jkross

You guys have given me lots of GREAT ideas...thanks for taking the time to help a brother! I'm going to go down the list and see what works. Stand By...

OK...here's me swallowing my pride - one for the, "how to make an easy job hard," file: When trying to change the oil I: 1. Rounded the plug - got pissed. 2. Tried to break it loose with a chizzle and failed. 3. drilled the plug. 4. Pushing too hard, drill bit broke through then broke off inside my freakin motor!! AAUUUGHHH!!! 5. Re-drilled with bigger bit. 6. Used an "easy out" - BROKE THAT OFF IN MY DRILLED HOLE!!!!!!!!!!! 7. Got Super mega ultra F'ING pissed!!!!!! 8. Took out anger and beat on chizzle harder. 9. Plug actually broke loose and I removed it. Now boys and girls, I have a drill bit inside my case. OH..I forgot to mention that it's on my kid's Blaster. If it were my Shee, I could just take off the right (clutch side) case and see through to the other side and fish it out with a magnet. However, the blaster case makes that impossible. So, I need a freakin' miracle. My thoughts: 1. Call all my buddies to see who has the smallest, most flexible magnet and try that. Didn't work. I need one that goes to 90 instantly after going through the hole. 2. Shop vac - bring it closer to the opening with suction. This really sounds stupid - but I'm gonna try it anyway. 3. Take engine out - shake vigorously, trying to coax the bit toward the hole...then somehow use a magnet to grab it. 4. Take the entire motor apart to get the damn thing out. You can imagine how much that prospect thrills me. SO, here's hoping that you all have some bright ideas on what I can do / try to avoid ripping the thing clear apart. The hole is just so damn small, none of the magnetic devices I've found even come close to being small enough or flexible enough. Thanks

I have 2 - 2003's...and don't worry about that sight glass. Put in 3/4 quart and forget about it...it's fine. The light has to be just right on that damn thing...and the freakin' brake lever is always in the way...just trust your measurement (but do it right.)

Hey - Thanks for the tip about the low torque specs. Thanks to you I actually took the time to check on it. So, in the spirit of actually adding something to this forum that somebody can search on sometime - that might actually do some good someday - I checked the torque specifications for the clutch spring bolts. The magic number is 74 inch lbs. of torque. And, to show what a mechanical loser I am - I had never even heard of inch lbs. before. I guess you learn something everyday...and my wife says all this thing is is a money pit. Now I can tell her it's an educational opportunity. :thumbsup: Thanks again everybody. I'm going to actually be re-istalling the clutch soon and it is very likely I'll run into more problems...so, until later.

That's awesome...thanks! Although You've just enabled my laziness and may have put me off buying the Clymer until the next project. :thumbsup: I haven't viewed them yet, but I hope there's torque specs in there as well. No I'm scared to over tighten...I'm really good at breaking stuff. Thanks to everyone.

Hey guys, I'm puttin in a HD clutch...metals, fibers and springs (just 3 springs though, thanks to the advice I've read in the forums.) So: I've got the cover off and I'm at the point where I need to take the springs out. I'm a hack mechanic and really good at F@#!ing things up and want some advice for what are likely stupid questions before I proceed: (I've been using BigRed350X's "Splitting the cases" pictures and descriptions as a guide...but I'm not sure I need to do everything just for a clutch replacement...and - I know..I know - I need a Clymer. I'm getting one...just couldn't wait before I started.) 1. Do I need to remove the "clutch arm" if I'm just replacing the metals, fibers and springs? 2. Do I need to do anything special before I take the springs out or remove the "outer hub." 3. Any good tips for keeping the engine from turning over while I'm trying to remove the springs and the center nut?" 4. Any good advice for cleaing all the stuck pieces of old gasket off the cover and case before the new one goes back on? I plan on soaking the new metals and fibers in the new oil for about an hour before I install them. I've been told to use Redline - so that's what I'm gonna use. Thanks for the help. As always - you guys rock!

Well...first of all, thanks to all who responded. It looks like the culprit was dirty carbs. They didn't look dirty at all, I was surprised how clean they looked when I pulled them apart. However, after blasting them with 1 can of carb cleaner a peice, and putting them back together...no more smoke!!!!!! Both sides now appear to be emitting identical exhaust. I'm going riding this weeked (for the first time ever with this bike,) and we'll see how it goes. All I know is that I can't freakin' wait. Thanks again to all.

Thanks for getting back to me about what the dealership said - I hadn't checked yet. $600.00 seems a little steep but I know it's an involved process - bummer. I'm haven't had much time to work on it, but - I switched the plug wires (thought one was bad) no difference. I swapped the plugs...the one on the smoking side looked a little dark - it made a little difference...caused a little more smoke on the left side...same amount on the right. Next step is to tear the carbs apart for a good cleaning...check the air adjustments etc...and, to ride. I'm going to take it out (for the first time) for a few hours and see what happens...keep a close eye on the trans oil level. I don't think it's been ridden in a LONG time....so maybe it just needs a good ride to blow everything out...(yeah..I'm sure that's it - NOT!) I just pisses me off 'cause it runs so freakin strong up and down my street...snaps my neck back...dammit! Anyway, thanks for the info. Good luck.

Great! You just gave me some hope. Thanks for taking the time to help! I'll give it a shot.

