Walleye

Just went out there yesterday, Sat april 29th, had so much fun! Me and my friends plan to go back there this weekend, its 2.5 hr drive for us from Rochester, NY. So, anybody want to join and follow us from our location and others meet up there? post here with any questions or anything to say! link is http://www.majestictrails.com

carbs are in sync bowls are on the correct carb all jets, mains, pilots etc are the same slides are in the right way i have stock air box, normal 1 into 2 setup with kn filter, no lid, reed spacer i even tried opening the gas cap removed fuel filter did so many things, it still runs only on left while sitting, and idling, only way to fire up right is to choke, but then that kills the left. how do i tell is by the pressure coming out of the muffler, and the temp of the pipes. right is always cold, colder than outside temp when idling for long time. so i gave up, and took it for its first ride on the new motor. This is the strangest thing i have ever owned, it ran so perfectly fine, nice powerband, strong bottom end, lifts the front easily in 1st gear at half throttle. but the high power seemed low and sluggish in a little way, with 300 jets, and i swtiched to 280 jets, its much better. went out for a hour ride, pulled plugs out and theyre all brown like a perfectly roasted marshmallow. Now heres where me and my friends are still stumped with is why does it only run on left at idle??? it kinda bothers me. But we think its how it is designed. SO is it actually supposed to only run on left at idle? I mean it runs great, i even tried to start it with the right spark plug wire off, it wont start at all. So what is going on here?

petcock looks fine, it flows alot fuel no problem. i just tore apart the carbs and cleaned it all out and blow air in every single possible port, put it back in, replaced fuel lines, and rerouted the lines, fired it up, still the same damn problem. choke off, the left runs (the side with the choke assembly) runs fine, but nothing is running on right, pull choke full, left fades and same time right fires and runs, close the choke completely, right fades, as left fires up and runs. pull the choke half way left still runs, and the right will pop and miss. I have no clue what the problem is. when i was looking at the carb, the right does not have a straw, the little thin copper tube sticking out of the bottom of the carb, not the bow, the bowl has one which is angled. and the left carb has one sticking out of the bottom and on the bowl too. is there supposed to be one on the right as well? i thought it was not there due to that theres no choke assembly on that side. I even replaced the choke tube between the carbs, no differece. im thinking of buying a spare right carb from a motorsport store where they are currently tearing down a banshee to part it out. or should i get left carb?

Okay im at school, and i let my friend fire up my shee at home, and do the choke trick, when he fired it up both cyl fired and ran for a sec then the right faded out, he tried the choke and the right fired up and left died out, let go of choke and left fired up and right faded away and died. It keeps on alternating.. wtf is going on? is it playing mind games with me now? lol my thought is just tear down both carbs and clean it all over again even tho it is already clean.

i just put it together wed last week, didnt get it fired up until yesterday due to the stupid tors and its senstivity to tight throttle adjustment. havent even put it in gear yet. will try the choke trick first thing and if all else fails including the breather tube. then i will tear down the carbs again and clean it out again with cleaner and this time blow air cause i didnt the last time. it looked so clean though. will know more tomorrw but keep the suggestions coming in! thanks

umm the carb is totally clean, washed and cleaned it out dry before installing it in after building up the top end. i have 300 main and 27.5 pilots, i cleaned the pilot port clean with carb choke cleaner. should be clean. i will try the choke trick tomorrow. doubt it makes a difference.

Now when i start it, the left cylinder will run, and the right wont. then later after another start, the same thing happened. so my friend figured that the fuel hose on the right was kinda pinched too much. so i replaced it, and now the right cyl runs, but the left does not. so i go ahead and replace the left fuel line, and now the left runs but not the right??? wtf is going on? now only the left will run after a few restarts. Sparks read out fine, blue sparks. on both sides. i even tried to switch around the spark wires and tors wires, didnt make a difference. Right now my fuel lines are uneven length. that was how it was when i got it. so i am thinking maybe the lines have to be equal length? and if that is true, then the right cyl is the one with shortest line. about 1 inch in difference, maybe more shorter than the left one. well if it is true, then the short one should be getting fuel before the long one would. and that theory isnt true right now. and i do see fuel in both lines. what could the problem be? carb related or fuel line related? I just put on brand new fuel filter too.

how will i be able to do that? get tors elmination kit somewhere? if so, is it possible to disconnect it right now? because it will give spark still when its disconnected.

