bansheezer

Yeah the only problem i can see with a shee is that all the power comes on at once (powerband) so it makes me kinda scared of flippin it right over backwards, but like you guys say ill just have to practice and practice, thanx alot guys

How can you ride a decent wheelie on a banshee without goin over or not gettin it high enough? Just curious if there is tricks.

why does everyone have to argue about this can't we all just sit back and enjoy a nice relaxing beer GIT R DONE

Hell Yeah!!!! Say no to drugs, that way you'll have more time to drink

Trust me all my wheeler has is pipes and filter, it is the second fastest wheeler in town, 1st is a more modded banshee, but i dont want it to blow up, my bros a good mechanic and he said don't touch that damn motor cuz as soon as you do that they loose reliability. The other banshee in town has blown up 3 times and its 8 years newer than mine, mines never been touched as far as the motor goes and its stayin that way unless i move somewhere where i can actually ride with some competition, some of the wheelers i ride with are 4x4s, 200x 3 wheelers, 185s 3 wheelers, tecate 250, honda 250x's, and the most competition is a 450r and I beat that when my wheeler was bone stock, they are not that impressive, i would never buy one, banshees kick ass!!

I just wanted to make a post to tell you guys how much hell 2 carbeurators has put me through since i got my shee. When i bought it the bike would start but idle high and it wouldn't adjust, i took them apart several times and made posts asking questions which was always a great help, but anyway after at least 5 times i found that i was missing my choke tube, the slides were in backwards, the needles were set wrong, the float levels were way off, and finally after all that it wouldn't start for shit. After that i got my new exhaust and it came with a good set of directions for the new jetting and as i was looking through that i noticed it said if your float bowls were mixed up the choke wouldn't work because one carb has a cross drilled hole in the bottom of the float bowl to allow gas in for the choke, i check that out and neither bowl had one, turns out i had to get the right bowl for it and now it starts right up runs like a dream. I just thought this would be some valuable info for people that are havin these problems. Sorry for the long post.

A-arms are fine the wheels are bent tho, got um at an atv salvage yard and they said they straight, fuckers

Well i ditched the reservoir and it seems to be fine, no leaks and runs the same, also as soon as i got my new toomeys on last night i had the cops called on me within 5 minutes but luckily my buddy led them away from my house, thanx for all the info guys

My front wheels tend to wobble when i go down the road and at high speeds it scares me, does anyone else have this problem and could it cause a something to go wrong

just got my new toomey t-6s on and all i can say is holy shit, from ridin a stock shee for 6 months and goin to a piped shee it is a dramatic change, i never expected that and im very happy with the appearance and they are fuckin loud

thanx alot guys for your help

what do u mean look at the ground, im not sure what u mean

i just bought a new toomey exhaust kit with the 2:1 air filer box replacement and now i don't know where to mount the antifreeze reservoir, anybody else with this kit please let me know how you did it, thanx

I dont plan to do any other mods, i dont want to sacrafice reliablity, plus i dont live anywhere where ill need more power, i could see if i lived near sand dunes but im not even remotely close, i mainly ride in gravel pits, gravel and tar roads so i think it will work out

I was wondering how much of a difference you guys think these pipes will make my shee it is bone stock mechanically as of now, it hauls for a stock shee, my buddy has a brand new 05 450r and we just raced this weekend and he clocked his at 80 he said, too my suprise i beat him by a few mph top end but he had a stronger bottom end. I was laughing when i beat him since i paid 1500 for my shee which is 15 years older than his and took his new 6,000 dollar wheeler, i don't think he'll be able to touch me after i get the t-6s on, what do u guys think?

the topend looks like new so im leanin towards the jets being plugged up, its not getting gas, it fires right up if i put a little in the cylinders. I will let you guys know how it goes thanx

My banshee only will run on the left cylinder and they both get good spark and gas, if i rev it up high the other one kicks in sometimes, I talked to a good mechanic and he said it needs a new topend and most likely its from pull starting it, he said alot of the times when you pull start them the topends will go. I dont see how it could need a rebuild i just did another compression test and both cylinders have 110 - 115 psi, if anyone knows anything about this please let me know thanx.

ok i am almost positive i have found the problem, i was told to check my choke tube for leaks and as i was looking i couldn't see it, turns out it must have came off sometime and hopefully thats why its hard to start and has been running like shit, how much should the compression be on a stock banshee? it has never been touched and its 16 years old but it doesn't have a whole lot of hours on it either

Well my slides in the carbs were backwards, i just switched them around so the cutouts are facing the airbox, Im not sure where the idle should be at so it wouldn't start by kicking it, i just got a pull down the road and with or without choke it wouldn't even fire so i gave it about have to 3/4 throttle and pumped it a little and it fired on and off, i pulled in the clutch and it revved up high for a second then it just died right after that, i did it 3 or 4 times, i know there is no airleaks cuz i never took that stuff apart and it ran fine before i ever touched the throttle bodys on top of the carbs or the airscrews, everything is how it should be except for the idle screws at this point so i dont really know what to do, i turned the idle up and down and it just did the same thing, any suggestions? o and it also backfired once a little bit, the compression read 100 psi in both cylinders when i checked it too

yeah the air screws, that is what it calls for in the manual but ill see if there in a bind and put the needle back to its original position instead of keeping it on the leaner position

could this cause it too idle to high and not be able to turn it down?

Ill pull the carbs but I was also wondering if the slides on the carbs are supposed to go all the way down if you look in at the airbox when the idle is turned completely down? Mine are still up a little bit and i also heard it could be because it is to lean, I have the needle set one notch leaner than stock

My banshee starts up and idles way to high, but the idle is turned all the way down on the carbs and on the throttle, i dont know what else to do, please help, the tors is unplugged also

It is completely stock, it ran perfect until i had to pull off the throttle bodys and replace the idle adjuster screws because one stripped out and one was broken, I put it back together and pulled the pilot screws out so check if they were plugged and put them back in 2.0 turns out like suggested for stock, I think one of them is plugged and also only one of the pipes was smoking the other didn't blow any blue smoke at all, Ill pull the pilot screws tonite and blow them clean and see if that helps, the tors is unplugged also

Is it possible that if a banshee is running too rich it would idle but as soon as u hit the gas it wants to die and bog, its spraying oil out of the exhaust all over my garage floor its so rich, i just leaned it out but now i cant get it to start but i was wondering if any of you knew, o and exactly where should the idler screws be set at on a stock banshee