Great advice man...I'll do just that and check all those things. One additional question..a buddy of mine looked at the plug wires and thought one of them was bad or had almost gone bad. I know you have to buy the whole coil to replace the plug wires. Could a "less strong" spark on one side, due to a potentially bad plug wire cause the additional smoke...cause it's not burning hot enough?

Good idea...I'll check the jetting and try to figure out if the left side lean or the right rich. To be honest, I just bought it and am using the fuel that's in it - So I can't answer any of your questions. I figured it was the right mixture..but when I refuel, I'll err on the side of rich. I'm not concerned so much with the smoke on one side...it's not much more than usual from any 2 stoke...just the lack of smoke on the left. Or is that crazy? Who knows. But, thanks.

Sorry to hear it was totaled. How long did you ride it like that? Any performance issues...didn't blow the motor or anything? Did you get any help on the forum...or call a shop? I'm going to call a shop and I'll get back to you with what they say. Thanks, man.

a. I guess I'd know that if my transmission oil level dropped steadily wouldn't I? Guess I have some riding to do to test that theory. b. That's got to be a serious job. Is this pretty do-able?...Something a guy can do himself? (I'm not a mechanic, but I have friends who are.)

The right side (sitting on the bike) is smoking more than the left...in fact, it appears the the left side isn't smoking enough. Cold, warm, hot...doesn't matter. It runs like a CHAMP. Compression is IDENTICAL on both sides. There's no funky smell or anything...just a lack of smoke on the left side. I basically just got the bike and haven't ridden at all...just up and down my street. I've taken it apart (everything but the motor,) cleaning, polishing etc...now I want to do some real riding. Can I just pretend it's OK and go riding...or do I have to do something about it? I've checked the forum and seen only a couple threads on this...and wanted more opinions. You guys have been spot-on with every question I've ever asked...so I'm turning to you all again. Thanks.

I searched the forums for info on the powerball. Two references - 1 good & 1 Bad. I'm hoping to get a few more opinions...any takers? I can imagine it would get gummed up really bad, really quick. Am I wrong? I found a lot of info you all posted on polishes - great info. just need to know about the good ol' powerball. I just bought a banshee and everything on it is polished - but dirty. I just want a simple solution to polish everything back to it's glory days (is that too much to ask?) The Powerball looked like it might do the trick. I'm a cheap bastard and don't want to throw $30.00 down the drain. I've got to do four sets of wheels, the footpegs, shifter, brake levers, case, head, swing arm, fatty pipes, powercore silencers..yada yada yada...lots of work. I should have bought a bike with less shiny stuff. I haven't even ridden it yet!...I'm forever going to be polishing. Thanks in advance.

Great advice from All - Thank you for taking the time to respond. I really apprecaite it! I'll err on the side of the higher ratio - I'm not the most mechanical person in the world - I'd hate to have to rebuilt it...but I guess I'll have to learn how someday Thanks, again.

All - I'd like to start by saying thanks for all the good advice I recieved from my last post. I really appreciate it. New problem: I've figured out I have a bad Petcock valve. Basically, it's always on, and gas leaks out the overflow / drain tubes coming off the bowls - slow but steady. So, when I fix the valve and turn the fuel on - I'm still going to leak gas. I don't know that much about carbs, but could this be a problem with the needles not sealing? Thanks all - take it easy.

I just bought my first Banshee - a '99 that was alledgedly rebuilt from the ground up in 2002. Not EXACTLY sure what all has been done to it...The seller claimed the motor was built in 2002 by a race shop in Oregon - WhiteKnuckleRacing - I have some receipts. However, from all the receipts, all I know for CERTAIN, is that it has a "mild port," and a shaved head. There is no airbox - only two K&N, clamp-on filters clamped directly to the carbs. The whole motor is polished - it looks really nice. I don't want to screw it up and I don't trust the guy I bought it from to tell me what to run in it...he only had it a few months and didn't ride it hardly at all - said it was too fast for him. My questions: 1. When do you HAVE to run higher octane or race gas? Do the over-the-counter schucks-type octane boosters work? How do I know that I need to run???? 2. What oil mixure should I use? I need to know the ratio and what the best brand is. I hear synthetic may not provide the best protection - but that the "Castor" bean oil provides the best protection. Too much conflicting info - so I thought I'd ask you all - the ones actually doing the riding. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance.

I just bought my first Banshee - a '99 that was alledgedly rebuilt from the ground up in 2002. Not EXACTLY sure what all has been done to it...The seller claimed the motor was built in 2002 by a race shop in Oregon - WhiteKnuckleRacing - I have some receipts. However, from all the receipts, all I know for CERTAIN, is that it has a "mild port," and a shaved head. There is no airbox - only two K&N, clamp-on filters clamped directly to the carbs. The whole motor is polished - it looks really nice. I don't want to screw it up and I don't trust the guy I bought it from to tell me what to run in it...he only had it a few months and didn't ride it hardly at all - said it was too fast for him. My questions: 1. When do you HAVE to run higher octane or race gas? Do the over-the-counter schucks-type octane boosters work? How do I know that I need to run???? 2. What oil mixure should I use? I need to know the ratio and what the best brand is. I hear synthetic may not provide the best protection - but that the "Castor" bean oil provides the best protection. Too much conflicting info - so I thought I'd ask you all - the ones actually doing the riding. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance.