision-x lights let me know. Thanks everyone.

I wouldn't worry. Just clean the rusty area, sand all the paint and rust off until you have clean metal. If the rust looks extensive (big holes that weaken the overall strength of the frame) look into getting the area replaced with non-rusty metal at any fabrication shop, or check out ebay, they have frames all the time for a few hundred bucks. If the metal looks ok and the area is clean, has no rust, and is dry, hit it with some rattle can primer and paint and you're good to go.

"2 strokes good, 4 strokes bad"

What kind of oil does everyone run in their banshee? I bought my bike and it had gear oil in the transmission that the guy had just put in so I took it on a few trips and everything was fine. So after a couple trips I decide to change the oil and the manual said to put in regular motor oil in the transmission....at that's what my friend said who also has a banshee. So, I put the motor oil in and take my bike for a ride. After a while it overheated, WTF. I'm just looking to hear what everyone runs so I can run what everyone else runs so my bike doesn't overheat again. The oil was the only difference on my bike between the last trip where it didn't overheat and where it did overheat.

What kind of oil do you guys run in your engines?

I rotated the pressure plate and like magic it started working (at least as good as it did before I took it all apart. I ordered new clutch discs and friction plates, they should be here soon and my bike should be running good after I get them installed. Thanks for all your help everyone!!!

I rotated the pressure plate and like magic it started working (at least as good as it did before I took it all apart. I ordered new clutch discs and friction plates, they should be here soon and my bike should be running good after I get them installed. Thanks for all your help everyone!!!

The ball is in there, I made sure. When I was putting it back together it seemed like there was no pressure pushing the clutches together. I didn't think anything of it at the time but I think that has something to do with it.

A few weeks ago I went riding and part way through the day my bike wouldn't go forward anymore. It runs and revs, but behaves like it's in neutral all the time. I pull off the cover to find out if it is a clutch issue (which I suspect). I looked at the clutches and several have zero friction material left on them. I'm guessing that's what my problem is. Anyway I don't have new parts yet and I have ordered them online so I will receive them shortly. My problem is that I put my bike back together so nothing gets lost. Now that it's all back together just like it was before I took it all apart the clutch lever has no resistance...none. Like the cable is not attached...I checked, the cable is attached. I assume that I reassembled the clutch incorrectly. I followed the yamaha service manual so I don't think I did the assembly wrong. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

So I wend riding last weekend at Gorman in CA. I hopped on my bike and started it and it started fine and everything. When I shifted into 1st and let out of the clutch the bike didn't go. Like it was in neutral. I tried shifting into every gear and the shift lever felt normal and acted like it was shifting but when I let out of the clutch nothing happens. I also noticed after that the clutch lever was very hard to pull, probably 100% harder to pull than earlier in the day. I'm assuming something is wrong with the clutch. Does anyone know anything about this or had this happen? I would love to know what the problem was if anyone has encountered or heard of this before as I am going riding for thanksgiving and I need time to have parts shipped and time to install them. Thanks for all your help! It's a stock bike except for a 39mm 2 into 1 carb kit and fmf fatty pipes.

I got a 42 pilot jet and installed it, it idles real nice once I adjusted the idle screw. I pulled out the main jet and it was a 170 not 185 like I was told by the guy I got the carb from. When I went up in jet size the bike got boggy when I hit the throttle. I ran out of time so I didn't get to try anymore jets, I'm going to try 168 and if that's too lean then I will stick with the 170. Thank you for your help.

How do I know if I have an eej or eek needle?

Hi Guys, I just installed a 2 into 1 carb setup on my shee. I found the 2 into 1 manifold and carb boot on ebay. Then I found a 39mm pwk on ebay. I found that my throttle cable I used with carbs with tors eliminator kit worked perfectly with the new carb. 75 degrees out, 100ft above sea level, The carb had 185 main jet the slow jet is 25 (sounds small to me). 2nd clip on needle. Air screw all the way IN. The bike just dies if I'm not giving it any throttle. It won't idle at all. Throttle response is crisp and the bike sounds good... Do you guys think the needle position and main jet size are ok? How about the slow jet? Also I'm almost sure the air screw should be out at least a little (I know 2 turns is good for stock carbs but I'm not sure for aftermarket stuff. Thanks for your help everyone.

If you have stock carbs and tors make sure the threads on the carbs are not worn out. The tors can come off and pull the slide up and make the engine rev.

I want to build some LED lights too. Is the stock banshee electrical system an AC system? The circuits are are all very simple but I need to find out if it's an AC or DC system before I start.

I have a stock bike, except for FMF fatty pipes. I currently have stock carbs that have 260 mains and 25 pilots. Air screw is 2.5 turns out. I ride in about 70 degree weather less than 1000ft above sea level, very low humidity (I don't know if that matters.) I just got a 39mm pwk 2 into 1 kit. I need to know what size jets I should start with. I bought the kit used and it has a 185 main jet in it. Let me know what you guys think.

280 is too rich. Start with 260's. Your bike boggs because it is too rich. The symptom in your first post (falling flat on its face after 2-3 seconds when revving) absolutely indicate being too lean. I am not saying change your jets "just because 220 is too lean". I think you may be too rich on the bottom and that is causing the bogging and after changing to 280 mains (due to "expert" advise) your bike is also way too rich on top. Let me know how it turns out.

My elevation is 7 feet above sea level. I had a stock bike with fatty pipes and toomey intake. I ran 280's (what it had when I got the bike) and it was WAY too rich. I switched to 260's and it is still rich. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY BUYING 300 JETS. I don't want to badmouth anyone buy if you don't actually KNOW the answer you shouldn't spread your speculative "information" here.

I think you might be running a little rich. But whatever I'm sure the experts here will make your bike run...

You are NOT running lean on the top. Try the following things one at a time and let us know the results: 1. More oil. 80:1 is just not enough oil for a banshee with pipes. 2. Try running higher octane gas. My shee is in the exact same configuration (pipes and all else stock) ride in 70 degree or colder weather, usually low humidity, and ran 280 jets and the bike was WAY rich. I switched to 260's. That is still a little rich. Before you go doing anything add more oil then try higher octane gas. Let me know how it turns out.

Thanks for the info. If the guy from trinity is wrong about power gains, what are some realistic gains? I said i usually ride on trails with 4 strokes and I need more bottom end.

I had a stock bike with fattys. I usually ride at 70-80 degrees at under 1000 feet above sea level. When I bought the bike it had 280's and it was way to rich. Then I changed to 260's per the FMF website (25 pilots). I would start with 260's and move down from there.

I have a 97 shee. It is all completely stock except for FMF Fatty pipes (that came on the bike). I recently bought a trinity 2 into 1 setup with the 33mm keihin carb. The guy at trinity told me it would get me about 15% power gain on the top and 20 to 25% on the bottom. Anyway I got the kit and I need some jets now. I called trinity again and they tried to get me to spend a small fortune on a jet kit. I am looking to jet my stock bike (except for fatty pipes and the 2 into 1 carb) for 70 degree weather at about 500 feet above sea level. Where should I start so I don't spend a fortune on jets. Any help is appreciated.

I got my tors eliminator kit on ebay for 30 bucks shipped to my door. It came with everything including a new throttle cable, idle screws, and a drill bit and tap to drill and tap the holes for the itle screws.