awesomeame

i'm storing my shee for the winter-what do i need to do? fog cylinders? change oil? --matt

ah ha! it's a "step two" throttle kit. i found the receipt and am gonna send the guy an email. i sent motionpro an email too, but no reply yet --matt

thanks, i will check out their site. does anyone know if this one will work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Yamaha-...sspagenameZWDVW --matt

Hey i tried to install my twist throttle kit in my shee last night, but the housing where the one cable goes into two, is broken. where can i buy a new cable, my dealer doesn't carry these, and i can't remember what brand this kit is since i bought it so long ago thanks --matt

going to install the twist throttle on my 'shee. WHY do i need to install the idle screws? can't i just adjust the throttle cable so that the cables are holding the slides up, instead of drilling holes into my carbs? --matt

need suggestions for jetting, mains/pilot/needle....applicable mods: toomey t5 K&N pod filters boyesen power reeds 0.040 over elevation: 1000 ft riding temp: 15-30*C/59-86*F suggestions appreciated! --matt

great ideas, thanks guys!! --matt

i had the left piston/cylinder seize up on me. not entirely sieze up, but it needs to be bored over in any case. the right piston/cylinder look great. so, what happened? i figure it must be sucking air somewhere, or there's no fuel at the carb. i can't find any leaks between the carb and the cylinder. would a bad crank seal cause air to get sucked in? is there some way to pressurize the case to see if there are any leaks in the bottom end? there's no oil dripping anywhere. how much pressure should i put into the case? --matt

does anyone know of somewhere that sells an entire COMPLETE gasket, bearing, seal etc set? i need to rebuild my engine and i hate mixing and matching different sets to get all the pieces together, then still having to go to the dealer for the odd one. someone must sell a complete kit.. --matt

i'm rebuilding my shee, was just looking on ebay at piston kits, here's what i found: WSM gold-------$209 WSM platinum-$135 namura---------$140 wiseco----------$145 they all include gasket sets are any of the above choices fine?? or are some junk? my last set of pistons were from vertex, there was a ten thousands difference between the two. not too impressed with that!! --matt

well i figured out the fuel in the overflow tubes. seems it's normal. above spec and the fuel pours out, below spec and the fuel pours out. within spec and there's always some in the tubes...so must be OK. i'm up to a 310 main now, but i'm going to have to do a plug chop, i've gotttttta be rich. no loss in performace though compared to the 280, at least not noticeable ((shrugs)) hopefully have this thing set up shortly. --matt

k, i got the bottom end figured out. 1.25 turns on the mixture, and the idle is set real low. works great coming out of the corner. i also put in the 280 main, then the 290, and it "feels" like it still wants more, so i'm going to try a 300 tomorrow or thursday and see how that goes. the front end just lifts way up everytime i pin it now haha still have the question about having fuel in the overflow tubes...is it normal to have some in there? it doesn't drip on the ground or anything, but there is always about 1/2" worth of fuel in there ((shrugs!!)) --matt

ok, i'll do the chop tomorrow after i install some 280s. so to adjust idle i need to lower the slides. then what is the airmixture screw for? stock is 2.0 turns out, boyesen recommends 1/4 to 1/2 turn in, because of the reeds? how many turns should i have on this thing?? --matt

hey guys! thanks for the replies. the saga here is continuing. i figured since i was putting all this effort into rejetting, now is a good time to get a k&n as was mentioned. so right now i've got 2 k&n's, one on each carb. the stock airbox is sitting on the shelf. so of course now everything is changing again, it was back to square one. engine running away, coughing bad. the top end seemed ok, but bottom end was crap. i went to the 2nd groove (leaner) but it just got worse. went to the 4th groove and the bike just came alive. seems great on the mid & top. here's where i'm at 270 main 25 pilot 4th groove 1.0 turns on airscrew ~1000 above sea level 80*F ambient the bottom end is another story. it idles high 2500-ish rpm. 1.0 turns on the airscrew seems to be the best, but it's not right. also can't say it's got much power in the stop/idle to mid range. should i try a larger pilot jet? what would be the next size up from 25? my plan is to get a different pilot and try that tomorrow, also maybe get a 280 main and see how that goes. right now the plugs are a dark color, but dry...no wetness whatsoever. any input appreciated as always, thanks! --matt

heyhey!! so here's today's update. i noticed there was some pitting (from arcing) on the tops of the spark plugs, from the caps not being totally tight on the plug. i pulled the caps off, the one had 600 ohms resistance, the other had 5 ohms resistance. so i replaced both caps with 0 ohm caps, and gapped new plugs to .030. is 0 ohm ok with this gap? i then ran it, it was a lot smoother, but still ran like crap. then i removed the airbox as was suggested, and holy crap does it ever run well now!!! so the 270 is too rich with the airlid on. i'm at work right now, will take it out to check plugs tonight and then post up. is it OK to run with the airlid off the airbox? is there a lot of gain-is it worth it to keep the airlid off? i usually ride in some mud and sand, call me paranoid i don't want that stuff in my engine lol --matt

yeh i'll drop the 240s in tomorrow..need to go buy them first otherwise i'd be doing it now. as for the slides, i can see the syncing marks in the windows, so they must be oriented correctly? i'll double check that. choke tube is connected, and new plugs at the beginning of this adventure. what do you think about the float issue? since i'll be opening it up again i could adjust them if needed thanks --matt

rebuilt the carbs again today. before i had fuel coming out of the overflows after each run, so i adjusted the floats from 23mm to 20.5mm (specs say 21mm +/- 1mm) there is still some fuel in the overflow tubes all the time, but the level doesn't seem to change, and both carbs are the same, but it's always there...is this normal???? i ran it, bottom end was a bit better (float adjustment?) or at least it seemed better, as for the top end there was nothing. sputtered like mad between mid & top, then when you get to top, nothin. like hitting a wall. also adjusting the airmixture screw didn't seem to do anything at all?? i checked the boots for leaks, slides are moving fine, nothing appears to be sticking. i'm wondering if the 270 is just wayy too big, and when i go WOT i'm just flooding the engine ? it's definitely running a bit rich on the mid-range-plugs were a bit wet/black. ((shrugs)) --matt p.s. it's a 2001, as per sig

GEEZ I NEED SOME HELP i'm running the stock airbox with stock filter. here's what i did today: 270 main 25 pilot 3rd groove 1.5 turns on airscrew ~1000 above sea level 85*F it all sounded good until i put a load on the bike and went for a ride. i rode at 1/2 throttle in 1st gear for about 15 seconds. plugs were copper colored, dry. then i did the same thing, but ran about 20-30 seconds, and the engine just wouldn't slow down. i turned the ignition off and the engine was still humming away at high rpm. pulled the choke and it shut down. WTF!!!! also did a couple full throttle 1st gear runs. it would run at full throttle about 5 seconds, then fall flat, no power, no nothing, then after a couple seconds the power would be back. the engine also continued to rev at high rpm with the ignition off, until i pulled the choke. WTF. so what the hell is going on here! this thing had more power before i added these pipes lol. the throttles aren't sticking, and the ignition system is working properly, so this is definitely a fuel problem. where do i go from here?? --matt

guess i'm buying some 270s unless someone suggests something else? be a good place to start as any i guess, thanks!! my 200s sound way low. --matt

just like the title says, is it possible to change main jets without removing the carb from the bike?? any tips/tricks? --matt

well it does melt the plastic, haha. i found some high-temp silicone sheeting, so i put that between the pipes and the plastic...seems to work just fine --matt

on the left side, the pipe between the main pipe and the stinger...mine rubs on the stock airbox, and also on the plastic of my fender. is this normal?? will it melt the airbox/fender if i leave it like this?? i was thinking maybe getting some heatshield and covering up those areas??? suggestions?? thanks --matt

i searched, couldn't find anything that related to my situation...current setup 200 main 25 pilot 3rd groove 2 turns on airscrew ~1000 above sea level 68*F-85*F normal riding when the engine was stock, the above was rich, plugs wet/black. now i've installed boyesen dual stage power reeds, toomey t5s and the engine has been rebuilt. boyesen recommends turning in the airscrew 1/4-1/2 turn. will the above setup still work with the new mods, or ???? what does everyone recommend??? thanks --matt

hey i sent you a msg, i hope you got it, my internet is giving me some grief over here. LMK if you didn't get it.. --matt

hey do you have a stock r/h muffler for sale?? i see you have stock pipes listed... --matt