spunmonkey

I read an article years ago that did a test on the F1 cars probally the same one that was posted. It had all the specs and also said the top mph of each gear. The article said the that these cars would do a over a 100 mph in first gear. They are geared more like modern sportbikes. The ZX-10 does like a 105 or so give or take a few mph in first gear at redline. Even though they are geared the way they are they have so much HP.

I just noticed the same problem with mine. I got a 2 into 1 with a 38mm keihin carb. I finally got to ride normal after breaking in my motor. So i started with a 190 main 50 pilot and middle setting on the clip. Big flat spot on the mid range so i moved the clip. Cleaned up the flat spot. Still a little rich on the plugs. Ran a tank of gas through then put a 48 pilot in. Much peppier. I liked the way it ran. The left cyclinder sounded wierd though. So half way through the tank pulled the plugs the right was brown carbon fouled and the left had a white spot on it with carbon on the rest. I was used to looking at oil fouled plugs with the 2 38mm carbs when i trail ride. So now i am lean on the left. But i have noticed that it seems like it smokes more than normal. I now run 32:1 with mercury quicksilver oil. I get it free from work we buy it in 55 gallon drums. But i see that i have oil built up on the end of my pipes too. I still havent done a WOT test or rechecked the compression to make sure everything set right with the new rings. Gonna mess with it some more this weekend.

Cut it off. I cut off all the brackets not needed on my bike. And later down the road if you want to put them back on you can weld them back in place. No regrets.

Ah thanks for the input guys. I am not really to concerned with HP numbers so i dont think i will be getting that intense on the intake. Just mainly using the old ass dyno. What feels to run better in my conditions. Oh i have a bored 36mm carb on there. Its bored to a 38mm. Thanks guys.

Well last weekend i finally started up my bike. Had a little dyslexic episode hooking up my ignition. Anyway my shee fired up first kick after straightening everything out. My fresh motor and reeds and homemade 2 into 1 intake. Well after taking it around the block a few time just trying to get it up to operating temp i checked out my intake and it was cool to the touch. Does anyone elses intakes feel cool to the touch while the bike is at operating temp? I am still expirementing with the length and diameter of the intake runners to see what runs best. For 10 bucks worth of aluminum and a day of my time i am not to concerned with making a few to test to see what works best for me. Dustin

I have heard of people using two different size pistons before. I was told as long as they are the same weight there should not be a problem. We are not talking a 80 over on one side and stock on the other. I read on trinity's website that most people have a problem with one cyclinder being slightly richer than the other. Good to see you found your problem though. Or one being leaner than the other. However you wanna look at it.

Well today i finally got my bike running. I wasnt getting spark before so i took the ignition coils off and cleaned them and sanded all my grounds down to shiny bare metal, then put new 7mm wire in my new ngk plug boots trying to eliminate stuff. Then i also decided to take another wire and run it directly from my cdi to the cyclinder head studs to make another ground connection instead of using the motor to the frame and the cdi to the frame. After putting it all together and kicking til my foot hurt i looked at the wires from my two coils around the flywheel and wonder why i had the right cdi going to the stator coil that was closest to the front and vice versa for the other side. So i switched them and first kick it came to life. So basically my dumbass had the wrong coil going to the wrong cdi the whole time. unbelievable. Well i am happy and now tomorrow i can put it all back together again and ride.

I use simple green on everything the bottle will reach. And then grab some WD-40 for any stubborn grease like when i flip my bike and oil leaks out that overflow tube all over everything in its path. Then a bit more simple green and soap to finish. Some steel wool on the metal and polish it up with some mothers cleaner stuff and every once in a while i will bust out the buffer and do the plastics.

Thanks guys. I have been slacking on getting my parts, i went to try and fire her up and got tired of kicking. Turned out i have no spark. So now i gotta pull my cdi boxes off and make sure i got all the paint of the frame so i am getting a good ground. Nothing to hard to fix i just gotta find time. After looking at how clean it is again i am almost worried about taking her out almost. Here is a pic from a typical ride with my buddy just this time i had the camera with me when we got back to his house.

Full bore on the front and stock plastics on the rear.

Here is the before pic. Original powder coating. Now the current look still not done yet. This is a single stage urethane paint over catalized primer. I still need to get a few things. I am gonna order some red outerwears instead of the yellow. I need a longer throttle cable and one for a single carb. And some new zirc fittings for the a arms i painted over them got lazy. I went through and lubed every joint and bearing. Inspected everything and torqued all the bolts to factory specs. And last here is a installed pic of my homemade 2 into 1 intake. I havent started the bike yet so not sure how its gonna work. I need a longer throttle cable.

I am gonna say the shake is from your tires more than anything else. You have knobby off road tires that you are running on pavement so that to start is gonna make a little shake. Also the tire are not balanced either unless you did them yourself. So your unbalanced tires are now making things worse. Dustin

Try and gear it around your riding style and motor power. Are you gonna run really small tires like 18" or some bigger ones like 22"? If so that will affect your overall ratio if your gonna go by numbers. I personally went 15/40 so i can ride in 2nd gear pretty much the whole time i trail ride. I am not constantly shifting like other have said with the smaller front sprocket. General rule of thumb is 1 tooth in the front is close to 3 teeth in the rear. Without getting technical thats the easiest to remember. Dustin

Warm soapy water and compressed air to dry them is what the service manual recommends. And then i use marvel mystery oil with the white towel trick to make sure there is nothing left in the cyclinders. Dont use synthetic oils cause you will never properly break in your motor. There is not enough friction to properly seat the rings. Just my 2 cents.

