Walleye

why tear down a such nice almost perfect condition banshee that all you need is just gas and oil, and your ready to rip the trails! no thanks tho, its either sell or keep.

2,200 and its yours!

2300??? cmon help me out! i just really want a snowmobile instead of a atv beacuse ive grown up with a sled. will consider trade for arctic cat F7 firecat and some cash depending on the condition of tthe sled.

I'm suprised no one here is interested. its such a nice beautiful machine and i would love to see it to good hands.

Its on ebay right now. i also put up 2,300 buy it now, it will be gone once someone bids on it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...p;rd=1&rd=1 by the way the compression is 135psi.

forgot to add the pictures it wont let me edit so i had to make another post.

2000 Yamaha Banshee bored out to 370cc less than 10 hrs maxxis razr rear tires 1/2 life left nerfs FMF Fatties FMF core silencer case saver White Bros boost can several assorted jets (mains and pilots) TORS elmination kit installed shock cover full skid protector I really want 3,000 for it, but i am going to ask for 2500 or best offer, might go low but im tight on 2500, just make some offer and i will see from there. its a excellent machine, was maintained very well, i love it, but i found something else that i have my eye on and want to get rid of it to get that cash. my loss is your gain! PM me or post here, or email me at [email protected] It is located in Rochester, New York

were tearing it all down to its very last bit today!

yes u can disconnect the tors wires from the carbs and then disconnect the tors wire from the tors control unit under on the frame just on the left side. its a little box thing on the left of where the coil is.

well now both sides warm up the same and both have same back pressure. were still stuck on whats wrong with it. we accidentally started it with no carbs on and it ran for 5 second and then died. so if it ran without carb and did not rev up widly high, then its got to be the timing is off or the crank or rods are damaged?

well, we just got his jugs bored and honed to 65.25mm and installed it, well heres the story, he bought it a month ago or less, and it was in non running condition. got it for a good price, knowing of its condition, being stolen and never run for 1 year. we found the compression out of whack so low, we rebuild the topend. but now when we get it started, keep in mind theres no main switch, no kill switch, no tors, no throttle switch on it, its all bypassed, as it fires it sometimes will idle, sometimes wont. and as we hit the gas it just bogs and sounds like a helicopter, does not rev at all, the rpms seems to like have risen maybe 500rpm thats all. the carbs spit out fresh fuel, (no air box or filter installed for testing) the right cylinder from seat postion is getting good vaccum, than the left one, but the left pipes are much warmer than the right pipes, actually the right pipes arent even warm at all. but the right muffler has better pressure than the left muffler. Plus it kinda sounds like something is gettting thrown around inside somewhere sometimes. We cant actually pinpoint what it is. We re checked all the wirings that the previous owner messed with. everything seems properly bypassed. we even tried fresh fuel, and removed the choke tube, nothing made a difference. heres another thing, the shee came with 2 heads, one stock, one is .020 shaved. both of the right domes have chips like it sucked something in or broke off the sparkplug electrode arm off and smashed it around. we are thinking possiblity bent rod on the right cylinder, or bad crank. other thing is the woodruff key on the crank for the flywheel, its loose a bit and its got some damage on it from the previous owner forcing it in or something, maybe installed it wrong. Could that be a cause? what are the options we have? or does it actually means the crank or rod is damaged?

yea i was just trying to clear some things up about difference between 4 and 2 stroke, but now i just realized after reading dlnoss's post, i just completely forgot that 4stroke motors usually have o2 sensors, knock sensor and such so that helps the motor to maintain proper tune at desired octane depending on cr. that was what i was looking for because i wasnt thinking abt that before. but now its all good. ill just ride it out now and check it after a tank. so 130 psi is reasonable for my setup?

when i stated 225psi, i was talking about my 1993 Honda Prelude H22A1 2.2L DOHC VTEC 4 cyl motor, its stock compression is 10:1 and i just checked the compression and the max i saw on one cylinder was 225psi, it was from 217 to 225 on all 4 cylinders. and i spoke to other people on a honda forum where its a well known place and most H22A owners run 190 to 230psi and those motors run on 93 octane, why cant 2 stroke run on pump gas (93 octane) above 160psi? I've built Honda auto motors before a few times and those psi are about right.

well it does not ping at all, hes a member at cr500riders.com forum and other people there that have 180 psi and dont ping and run just fine on 93 octane. if 160 or higher isnt good then why is it ok with my honda motor running 225psi on stock motor and 10:1 cr on 93 octane, that part is confusing me.

i just ran out in the garage and checked and its the same length. its stock compression, just at its last bit of bore size wiseco offered, nothing was done to increase the compression.

