clinton588

If it's in the motor then it is the waterpump seal. I have had to fix this on many banshees. slobanshee06 is right, change the seal.

I'm going out on Saturday 11/15/08 @ 9am to Nellis Dunes if anyone wants to meet up. I have a 2001 Silverado w/ a Chevy/American flag in the back window. See you out their.

If you don't have a easy pull, get one. They are only like $30. Also try to lub your cable. The cable lub tool, and lub is around $20. Also, you can just put 3 soft & 3 hard springs in the clutch. All you have to buy is a clutch cover gasket, oil (motil trans oil 10 W 30 - 1.6 qt's), and springs (unless you can get some springs from a shop) for around $30.

10 paddle is a lot of paddle. I run a 6 paddle. What are you doing to the motor ? (i.e. porting, stroke, etc.) I have 30 mil/. carbs, porting, stock clutch w/ barnett HD springs, cool head w/ 19 cc domes, and a dyna tec cdi. That works good for me in all play spots.

To port the cases or "port match" the cases to the cylinders is when after you port the cylinders on the transfers end of it there is sometimes a lip from the cases to the cylinders. Now every port job is not the same. It just depends on what port job and who did it. Oh, always match your cylinder gaskets too.

With after market clutchs that happens alot. I run a stock clutch with barnett HD springs. Every time I build a banshee I put the clutch set up back to stock. When I say stock I mean stock plates, fibers, and cusions with barnett hd springs. Just my .2 cents.

I run Motol Trans oil 10w30, 50/50 antifreeze, and Castor 927 @ 40/1. This has worked for me. My motor has been together for 3 years on this set up. But every one has there own set up.

WOW, I would say clean it up. How did so much water get in there?

What is done to your clutch?

I would go back in there and see what it could be. Check everything in your clutch b4 you split you cases. That adj. bolt can and will come loose if not tight enough.

Call Alba action in CA. they have a shift drum with a bearing on the inside support, makes the drum turn easy. You can also get the forks from them.

I had the same issue with my 421. It was my springs, they were to heavy with a clutch lock out. I had to just put 3 stock, & 3 HD Barnett springs. Also check the space between the shift star and the shift arm, it should be even. As for the trany, if that's all you do is drag it I would just get an over ride trany.

Like I said all bikes are different, a part that works on one bike might not work on another. I know the part works on some bikes but it did not work on ours. Jeff at Tudors Racing had me send it back and did not know why it broke.

Is it shifting good now? If not pull your clutch cover off and look at your little spring on the shift arm behind the clutch basket. If not that check the adjuster stud to make sure it is ok.

Not to down any parts any parts but I have a 02 Shee with all the stock clutch & shifter parts, with the excipton of Barnett HD springs. We tryed The shift star & shift pro in a bike that was hard to shift and the shift pro broke in about 10 hrs of riding. So what I'm saying is fix the problem first b4 you go spending money that won't fix the problem. After the problem is fixted then if you want to try something new it would be cool. Every bike is different some parts work and some don't.

If any one wants to hook up for a ride this weekend, I will pe at nellis dunes on saturday (11/08/08) around 10-11 ish am. I will have a 2001 silverado and a pink rhino with me. I will be on my banshee .

You have to pull off the foot peg, kick starter, clutch cover, kick starter set up, clutch, clutch basket, then you can get to the shift arm. The spring more then likely poped out of the arm. Just put it back in and check the adjustment on the clutch arm with the shift star. Also check the adjuster bolt for the shift arm, if it is broke that will also do it.

Thanks to all for the help. I will play with it a dumont this weekend. I thought it was way rich.

I will be out there, look for 2 pink rhino's & 3 banshee's with them.

Hi to all, I hope some one can help me on this. The following is were I'm at now: 35MM PWK'S MAIN - 175 PIOLT - 50 NEEDILE - DEK SECOND FROM TOP AIR SCREW - 1 1/2 TURNS OUT PIPES - T4 DOMES - 19CC 100OCT GAS PORTING - FAST TRAIL / DUNE PORT PISTONS - 64.50 795 SERIES CRANK - HOT RODS LONG ROD REEDS - V-FORCE V2 INTAKE - FIBER-LITE LUNGZ W/ K&N TIMING - PLATE +2 I think this is all of it. If any one can give me their FYI it would be cool. I just got the bike together for halloween weekend and trying to get it running as best as I can. I think this is pretty close, but I know I'm not the best and anything helps. THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP. VEGAS QUAD CARTEL, LAS VEGAS, NV

Hi, my name is Clint & I think I'm the person you are looking for. I have a yellow banshee & my friend has a all white banshee. We are always at apex racing. I always help people with their bike's when I can. I like to see eveyone having a good time. I do live in Las Vegas. If you see a 2001 Silverado W/ a chevy / american flag in the back window, or there is a group of us that go by Vegas Quad Cartel. Come by and say hi, always like to meet new people. I'f you or anyone wants to hook up for a good ride let me know, I'm always down. I'm new to form sits or I would give you my # don't know how this all works. SORRY.

give toomey a call, if they have one in stock use only 4 of the springs that come with the kit. if you use all 6 your arm will get tired fast. if they dont have it in stock call hinson. they make a very good clutch also. what kind of oil do you run?

i have a 98 shee, i put a 4mil stroker w/ 5mil long rods, 30 mm carbs, v-force reeds, cool head w/ 22 cc domes at 150lbs of comp., & toomey t4 pipes. my question is that on top end when it starts to hit it's peek it starts to cut out like it's running out of fuel or hitting it's rev limiter or somthing like that. i tried to play with the jetting i went up and down with the main, i changed the plugs, just about every thing i could think of. can any one help!!!