SDuster11

Bumper and Holeshots are still for sale

Pipes are pending, but pretty sure they will be sold. Carbs have the tors eliminators and are still for sale. The bumper is still for sale nobody has agreed to buy it.

The exhaust is pending right now. I will post if it falls through.

How does 30 sound? The picture used isn't actual pic (doesn't have the DG Logo in center)

Pipes are Pro-Circuit Platinum Pipes

ITP 10" Diameter x 7" Width Rims (2) mounted on ITP Holeshot 23x7x10 DG Front Racing Style Pushbar (Shamrock looking shape) Pro Circuit Pipes/Silencers CLEAN Stock Carb's All for sale PM me with questions

6 degrees? Does that's not to much? Any particular timing plate I should get or not get? Just wanting to make sure. What about octane can I run like 110 octane and be alright? Thanks

5 mil long rod 4 mil stroker with 22 cc NOSS domes, cool head, boyesen reeds, Nology Coil and hot wires, stock carbs w\340 jets, pods, and Pro Circuits. Can I advance my timing? If so how much? I'm running 93 octane at sea level. What do you'l think? Also what should I have my air/fuel screws at? thanks

Looking for a Pro Armor Grab Bar. Also a nice stock front bumper. Thanks email me at [email protected]

Did your old clutch have the tabs on the metal disks? Like the ones you have to stagger on the Tusk' or stock ones. Don't know if that would have any reason not to have any o-rings (lack of a better term) on it...

So would I be okay if I cut the domes .080 of an inch? I have access to a lathe and can get the guy to do it. Will this be okay? How about jetting? What jets should I possibly run and what do I set the needle at? I am just asking for a jumping off point. thanks

How about getting the Jugs/Cyclinders Ported? Since the Plate is "Lame" might as well do it right while it's apart. But I am really wanting to ride this thing. So trying to balance those two is there a place that can do a good porting job in the South Texas Area? Or even in Texas? If not who else? thanks

I already have a Cool Head on it with 22 cc domes. Can I get a set of domes that will already be recessed to accomadate for the 2 mil longer stroke or would I need to machine the step in the head 2 mil? As for the porting does this consist of elongating the intake and exhaust ports 2 mil upwards? Does this have to be done at a machine shop? Or can it be done with alot of patience and a die grinder? thanks

Do you still have to get the head cut when you run that spacer that goes on the bottom side of the jugs? I thought that if you ran that then you didn't have to get porting work done and/or cut the heads. Please remember I am running the Cool Head with 22 cc domes. So if I get the 5 mil long rod and 4 mil stroker with the wiseco 795 series pistons will the spacer work? And what about those carbs? Do I have to get bigger ones? thanks

I am looking at gettting a 5mm long Rod and 4mm stroker setup. What kind of power gains should I see? Will I have to modify my case any? Does it all come together, i'm sure the rods will already be on the crank and then you have to buy the 795 series pistons. If I do this and get the appropiate spacer will my porting be okay? I pulled the domes and they're 22cc domes I know this isn't high comp. what would be a good dome to run with the above listed and 93 octane with the occasional 112? Will I have to change my actual carb's? If so to what? And where are some good places to look at in getting everything? Sorry if i got some things wrong (please jump on and correct me)but I am a FNG to the shee world and wasn't expecting to dive head first into it but under the circumstances might as well make some nice changes to it while he wallet is open.

:shrug: Got a good price and now I know why. Long story short it had been smoking out the right side exhaust and that's after 2 crank case seals. Anyways pulled the motor and found a bent crank. So now its time to spend the money i thought I had originally saved and have a lil fun while i'm at it. Looking at getting a new crank shaft, bearings, seals, and gaskets for sure. But what kind of price should I expect in doing a new crank? Or a long rod? Or Long rod and stroker? The shee is used in the dunes occasionally, but mainly it's gotta compete with my buddies bikes in a all out drag race. Current mod's include: Pro Design Cool Head (dunno what cc does it say it somewhere?), Pro Design Pipes/Silencers, Boyesen Reeds, 270 / 25 Jetting with aftermarket needles, K&N Pods and Outerwears. Planned Future Mods: Timing, Possible different reeds (V-Force 3's) Jetting, Lightened Flywheel, maybe gearing. I would like to keep my carbs just rejet accordingly. I was thinking of calling Jeff at FAST and get some ideas from him but any other suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks Dustin

I replaced the seal and put everything back together. Had some "issues" with the clutch but I'll get to that. Started it up and it was still smoking out the right side exhaust. Just about as bad as it was previously. So I went ahead and ran it and from what other people were saying it stopped smoking nearly as much. I am still running my old silencer packing with was pretty well soaked in oil. New packing coming soon but could it be just blowing out oil from the packing now? Or could it still be from the seal or something else? I believe there is a way to check if the seal is sealing off or not but how do u do it? Clutch "Issue": The clutch boss was ruined because where the springs screw in sheared off and damaged a few things. I found a used clutch boss on ebay for cheap and plan on getting that but should I look at getting anything special for the clutch while I have it apart? I plan on getting reeds soon and the bike already has pipes, cool head, jet's, needles, K&N Clamp on Kit. and I don't want to worry about a slipping clutch with a lil more power. I found some clutch springs on ebay and would these be good? thanks and sorry for the long post http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Barnett-Clu...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-Yamaha-B...1QQcmdZViewItem

Anybody? :shrug:

I know this isn't a very clear pic. Sorry But here's the rundown: When I pulled the seal there were aluminium (i think it was Aluminium) shavings in the seal on the clutch basket side not the motor side. And everything looks fine when pulling off the cover (to expose the clutch) except the part I circled in red in the following pic. That appears to be creating the metal shavings. Can anyone help me out and tell me what this part is or how it is doing this. thanks

Okay I pulled the seal out today without to much trouble. It looked pretty good but there was some Aluminium shavings in the clutch cover area. I believe they were coming from the tranny shifting mechanism. But I don't know what to call the piece it was coming from. I will try to get some pics of it tomorrow. I callled the local Yamaha shop and asked if they had that seal listed here on this thread above and they said that one was discontinued. And the banshee crankcase seal was going to take a week to get here. I'll do that unless there is a quicker way to get one. Any ideas? thanks

Okay that helps out but what all do I have to take off to get to the seal? Does the clutch have to come off? And am I thinking of the right seal as I described in my previous post? And also exactly what all will I need to purchase before I start this? Thanks and any help would be great. The sooner I can do this the happier I'd be b\c my buddies are having a heck of a time riding with me b\c i'm smoking them out. Also about how long (roughly) would this take? thanks, Dustin

Just got my shee and I have ironed out most of the bugs. But I still have ALOT of smoke on the right side exhaust. So according to what I have read it's the Crank Case Seal. Now I would like to replace it but am having trouble figuring out exactly what all I have to do in order to do it. As a side note my Clymers hasn't come in yet so I'm not that big of a tite ass. This is currently my train of though: Pull off the clutch cover and the crank case seal is just on the right side (as your looking at it or on the crankshaft). Can I simply pull the crank gear and or maybe the clutch and then change out the crank case sea? Thanks and set me straight.