cdwood37

The thing with castor oil is that it is made from the castor bean and is not petroleum based, it will lube a motor better but it will also gum them up much faster. Castor oils are used primarily on motors that are torn down every 40 or so hours, or race engines. just my two cents i ran motul 800 for three years and now run bel-ray.

how do i go about carb syncing them better?

Ok I know this has probably been gone over but its just a question. I just started my new 421 cub last night and let it warm all the way up and noticed the left pipe wasn't near as hot as the right it would get pretty warm but not as warm the cylinder seems to be firing but i am not sure, i have 35mm pwk airstrykers could i be to lean or rich on one side?

How long of a chain do i need for a plus 4 swingarm?

I am by far not an expert but i would have to agree that it would screw up your port timing because your stroke goes farther past your port, in turn takes longer to get back down to the bottom.

Here is my take on this issue. A banshee with the mods mentioned will have a power band that starts at about 5000 or so, a thumper such as a yfz450 will start at like 3000 or so. The reason a banshee has so much wheelspin is the necessity to rev the motor up to like say 7000 and then dump the clutch at take off in order to get a decent take off therefore you get lots of wheelspin because you are in the powerband right away. A thumper can use its low end torque to get the wheels going with less actual tire speed eliminating the excessive wheelspin. That being said you may lose out of the whole unless the guy you race has no riding skill at all. When your banshee finally hooks up and you are in the powerband you should by all means make up space pretty fast. Race a thumper from like a 3rd gear roll and see who wins guarantee it will be a banshee every time, unless you have no mods and he has every mod.

what kind or carrier do you want? a plus 4 with no bearings done any way you like it could be done for about 175-200 bucks depending on the lenght and how you want it gusseted.

I would do that and probably will but its so much easier to sell the bare swingarms because the pricetag looks so much better when in all reality they will end up spending more in the end just a sales tactic

Yeah thats an excellent price for the cylinders and the crank, you still have to have all the other stuff carbs head reeds timing plate filters intakes the whole nine yards

over a grand? your crazy try over 2 grand, don't lie to him. To go from stock to a cheetah cub you have to have everything carbs,filters a head throttle cables the cylinders a trued and welded crank with pistons and basically everything you can hing of from F.A.S.T racing, which is the best price around it was 2400 bucks. without pipes

i build custom swingarms and need a useless roundhouse carrier and can't seem to get a trashed used one just to use as a template, if anyone has one they want to get rid of i will pay to have it shipped to me.

I have a stock carb setup with boost bottle and 2 into 1 tommey filter stock head and stock crank, also stock swingarm, but i also build custom swingarms so if you need one let me know any size.

I am gonna run a plus three i am building a 421 cub also, The only thing you start to run into is strength. The longer you swingarm is the easier it will be to bend or in some way get tweaked. It all depends on the kind of riding you are doing mostly drag and sand not much jumping then a plus six is great, otherwise a plus 4 is the max i would go.

thanks man thats what i needed

What is the measurement of a standard roundhouse carrier. as far as across the side. for example what size of pipe would it fit into?

You must live where there is not a machine shop for like a thousand miles. If not take your stock hubs to a machine shop and tell them you want ones that fit the same axle splines and then tell them what lug pattern you want them to fit, or you could get an adapter that will go onto the hubs you have. you don't need any fancy fabricators to do this joe down the street with a horizontal mill can make you anything you want. and he could do it in a day if you wanted.

Call Jeff at F.A.S.T. he will hook you up with what you need to make close to 100 hp. He sold me verything i needed for a 4mm stroker cub that is capable of amking 100hp if it is set up right. and you are right the t-6s are crap for a ported motor i have them. He got me everything i needed including carbs filters timing plate cylinders crank pistons o-rings and all gaskets and seals for 2400 bucks which is a great deal, i would go with that its the easiest way to get close to what you want for the cheapest price. you can pm him his screen name is FASTOYS

Which would be better and which one is cheaper to run, of course i have stock right now.

Where can i buy a stainless bolt kit that will do eveything.

Its simple i had a stock banshee with v-force reeds a cool head clamp ons and t-6s ran great for a stock motor i just bought a 421 cub and that will cut about 15 horsepower off my capabilities with the t-6s but i have to save more money to get shearers, planning on more motor mods than get the t-5's

I personally would run k&n clamp ons with outerwears, the outerwears are water proof and you will get better airflow, I think you can get the whole kit for about 100 bucks with the outerwears.

so the dowels should face the carbs and reeds and such, and thats where the ring gap will be

I just bought everything i needed to get a 421 cub motor top to bottom inside and out. Jeff at FAST hooked me up FAT he is great to work with and he knows his shit very well he gave me an amazing price. I highly reccomend him if you want anything banshee done.

they are wiseco

if anyone has a pic on this subject that would be great