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98golded

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Everything posted by 98golded

  1. Bump for a good lookin helmet, too bad it's not red & black!
  2. Read the first post, can't haul, have no way. The rear shock is a stock shock revalved for a 220lb rider by TCS. Carbs are stock, just jetted. No title, titles aren't required in KY.
  3. Haven't heard anything from you regarding this yet. If you're not interested let me know, got a few others wanting it.

  4. Yep, as of this moment it is. No one has shown me any cash yet.
  5. Alright, here's an update. For anyone who thinks they're gonna lowball me, until I get enough interest in the other parts on the quad, the wheels aren't going anywhere. 700 plus the ride for the wheels and tires, will not seperate, must all go together. Like new, only seen wet grass, not even on the pipe. 350 plus the ride for the front shocks, set up for a 200 lb rider 150 plus the ride for the rear shock, rebuilt and revalved by TCS for a 220 lb rider 375 plus the ride for the pipes These are just estimates, if I get enough hits on this stuff I'll consider parting it out, if not, it goes whole or it sits.
  6. The failure rate for PS3's are 1.2 percent as to the xbox failure rate being 26 percent, last I checked, this may or may not be accurate. I have both an xbox 360 and a PS3. Good to see you got a deal though, now go buy a 320 gig hard drive with some of that extra 200 bucks.
  7. I'm located in Northern Kentucky, about 20 minutes from Portsmouth Ohio on the Kentucky side if you know whereabouts that is. I'd consider parting it out of I got enough interest in all the parts. Until I get enough interest in parts I'm gonna try and sell it whole. It's well worth 2k.
  8. Up for sale is the project I've been working on. Built this thing to keep but job issues force me to sell it (unemployment blows). Been workin on this thing for 2 years, here's a list of what's been done. -New Transparent Red powdercoat on the frame, wheel hubs, sprocket and brake hub -New stock bore topend, unported w/ Pro-Lites -New bottom end bearings in the crank and tranny, as well as new seals for the cases -New bearings and bushings including swingarm, a-arms, wheel bearings, axle bearings and steering stem bushing -New Elka Dual rate front shocks w/o reservoirs, threaded preload adjustable w/ Elka shock covers -New Hiper Beadlocks front and rear w/ black rings, 4+1 Offset up front, 4+5 on the rears -New ITP Trac Star Rear tires 20x10-9 and 21x7-10 Razrs up front, 3 rides on them -New silver powder on the swingarm and axle carrier -New ASV F-3 levers -New Clutch & Throttle Cables -V-Force 3 Reeds -Toomey TR-6 Chrome Pipes -Alba Aluminum proflow plate with K&N Filter and Precharger -New MSR Gunmetal Finish Handlebars I originally began this build with the intentions of having a high performance, stable trail quad. Never really intended to sell the thing, but 2 kids later and standing in the unemployment line gives different views. The quad DOES run and you can ride it, but it needs plastic and for some reason I couldn't get the front brakes to bleed out, I think the calipers may be frozen because I can watch the lines flex. All the parts that were put on were installed by me with all new fasteners and hardware. I stripped this thing down to nothing, as most of anyone knows you have to do with a ground up build. Asking 2k, no trades, need the cash. Here are pics, and can take more pics upon request.
  9. The only negative things I've heard about the full flight arms is that the heims they use are weak. The construction of the arms themselves are alright from what I hear, just the weak heims they use.
  10. Cylinders are sold. Adding a set of stock a-arms, all ball joints good, bushings good, come with sleeves and endcaps. 90 shipped. can post pics on request.
  11. Anybody? Make offers, I need to get rid of this stuff. Don't need much more before I can get it on it's wheels.
  12. First time putting anything up for sale on here. Just looking to get rid of the few parts that I don't need, to keep funding my shee build. Stock port cylinders, currently 65mm bore, need bored again, piece of the ring broke and nicked the right side cylinder. might be able to get away with going .050 over, I'd probably go 60 just to be safe. I'd like to get $160 shipped outta these to buy a new set of pistons for the other jugs I've got. Stock front brake setup, no pads included, or hard lines. Just the rubber lines, splitter, calipers and master cylinder. I'd like to get $50 shipped out of these. Two stock heads, both unmilled, one has a few chamber scuffs, looks like detonation to me. Make offer on the heads, I've got no clue what they're worth. Can email pics upon request. dtaulbee@windstream.net questions about the cylinders, you can call my cell 606 922 6770, my zip is 41179. This might help, a link to my ebay feedback. http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...tab=AllFeedback
  13. You can actually have a CDI tested, you have to take it to your local yamaha shop and have it sent back to the manufacturer, they can test them. Just about everything else though can be tested with a Multimeter
  14. I'm completely rebuilding my 98, and I have an 03 harness with all the brake light goodies on it. I've noticed up on the front part of my harness, there's a white female plug with a black & green wire going to it. I'm not sure what this plugs into and can't remember what I unplugged it from. I don't want to cut it off if I'm going to need it, as I'm shaving all the wires and plugs off it that I don't need, mainly the TORS junk. Any help or insight would be appreciated.
  15. Depending on the type of coolhead you get and where you get it from, you might have to purchase a longer head stud kit, as the pro design heads are thicker than the factory heads around where the head mounts to the cylinders. If you're looking for an obvious power increase your best bet would be advanced timing along with portwork. There are many different styles of porting depending on the type of riding you do. A cool head isn't as much necessary, but a luxury to be able to just unbolt the head and change the domes to change compression, it just holds more water. You can have your factory head shaved and if cooling is still a priority buy a couple of inline water coolers and a billet water impeller.
  16. I've got a set of fronts, brand new never used, I thought about getting rid of them for a set with the billet centers, rears I'm keeping though. I'll take what I paid for them, 320.
  17. What arms are you speaking of?
  18. Looking into getting a set of full flight a arms for the shee build I'm working on. Also going with Elka shocks, dual rate fronts, probably w/o rezzies for now just to get used to the feel of the quad, then later maybe upping to rezzies and adjustability. Just looking for some opinions of people who've used the a-arms, and opinions on the nonadjustable shocks that Elka offers. Thanks!!
  19. The banshee engines are probably one of the most simple engines there are to work on. I was surprised how easy it was to put back together after I'd split the cases the first time. Now it's a breeze. Just take your time and look everything over really well, and I'd agree that replacing the seals would be a good bet, also make sure your cases aren't damaged or anything of the like, or even your cylinders.
  20. No, the deal is, there was a bolt broken off in the hole, I let my dad drill it out, and he drilled through the side instead of actually drilling out the bolt, he drilled it off center and fucked up the whole thing
  21. Sounds to me like you might have a shift fork bent, I'm not sure what forks work what gears, but I'm pretty sure the left rear fork works your 3 to 4 gears, and maybe even your 4 to 5 gears.
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