It took me and my buddy about 6 hours between figuring out how long the runners needed to be and how much room i had to spare in the frame. I had made a jig for the reed bolt pattern the day before but getting the angles cut on such a short piece of aluminum made for a fun afternoon. And then a lot of grinding to make sure both runners were as close as possible in length. That was our first time welding aluminum so dont laugh at the bead. Then i spent about another two hours and a sanding wheel smoothing up the insides of intake. It is definately a prototype but hell i only 7 bucks tied up into it. So if i need to lengthen or shorten the tubes on another one its not a expensive R&D. And then at the end of the day i feel better cause i made it. I still havent had time to put anything back together so no new pics. Maybe by next weekend i should have it done and then i will post some pics. I need to figure out the jetting still though. I had gotten some advice (thanks) but i also need to break in my motor too. So that will be fun not knowing if my jetting is right and also not being able to reem the crap out of my bike til my rings seat properly. So i plan on running rich and eating up plugs for a few tanks of gas. Dustin

Ok thanks. Little bit bigger main than i would have tried but there is gonna be only one carb now. I will let ya know how everything is when i get it running.

I just put a tube in my tire when it stopped holding air. No adverse affects that i know of from it.

Nothing. What are some of you with a 2 into 1 setup running main and pilot? I was thinking about starting with a 130 or 135 main and a 40 or 42 pilot for Keihin 36mm carb. I dont mind guessing just trying to start off close. Dustin

Thanks. Yes i know that powder coating is more durable but it still scratches and chips like paint just not as fast. Also it cost me 35 bucks to paint my frame and cheapest aroung for PC i found was like 200 bucks and thats with me stripping the original PC. So for cost i went with paint. I used House of Kolor epoxy primer with DuPont IMRON as my top coat. A few years ago i did my brothers blaster with rattle can primer and black imron and his held up pretty good just the usual wear spots. And for the comment on puting some clear over that. It does not need it the paint i used is a urethane single stage. So by adding another coat or 2 of urethane clear would just layer the paint. It would give some bit of extra durablilty but i havent had good luck with thick layers of paint in the past. Here is the stuff i sprayed. I need to order a couple of bolts that were a little narfed up but i am hoping to have most of my bike together this weekend. I am having some trouble finding someone with a ball hone small enough for my jugs so i can put my new pistons in. Thanks for the input and comments. Dustin

Just wanted to share some pics of my shee and the work i am doing to it. I am giving it a complete makeover. Painted the frame gloss black. Doing a top end on it while the motor is out new reeds, brake pads a custom 2 into 1 intake and some new rubber. Here is the Frame primed. Here it is after 2 coats of paint. Here is the custom intake just after welding it up. It will polished before it goes on the bike. Oh and my bike before i tore it apart.

Ok I am sorta of a newbie to the site. I was on a long time ago but didnt check in for awhile and forgot all my info. But anyway i am redoing my bike spraying the frame black and new top end. Here is my question. I made a 2 into 1 manifold for my bike. I am using one of my old Keihin PJ36 mm carbs which are bored to a 38 and would like a baseline to start jetting. My motor is bored and ported. Cool head with 22cc domes. Live in Florida so i am at about 10 feet above see level. Before with both carbs i was running a 125 main with a 40 pilot needle setting on the top setting and 1 3/4 turns on the air screw. On top it ran fine but i am a trail rider. I barely get into 3rd gear. And riding like that i was fouling a set of plugs every other ride. But if would open it up and hit 5th or 6th gear (hauling ass WOT) i could go a month on a set of plugs. So my main was good but my pilot was to rich. Then i tried to get a leaner pilot and found out that was the smallest one i they make for that series carbs. So i think my problem is carbs are too big for my style of riding. The bike was originally set up for flat tracking. Now back to my original question. I would like a base line jetting start point. Any help appreciated. Oh no airbox i have a k&n and a uni foam filter. I will post some pics when my lazy ass takes some for anyone interested. Thanks Dustin

a worked up 440 still is not as fast or powerful as a stock 450 so i am told. As long as your not bone stock and dont have a fear of WOT you will beat him.

Custom Paint doesnt always mean wrecked. A guy i know bought a busa and had it repainted because he didnt like the color scheme. I have repainted my TL1000R a few times not because i have wrecked it but because i paint as a hobby and can change it if i want to. On the salvage title issue, some or most insurance companies will total a bike giving it a salvage title because of a something as little as a scratch. If you dont know what to look for i wouldnt recommend getting one just incase someone not to smart attempted to rebuild the bike if that was the situation. If i had inspected a bike with a salvage title and it looked good to me i wouldnt hesitate to pick it up cheap. And as far as someone saying it wobbled at 100mph the front tyre could be out of balance or the tyre could be cupped and so on. If you are contimplating it dont buy it wait for another bike. And yes a salvage title will hurt its resale. And i think the guy is giving you a load of BS on the racing means salvage thing. If its a true team bike it wont have vin numbers.