RedRustler

i have a cub with ,4mil long rod, 34 kunis, straight cuts, hinsonbasket, lockup, 17,39 gearing,+6 swinger,tdr head with 190lbs comp. cpi pipes i mainly asphalt drag but i dont have any problems with it in the trails the thig is a torque monster i think when you put 38 carbs and something like shearer pipes is when all that bottom end goes away

i have wsm pistons in my bike now and i dont have any complaints to gripe about. and also if you have standard cylinders the wsm pistons have a third intake hole in them that lets the wristpin get more lubrication. and they have bigger windows than wisecos bigger windows with the third window ='s better flow

i have the same problem with my pipes. and as for the different size outlets if you notice the chambers are different size's also it is probrobly why

Ok guys i finished breakin in the bike. But when i put the 34 mm carbs on unless i am w.o.t it breaks up bad when i try to just cruise around what could this be? cool head 19cc domes stageIV intake mani's, no boost bottle 50 over bore 34mm kunis filters on carbs air screw 1 1/2 out/ needles third from top/ 320 mains v-force reeds timing advance +5 i had it at plus 2 and the same thing happend 16,40 sprokets cpi pipes i had the mixture screws at 2 1/2 with same results at idle it doesnt really smoke but when it breaks up it acts like the choke is on do you think i need to up the slow speed jet? i am in miami florida @sea level

it could be piston slap but not likely. did you over heat the bike on the trails? or getting on the clutch hard on the trails and now you have a clutch housing knock due to the rubber fittings behind the clutch basket

you also need to pull the slides out turn them up side down and make sure you didnt install your throttle cable holder backwards . if you did you will see a hole on the bottom of the slide which makes it suck to much air. i installed the moose direct caps and cables and it works very well remove your air box and filters so you can see well into the carbs make sure your slides both work at the same exact time with adjust ments made from the cap tops then i would over set the idle a little then back it down to your liking. just dont adjust your idle from the thumb lever .

what stage is this port job or can we even tell by the picture?

i am going to build my motor this weekend i daont have the cash to get the t5's or the cpi pipes so for now i am going to have to stick with my fmf fattys. anything special i should do or will the fattys work fine for now? full race port, vforce reeds 34 mm kunis cool head with 19 cc domes 3 degree timing advance

ok my new set up is going to be full race port, i seen the cylinders today it is a very nice port job 50 over bore pro design intake's v force 3 reeds toomey pipes 15/38 sprokets k/n filter 3 degree timing advance cool head with 19 cc domes i am at sea level i was thinking of starting out with 330 main jets. is this a reasonable size to start?? i will be running av gas withyamalube

i use NGK BR8ES they work the best for me. I have used the B8ES but i was not happy with them. What are the resistor plugs??

My mods are as follows stock carbs with 270 jets @ sea level V-force reeds and pro design manifolds and boost bottle/ not sure about spacers adjustable timing plate at + 2 1/2 degrees FMF fattys/ switching to T5 toomeys that i already have K&N filter with lid off of air box 15/40 sprokets moose throttle cable and carb cap kit with idle screws BR8ES ngk plugs I run 93 octane with klotz r 50 stock cylinders bored 30 over What i will be adding are a set of 20 over cylinders with a full race port, cool head with either 19 or 20 cc domes. the bike that they are coming off of has been running for the last 4 years with no problems what so ever he is running them with 30 mm carbs and AV gas and castrol synthetic 2 stroke race oil i guess

My buddy is building a cub stroker motor and i am going to pick up the cylinders and cool head with pistons for a great deal. But my shop guy says that the motor has to be run with av gas or race fuel. I think he said it was a full race port with either 19 or 20 cc domes he was running 28 bored to 30 mm carbs would or should this setup run this type of fuel?

What is the difference between the 2 carbs i can get a set of new 34 mm pj for 259 from alba is this a good price?