okay guys i think your getting what im saying wrong in some areas, but thats ok, ill clarify it a bit. i bought my banshee with bad compression like 90 psi, bought 65.25mm pistons, got it bored and honed but it was .003 bigger than what the ring clearance requirement on the box of teh pistons stated from wiseco, 2.569, which the bore of jugs, it measured 2.572 after bore and hone. the 65.25mm pistons at the bottom shows 2.569. i decided it was ok, and rode 10-12 hrs of hard abusive ridding, and the compression after 2 hrs ish of break in showed 135psi. now i thought that since it was .003 overbore than what wiseco specs are, that was the reason i wasnt getting anywhere close to 160 psi. so i decided to get 65.5mm pistons and re do the bore and make sure its exactly 2.579. it turns out when i got the jugs back it was exactly at 2.579" keep in mind this is my 2nd rebuild. before installing the pistons i measured the bottom of the skirts which i try and remember the numbers which is lower, around 2.573 to 2.574 on the bottom of the skirt on pistons. i decided that it was how wiseco did it, and installed it anyways and thought the heat will thermally expand the pistons. but now im thinking if my 1st rebuild the bottom of the skirt on the 65.25mm pistons read 2.569 and then why does the 65.5 mm pistons read .005-.006 smaller than what the number on the box of the piston box stated (which is 2.579). so i figured that those pistons i got were manufacturing mistake, so im not sure if it is, or its how wiseco did it specifically. also i just spoke with my friend a few min ago letting him know what the updates are on my thread, and i told him that some people here stated that anything over 160psi is not safe on pump gas. his CR500 has almost 180psi and hes running 93 octane and 40:1 mix ratio. and its been fine since, and hes getting 160ish psi on his TRX 250R and running 40:1mix ratio on 93 octane. we were wondering why 160 or over is not safe on pump gas while my car motor, which is 2.2l DOHC 4 stroke is showing 225psi on each 4 cylinders and i am running 93 octane. it doesnt make sense to us in some way.

I am at like about 500-700ft elevation. the reason i rebuilt it is because the first rebuild, the bore was .003 too big, and i only got 135psi so i thought why not get next bigger bore wiseco has from 65.25 and make it 65.5 and get the bore exactly right to the requirement for ring clearance which is 2.579" and hope to get the correct psi which i thought would be 160 or more since my other friends have 160-180 on their other 2stroke atv or dirtbikes. but im not sure what the stock psi is on the banshees. I have only run a few laps on the road with the most recent rebuild, and its only showing 115psi while the last one showed 135psi. so i was seeing if that is pretty right and needs to break in more in order to get more psi increase. but i guess i will have to run it more and check again. but my concern is that the piston bottom skirt only showed 2.573 or 4 so thats pretty much .005-.006 under what the ring requirement is. So i was thinking i know that does make a big difference to the psi, than if the pistons were at 2.579 and the bore was at 2.579 it would show up more psi than 115psi. So my question is what psi should i be getting and if i should return these pistons before i put any more wear on it and get the correct skirt sized pistons. or should i just risk it and break it in longer and thenc heck it again? i did it only with throttle open, will need to try with gas on, but i have the tank off when doing the compression check since its much easier to install the gaue that way. only port work i have is knife edged intake dividers, and polished the exhaust ports. thats all. i'm going to recheck the torque. also my H22A1 engine in my Civic shows 225psi all over the 4 cylinders. i have no other gauge to try out, will need to buy.

I got 65.5mm wiseco pistons, and the box says 2.579 bore is needed for ring clearance, well when i got the jugs bored and honed, it was exactly 2.579, and i checked the bottom of the piston skirt, and it read, i forgot the exact number, it was 2.573 or 2.574, so i figured it was fine, and its how wiseco set it up. so i installed it, and did a compression check before starting it, and it was btw 105 to 110 psi. i ran it for a while like 15 - 30 mins and let it cool then another run same lenth down the road. outside temp of the jugs with temp gun read around 13x degree. i rechecked the compression after letting it cool down completely a hr or so later, it reads only about 115 to 117psi. my question is for others who rebuilt with wiseco pistons, did you do compression test before first fire, and then another one after a good run? or check it after breaking it in? what is the proper compression supposed to be with 65.5mm bore and .030 shaved head? thats what i have. My last rebuild with 65.25mm yeild out 135psi and i rebuilt it again after 10-12hrs of hard ridding because i wanted it to be between 160 to 180 psi like other friends have in their 250r and cr500. plus my bore was .003 over when i put in the 65.25mm pistons. now the bore is exactly 2.579 but the skirt reads smaller. so am i supposed to run it for a good few hr or a tank to allow the pistons to thermal expand? or is it not correctly setup? and should i remove the pistons and contact wiseco and get another piston replaced since the bottom of the skirt is not 2.579" which its supposed to be at.

ive been hearing about lectrons, and how much do they usually sell for? btw 32mm to 35mm how can i contact dennis?

I have 65.5mm bored pistons, just recently installed in tonight. also with knife edged intake port, and polished exhaust ports. FMF fatties, FMF pipes reed spacers k&n filter, no lid .030 shaved off head I am looking at to buy bigger carbs, my friend plans to buy my stock carbs. so im wondering which ones to go with? 32mm or 34mm? and which brand? which gives more torque, which gives more topend, or which gives the best overall?

location?

Throttle Override System it prevents if the slides are stuck open, and will shut down the engine or something. i dont know the exact details, it just prevents something like runaway motor. but experienced riders would know what to do, just kill the switch, or slam on the rear brakes.

i removed my tors with tors elmination kit i got off ebay, much better looking and easier to work with. it doesnt increase power at all or hurt anything. tors is only for dumb drivers, rookies. about the vforce reeds, i hear they increase some nice power. some people said different. some say its not worth the money. but i cant really say much on the vforce reeds, since i dont have experience with them yet.

i love my FMF Fatties and FMF powercore 2 muffler, well i have never seen Toomeys or used it. I would say get pipes, muffler, k&n filter, remove the lid for now and get filter sock. bump your jetting too when you mod it. these mods should give good punch! as for tires, i have Maxxis Razr and they work great. Holeshot is good too. If you plan to go over logs, big bumps, rough terrain, i would suggest you to invest in full skid plate and swign arm skid plate, to protect your frame and other compents.

Nobody is interested? im shocked there are a couple in rochester forums that are interested to join me and my friends. cost is 15 a day, 5 a camping night, per person, or 40 annually membership fee, but still 5 per camping night per person. no registration or license is required, just have to sign waiver form.