Yamaha

I live in Clarksville AR and my banshee was stolen 11-23-06 between midnight and 6 am from the back of my truck, a black extended cab step side ford f150, parked in the middle of the parking lot by atwoods and pizza hut, it is a 99 has blue fenders cut front, has 2 small k&n stickers on frame between exhaust and gas tank, has 2 small MSR stickers were the fronts were cut off at, 1 medium size COMETIC gasket sticker on the left side of the tank, and 1 large ADIO sticker on the right rear, has polished ITP wheels with all bald tires(unless thief replaces) black toomey t5 exhaust with polished silencers, a polished clutch cover with the rear of the clutch cover painted orange(very noticable), has polished ac front bumper, polished dg rear grab bar, polished dg nerfs with blue nets, polished throttle cover and brake resevoir cap. stock bars with blue pro taper grips, blue seat, boyseen rad valve, stock carbs with two pod filters(no brand on them), the left footpeg has one of the bolts stripped so we drilled it all the way through the frame and put a long bolt and nut through it, an the shifter is held on with a blue grade 8 nut and bolt. Am prolly forgetting some things but you get the picture of what is looks like? Please keep an eye out, will give a 100 dollar reward for info, it's not much but I'm pretty broke, was relying on this wheeler for some much needed cash.

Ok, figured it out, have the #30's in there along with 340 main and needle in stock location. The problem was the tors unit on top of the carbs, when I got it the screws on top were stripped out to adjust the slide height or idle whatever, but they were striped out in the most open position so when I tried to adjust idle at the throttle with the cable it would just hit the tors switch inside the carb tops and would not go any lower due to the switch inside, so I just took the switch out of the carb tops and the slides dropped about another 1/8th of an inch and now I can adjust the idle and now my shee is a screamer again, thanks for your help.

To start I'm at 370 ft elevation around 70 degrees. Around January I decided to rebuilt my top-end due to low compression, before the tear down it ran fine with toomey t5's,boost bottle,boyseen rad valve, no airbox lid and pro flow filter and adapter plate. The only thing I did was new top-end .03 over, milled 20 thousandths off stock head, and removed airbox and put on pod filters, changed jets to a 340 main and left stock 25 pilot, would not start with the 25 unless chock was on even when warm, pulled them to put in some 30 pilots and realized the 25's were cloged up a little bit, went ahead and put in the 30 pilots and it now starts first kick every time but idles too high, tried lowering carb slides to lower the idle and nothing happened with them all the way down, also adjusted the air mixture screws in and out, the idle just gets faster when I turn them out, ran it down the road even though it was idling high just to see how it was going to run throughout the gears and it runs perfect other than the high idling, has lots of power and quik response all the way up. Pulled the 30's out and put the 25's back in, after I cleaned them out, and it would start with them but bogges right when I hit the gas, have to hit it and release it over and over to get over the bog,this is with choke on, dies when I release choke, just runs like crap with the 25's basically, so I put the 30's back in to see if I could get it right with them. Question is, could the 25 be too small and the 30 too big or what? I thing the 30 is perfect other than the high idle, what should I do, soon as I post this I am going to check for air leaks> Thanks for any advice you can lay on me.

Are you serious about trading the truck for a banshee? got any pics of the truck? if interested I have just rebuilt my banshee less than a week ago(new top-end .030 over-wiseco pro-lites, stock bottom, milled stock head .020, boyseen rad valves, boost bottle, black toomey t-5's w/polished silencers-fresh paint on headers and stingers, dg nerfs and grab bar-polished, ac front bumper-polished, pod filters, 340 main-30 pilot jets, stock carbs, polished thumb throtle cover and polished brake resivour, polished clutch cover, and itp t-9 pro series gp wheels-polished, stock plastics-blue-race cut fronts-still look new other than being cut. Planned on rebuilding mine and placing it for sell or trading for an 84 to a 94 chevy truck as soon as it gets broken in, which I finished break in about two days ago and it hasn't been touched since other than a wash and polish job, prolly won't ever ride it again unless I can't get rid of it, going to place it for sale or trade here locally next week. If interested I can post pics as soon as I figure out how(please tell me if you know how)-my computor says they are too big to attach to the forum, or I could e-mail them to your e-mail address, I do know how to send them to an e-mail address,my banshee looks almost like eazy's that started this post. Please reply very interested. Mine does need new tires, turf tamers on rear are bald and front are the stock ones also bald(6 years old)

pics sent to shawn4@hotmail.com (hopefully) email or reply if not

Could you post or PM pics of front, rear, left and right sides, why is the battery disconnected, hows it run?

pm sent and pics coming later in the day

I have a 99 Banshee just rebuilt the top end and broke it in litterally today,have reciepts to prove it, had it bored 30 over with wiseco pro lites, stock bottom end , race cut front plastic, black toomey t-5's, pod filters, boost bottle, itp pro series gp wheels, dg nerfs and grab bar, and ac racing front bumper. If interested I can post pics What kind of banshee are you looking for, as in modded, stock

I'm running pod filters straight off the carbs, have tried 1/4 turn 1/2,3/4,1,1 1/4 etc etc all the way out an it still does the same thing, will only start with choke hot or cold, harder when cold but once warm it fires first kick with choke on. I ordered a 30 pilot jet yesterday, it should be in tomorrow, so I'll throw it in there and see how shee acts then, hopefully that will fix her because its all I can think of. The needle position wouldn't affect idle would it? And also should the slides be bottomed out in the carb at idle or should there be a slight gap?