So after a week long of trying to figure out why its not getting spark after rebuild the topend, i checked continuity on almost every wire! So i took the tors apart and checked around on it, and checked continuity and no resitance in one. and tried to fgure it out and found that the throttle wasnt fully closing, and the throttle cable was too tight, so i loosened it and viola it got sparks! i never touched that. didnt quite get it why that happened. but at least now i know what to do next time! That thing is very picky! All is good and running good, will actually take it for a ride tomorrow instead of parking it and idling.

http://www.stillfree.com/wmv/Marc_Ecko_Tag...AirForceOne.wmv if thats real, damn good ninja skills! lol

Other way is if you have a mig welder around you, you can get a old nut and make sure the hole is same size as the broken bolt in there, and place it on top of it, and weld the nut all filled up, let it cool down completely until you can touch it. and then use a socket and remove it! viola!

Thanks guys yes i measured it at the very top of the piston, and then measured the bottom of the skirt, and thats .014" difference. I did some calculations last night, and the overall total bore i need to bore to is 65.006mm which is 2.559" so it all makes sense now. i realized that the piston will expand when it gets hot, and the top part of the piston is the hottest part of the piston. to that guy who asked about the bottom of the piston would not fit is that i tried to see how much room there would be when i try to put the piston in by the bottom of the skirt in first. thats what i meant by. I will go ahead today and bore it to 2.5585" and leave out .0005 for honing. a machine shop told me that if its a steel ring, i am okay to use 280grit stone as wiseco states on their manual. but he said that if its a moly ring, then i am to use 525 stone. I'm not sure if my rings are moly or steel... it came with the piston kit. He also said that if i use 280 stone, i am to leave .001 for honing, if i am to use 525 stone, i have to leave up to .0005" for honing. and yes i use precison tools, i do have dial bore gauge. i will recheck ring part number and see if it is 2.559.

I just got 65mm wiseco pistons, and im a 3rd year machinist at my college, and i am boring the sleeves then hone it to install wiseco pistons. the problem is that i measured the ring clearance, and bored to that spec and left .0005th out for honing. It fits fine but not entirely, just only 1/4 of the top fits, the bottom of the piston will not fit. i measured the piston, and it is from the top to bottom, .014 inches difference!!! wtf. is that normal or not? if not so will wiseco replace the pistons even though i installed the rings on already?

Im considering to mill my head, is it possible to go down to 20cc or 21 cc? i just want to keep on pump gas 93 and 94 is the highest here. I could possiblity do it in my school's machine shop. im a 3rd year machinist. it depends on the clamps and fixture they have that i can use. But i would feel safer taking it out to a local machine shop due to that they would have better fixture than i would have.

i can knife edge it pretty well if i take my time. what do you mean by transfers? u mean by knifing it? and enlarging exhaust ports by on the jugs or both jugs and pistons? per porting specs of what?

Is it safe to polish the combusion dome on the head? and is it good idea to polish th exhaust ports? i know its ideal on 4 stroke, but for 2 stroke will it help? Also how about knife edge the intake part where it divides? i do that on my head of my car. I got wiseco 65mm pistons, got the balanced kit with gaskets for 200 bucks. should be getting it tomorrow or wednesday. gotta check with a local machine shop to check prices and appointment. hopefully to get it back running by friday. I also got 280 to 300 mains and 27.5 and 30 pilots. the shop told me for this kind of area, i do not need 310 or bigger. elevation is about 550 ft. just checked it out today. got a box of 10 BR8ES so it should be good enough for tuning and chopping it up to ensure proper jetting. hopefully it all goes good. I've read some threads on breaking in new top end. but im wondering what jets should i start off with for the break in. i got Klotz R50 oil, so should i run 32:1 or 40:1 for break in? any other suggestions are welcome.

Today i went ridding, saw a muddy trail, so i went thur it and it was fine, until i got ahead and saw another muddy spot but looked more like swamp, but with many tracks on it. so i decided to go thur it and got stuck like 10 to 15 times. I was all soaked in mud and water! my boot was filled with water! lol it was fun in some way though. Later on i found a field with good black mud, went thru it all with no problems. until then my throttle only could go half, and the engine would just rev up and down on its own when im in gear. does that in all gears. i think the carb is dirty, but how could it get in there, i didnt even get it submerged in the swamp or the mud at all, just got splashed thats all. after i washed it off with power washer, i didnt find anything disconnected or broken. tomorrow im going to remove the carbs and clean it all out. i was wondering if anybody has the same problem before? and has any tips on what to resolve it, and any reason why the throttle only will go half way?

