bodge

Thanks for your help. will i have to replace the gasket below the cylinders as well or just the head gasket?

I heard it when it was running bad.I would say it was half to full throttel when it was doing the fault.. He has used it about 4 times and between 5 to 10 miles each time. Im going to try it tomorrow and see how it runs. the quad has done about 600 miles in all, so am i best to remove the heads and look?

I sold my 06 banshee to a mate :mad: , it had very little use and was running fine. it has .... alien exhausts carbs jetted for above +4 t/plate v force 3 reeds My so called mate has let me down and returned the quad to me. The problem i have is that he said it started not to run like it used to, it lacks power and and when you give it some throttle it coughs and splutters. i got the quad back today and seams ok now. so could it have been some dirt in the carbs? And if it was carb related could it have done any damage to the pistons ect? Should i remove the heads and have a look or just leave it alone?

Ok guys im thinking of spending some money on my engine. I will have about

I have done just that, Thanks

Will 1.5 inch wheel spacers change the way my shee turns? When doing do-nuts? Do they make my turning circle bigger or smaller? I found it hard to do-nut on the spot at the beach yesterday and the only thing i have done is fitted front spacers.

like Josh says, the hose from the head.

This works great, any one looking for a regulator go for one of these from trailtech. The screw on it lets you set the dc volts output from 11v to 17v. Rewired all the lights so they are earth return to the battery and not the frame and everything is working great. Just need some hid's now

Just got a reply back from Jeff at trailtech.net He says it is a trail tech regulator but with the baja designs logo on. Didnt tell me what the screw was for tho :ermm: ::

It says baja designs on the side of it? you can just see the screw on it.

Hi i think i know where i have gone wrong! I just found this info on trailtech.net. I put all my earts to the frame :baseball_bat: http://www.trailtech.net/ac-dc%20key%20concepts.pdf STEP 4: FLOAT THE GROUND Many AC systems have one lead going from the stator to the lights, and another going from the lights to frame ground. For a DC system, the ground must be floated. DC systems require a continuous circuit and must not be frame grounded. The stator must be rewired to float the ground. You can get a qualified technician to perform the task. It involves unsoldering several leads, possibly winding extra coils (for extra wattage) and soldering it back together. STEP 7: GROUNDING DC systems require a continuous circuit and must not be frame grounded. Proper grounding requires the ground wires connected to the negative terminal on the battery. If the battery is frame grounded it will cause extra voltage fluctuation, prevent the battery from charging, and a larger load will be put on the regulator making it considerably hotter. Light bulbs may flicker or act erratically and most black boxes will simply fail to function at all.

Got a regulator today from trailtech. I know the yellow wires go to the ac wires from the stator red is + dc out black is earth But what is the blue wire for? Also it has like a potentiometer screw on the top, What does this do. Cheers Gaz

Ok thank you i will order one now. Lets hope it does fix my problem. Gary

would it be ok to use a 150w regulator with a 200w rs stator? running stock lights with 55w bulbs.

Ok i removed the voltage regulator and put the flooting wire back on the stator ground and conected my stock regulator back up so it all runs ac volts. All lights work fine so thats the stator that is ok. I still need to know how to test the regulater/rec is it just a bunch of diodes inside? Also do these fail a lot? just its only been on for 2 months . Gary

Is there no one that can help me out? someone must know there way around electrics? I have had another look today and i have noticed that the regulator and the wires to the stator are getting mad hot. what i need to know is how to test the stator disconected from the regulator? Bodge

checked all my wires and can not see anything wrong. can i check the voltage coming from the stator with it running before it goes into the reg/rec ?

This is how i have wired it. http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm could it be my battery thats at fault?

Its on the stock lights front and rear. ?

Can any help me test my rs set up? I have a 200w rs stator flywheel and regulator wired to run dc volts. Using a pc310 odyssey battery. Now its been fine for 2 months but the other night i went out and the lights where very dim, the next day i charged the battery and it seems ok. Left the lights on for 25 mins and the battery stayed at 11.45 volts is this ok ? so im not sure if i have drained the battery i.e. left something on. At idle with the lights on it charges at only 10.45 volts and fast idle up to 12.30 volts Im using standard lights and bulbs. with the lights off it charges between 12volts and 14volts depending on rpm. I have maild RS stators but not had a reply yet with any help.

Hi what volts do you get when at idle with lights on and off? Im having probs charging my battery with the lights on. Gaz

any one up for sending some bits to me from ebay? please mail me at [email protected] for full info.

the vapor is the one to go for,fitted mine last week and its far better than the endurance one that was fitted when i got my shee.

is it same if you have had the bottom end re built?

I have done a search but can only find info on how to fit the kit. What will i gain with this kit? does it effect throttle response?