To start I'm at 370 Elevation and about 70 degrees now, my banshee has T-5's, head milled .025, boost botle and boyseen rad valve. The airbox was removed so I put in a 340 main(was 280) the pilot is still the stock 25, my problem is that it is hard to start (with) choke, and wont start without ,once it is warm it still wont start without it, if I start it with the choke on and warm, it will idle until I let off of the choke then die, it also idles very high with the choke on does this mean I need to go bigger on the pilot? air screw does nothing and carbs are clean

ASR Pro Star A-Arms +2 up 1 Does anyone have them or any pictures of them installed, and would they be ok for my riding areas, I ride mostly trails and a small track with a few small jumps, the biggest jump I hit in 3rd gear and fly about 30 feet or so and land on a very smooth landing, only get about 5 feet of air. I don't feel I need some high dollar ones since the stock suspension soaks up the jumps I hit pretty good, I just want it to land a little smoother and ride a little more stable. What shocks would you recommend for them also? and they do have a lifetime guarantee so if I do break them they will be replaced

no I ride mostly oklahoma,little sahara is about the only fun place around here

I have the same setup as you except I run a boyseen rad valve and I started with a 340 main and it was just a hair too rich so I stuck a 330 in and it was perfect and i'm at 380ft elevation so I thing you will be running lean with a 310 but banshee's are all differant, I personally would get some 330's or 340's before I ran it though, I may even go back to the 340 just to keep it a little rich for safety reasons, don't want to blow it up. Also the needle sould be fine in the stock #3 clip, atleast mine was. Good Luck, those three mods will make you alot faster

Does anyone know where I can get a set of rings for my 64.75mm wiseco pro lites, I have found a few but I don't have a credit card or debit card anymore so I will have to pay with a western union money order and Wiseco doesn't accept money orders and the others I found only have .020, .040, .060 and so on, no .030 over. Thanks for your help, and do I have to use wiseco rings or is there another ring I can use on wiseco pistons?

sorry for not posting for your answers and questions but I've been busy this week, the reason I want pro x pistons are that I personally like the cast pistons in my banshee as I just ride on weekends, no races or riding super hard so I don't feel I need the forged pistons. I do have wisecos in it now though, and as it turns out me and my mechanic measured the cylinders and pistons and he feels i can get anouther couple of months off of just a re-ring since the piston to cylinder clearance is at .004?? so I think I will just re-ring it and throw some new gaskets on her for a while.

Can someone please tell me or help me find a place that sell a ProX Piston kit for my banshee I need 65mm pistons, everywhere I look they are too expensive and sold each piston, and don't include gaskets, the kit doesn't have to have gaskets but I would prefer it to. Thanks for any help

OK, I asked once and forgot to include what pipes I have so here are my mods, Toomey T-5's, Bored .040 over, Milled .020 thousandths, Carbon Fiber Boyseen Rad Valves and Reed Cages, Boost Bottle, No Airbox-individual 3x4 inch pod filters on stock carbs, no tors. Elevation is 370 ft -Temps are 80 to 90 degrees. Where should I start with the jetting? Also a new top-end so should use my usual 40:1 ratio or should I use around 24:1 for the first tank?

I've been on here before for jeting help but that was when I had an airbox and pro flow, now I have two 3in x 4in pod filters not K&N though, not sure of brand right now but the are blue in color. What size jets should I start with now, I have a stock stroke, bored 40 over, head milled 20 thousandths, boost bottle, boyseen rad valves and reed cages, tors eliminated, stock 26mm carbs with pods only, got rid of complete air box? Elevation is about 370 ft and temps are around 80 to 90 degrees. Also I have an almost brand new Pro Design Pro Flow Filter adapter plate that mounts inside your stock airbox if anyone is interested in it, its the one that accepts the oval shaped pro flow filters and the oval K&N filters. Thanks for your help Also do I need to get some outerwears for my new filters?

also my elevation is 370 ft and it is about 90 degrees

What will the compression be on my stock stroke 65mil banshee with my head shaved 20 thousandths using wiseco pro lite pistons?

Magic Racing it is, finally got to the shop with my head and jugs today, had the cylinders measured and he said I can deffinatly go ahead and order the 65mm ones, also had the head milled 20 thousandths.

I just got off the phone with my builder and he said he would mic the cylinders to see how fat I would have to bore it before I order the top-end kit, he is charging $25 to mill the head and $60 to bore it, do those prices sound good?

Is it possible to polish my black toomey header to a nice shiny chrome like finish? I polished the T5 logo on them about a week ago and it looks great I was just wondering if I could do the entire thing. Also is there any type of paint that will stay on the header without burning off in 2 seconds? Thanks for your replies

I know I've already asked what size jets I should start at but that was when my carb slides were in backwards so I just want to start from a bare carb and go from there. I have also tore down my top-end to have it bored to 65mm and mill my head down about 20 thousandths. OK so I'm at 370ft elevation and the temp is around 75 to 90 degrees now,I have toomey t5's, boyseen rad valves and reed cages, pro flow filter and adapter with no air box lid and a boost bottle. With that said what all sizes of main and pilot jets should I order, the only jets I have are some 280 mains and some 25 pilots, also what clip should I start my needle on? Also what pistons would you recommend? Thanks for your help

Rebuilding my shee because when I removed my head to have it milled I realized I could move my pistons form side to side more than I think I should be able to, so whats a good top-end kit anyone would recommend for my shee, I need a whole kit-pistons-pins, rings, circlips,(needle bearings), and all the necassary gaskets? It currently has wiseco 64.75 -.030 over pistons in it so I will need some 65mm pistons to bore the cylinders to, as for the head milling, about how much would you recommend I take off? I was thinking about 20 thousandths but I'm not sure? All that is done to it is t5 pipes, boyseen rad valves and reed cages, boost bottle, pro flow filter and adapter with no airbox lid- I'm at 370 ft elevation and temps around 80 to 90 degrees now.