Me and a friend with 250R went out for 2 hour ride today, so much fun and im loving it already! I did a 6th gear wot run and it was short, but the plugs looked good, a bit brown on the right piston, and it was kinda black on the left one due to bad rings and low compression. did check it again after a hour or so of run, and it was still brown. so its safe for now. temp was about 43 degree out. i was able to keep up with my friends 250r i wonder what it will be like with new top end and perfect compression, and correct jets.

Today i finally got it to idle!!! but it idled so high a few times, had to pull the choke on if it idled really high to bring it down to a lower rpm while i adjusted the idle screw on the TORS. It would sometimes rev up on its own, and then goes back down and slowly idles down to proper rpm but sometimes it would die. but now its a bit better but still high. took it for a spin, and the air screw is 1/2 out, thats the only way to get it to idle. will work on it more tomorrow to try and get the idle as low as possible. kinda feels like it was at 2500 rpm. but it runs great! had fun on few passes on the road. Hopefully this weekend it will be in the 40's like high 40's. will it be ok with the 250 jets and 25 pilot in the 40-50 deg weather? the needle jet we dropped the clip one line lower. still one more line to go.

Wow thanks guys! that was helpful, better than what i have found lol how about sites that sell jet kit in a box, instead of having to buy one by one, i think that would save me more money that way?

Sorry if this has already been discussed, but im new here and with the banshee. im wondering if theres a good site anybody can give to me that i can look for stuff like piston kit, rebuild kit, jets, and many more? thanks

Ummm. today after i got home, me and my buddy got into working on it, put the carbs back in, but before that we checked the pilot jet, and its stock one, 25. We fire it up with the air needle at 1 1/2 turns out, it fires up, but will not idle, and have to keep on the gas. choke is still on. as i played with the idle knob, it just unexpectly revved up so highly. we had difflicuties tuning it. later we found out that the left plug is fouled. We put 2 new ones, but i didnt check the plugs because it was in the same boxes as the BR9ES are in. so i think it has BR7ES in now. it runs fine, but still will not idle, both cyl are running. Were having such hard time tuning it due to less experience tuning 2 carbs at once. We stopped because it was getting late. Were going to try it out again tomorrow and try to get it to idle, then work on the low end power. if nothing works, i will have to wait until i get bigger jets and pilot jets. after that if nothing works, rebuild is due. btw it has k&n filter too.

So i went out to check it out, when i got there, it was so clean, and looked so badass! so i took it for a test ride, it seemed strong and nice, but not so quick and responsive as my friends 250r. when i got back to the guys house, it died out on me for no reason. It was like 30 degree out. the guy had no clue what jetting was in there. it just would not run on its own unless the choke was on. Cant even start it up without choke. choke must be on most of the time. So we got permission from him to do compression test. it turns out 90-93 psi on left cylinder, 110ish on the right cylinder. The left smokes more than the right. It has FMF fattys and silencer. The guy's orginal price is 2750, i tried to negoiate with him for 2,000 due to that the top end needs rebuilding soon. the price ended at 2,500. Bought it, took it home. Tried to run it, and still needs choke on. Low end power is poor. everytime i try to start 1st, i need alot of gas to get it to go without killing it. Clutch seems very very late. Me and my friend took the carb apart, and before that we had to take off the plastic rear fender off, and jeezbus that guy put red thread locker on almost all of the allen screws that fasten the fender on. and it was a bitch to remove it. Anyways back to the carbs, we found out that the air screw is set for the left, set at almost 1/4 turns, the right is almost 3/4 turns. Main jets are 250. I'm not sure of the pilot jets, and what the needle jet are set at yet. We tried so hard to remove the needle jet and no success. will try again tonight after i have done some reading on the bansheehq forums. The guy ran it with that setup all summer, never rode in the winter. The choke will not stay in place, have to hold it. 40 bucks for a new one yikes!!! What do you guys suggest me to tune it for now until i am able to get new rebuild stuff, might go with forged pistons and bore it a bit. I am in Rochester, NY, elevation is estimated 1100 to 1300. weather ranges from 20-30 sometimes 40 degrees. its going to get warm sometime later in a week or few. I just ordered 190 to 220 jets. but after reading a little bit, i have seen some people run even high as 300! wow, most average i have seen are 260-280. but thats for cold weather. I guess i might as well go to the dealer and buy some bigger jets than 220 or 250. does anybody run twist throttle setup? are there kits for banshees with tps? Oh also the guy said he is running 32:1 ratio. I am going to shoot for 40:1 or maybe i should stick with 32:1 for now with the old motor? Thanks