spunmonkey

I read an article years ago that did a test on the F1 cars probally the same one that was posted. It had all the specs and also said the top mph of each gear. The article said the that these cars would do a over a 100 mph in first gear. They are geared more like modern sportbikes. The ZX-10 does like a 105 or so give or take a few mph in first gear at redline. Even though they are geared the way they are they have so much HP.

I just noticed the same problem with mine. I got a 2 into 1 with a 38mm keihin carb. I finally got to ride normal after breaking in my motor. So i started with a 190 main 50 pilot and middle setting on the clip. Big flat spot on the mid range so i moved the clip. Cleaned up the flat spot. Still a little rich on the plugs. Ran a tank of gas through then put a 48 pilot in. Much peppier. I liked the way it ran. The left cyclinder sounded wierd though. So half way through the tank pulled the plugs the right was brown carbon fouled and the left had a white spot on it with carbon on the rest. I was used to looking at oil fouled plugs with the 2 38mm carbs when i trail ride. So now i am lean on the left. But i have noticed that it seems like it smokes more than normal. I now run 32:1 with mercury quicksilver oil. I get it free from work we buy it in 55 gallon drums. But i see that i have oil built up on the end of my pipes too. I still havent done a WOT test or rechecked the compression to make sure everything set right with the new rings. Gonna mess with it some more this weekend.

Cut it off. I cut off all the brackets not needed on my bike. And later down the road if you want to put them back on you can weld them back in place. No regrets.

Ah thanks for the input guys. I am not really to concerned with HP numbers so i dont think i will be getting that intense on the intake. Just mainly using the old ass dyno. What feels to run better in my conditions. Oh i have a bored 36mm carb on there. Its bored to a 38mm. Thanks guys.

Well last weekend i finally started up my bike. Had a little dyslexic episode hooking up my ignition. Anyway my shee fired up first kick after straightening everything out. My fresh motor and reeds and homemade 2 into 1 intake. Well after taking it around the block a few time just trying to get it up to operating temp i checked out my intake and it was cool to the touch. Does anyone elses intakes feel cool to the touch while the bike is at operating temp? I am still expirementing with the length and diameter of the intake runners to see what runs best. For 10 bucks worth of aluminum and a day of my time i am not to concerned with making a few to test to see what works best for me. Dustin

I have heard of people using two different size pistons before. I was told as long as they are the same weight there should not be a problem. We are not talking a 80 over on one side and stock on the other. I read on trinity's website that most people have a problem with one cyclinder being slightly richer than the other. Good to see you found your problem though. Or one being leaner than the other. However you wanna look at it.

Well today i finally got my bike running. I wasnt getting spark before so i took the ignition coils off and cleaned them and sanded all my grounds down to shiny bare metal, then put new 7mm wire in my new ngk plug boots trying to eliminate stuff. Then i also decided to take another wire and run it directly from my cdi to the cyclinder head studs to make another ground connection instead of using the motor to the frame and the cdi to the frame. After putting it all together and kicking til my foot hurt i looked at the wires from my two coils around the flywheel and wonder why i had the right cdi going to the stator coil that was closest to the front and vice versa for the other side. So i switched them and first kick it came to life. So basically my dumbass had the wrong coil going to the wrong cdi the whole time. unbelievable. Well i am happy and now tomorrow i can put it all back together again and ride.

I use simple green on everything the bottle will reach. And then grab some WD-40 for any stubborn grease like when i flip my bike and oil leaks out that overflow tube all over everything in its path. Then a bit more simple green and soap to finish. Some steel wool on the metal and polish it up with some mothers cleaner stuff and every once in a while i will bust out the buffer and do the plastics.

Thanks guys. I have been slacking on getting my parts, i went to try and fire her up and got tired of kicking. Turned out i have no spark. So now i gotta pull my cdi boxes off and make sure i got all the paint of the frame so i am getting a good ground. Nothing to hard to fix i just gotta find time. After looking at how clean it is again i am almost worried about taking her out almost. Here is a pic from a typical ride with my buddy just this time i had the camera with me when we got back to his house.

Full bore on the front and stock plastics on the rear.

Here is the before pic. Original powder coating. Now the current look still not done yet. This is a single stage urethane paint over catalized primer. I still need to get a few things. I am gonna order some red outerwears instead of the yellow. I need a longer throttle cable and one for a single carb. And some new zirc fittings for the a arms i painted over them got lazy. I went through and lubed every joint and bearing. Inspected everything and torqued all the bolts to factory specs. And last here is a installed pic of my homemade 2 into 1 intake. I havent started the bike yet so not sure how its gonna work. I need a longer throttle cable.

I am gonna say the shake is from your tires more than anything else. You have knobby off road tires that you are running on pavement so that to start is gonna make a little shake. Also the tire are not balanced either unless you did them yourself. So your unbalanced tires are now making things worse. Dustin

Try and gear it around your riding style and motor power. Are you gonna run really small tires like 18" or some bigger ones like 22"? If so that will affect your overall ratio if your gonna go by numbers. I personally went 15/40 so i can ride in 2nd gear pretty much the whole time i trail ride. I am not constantly shifting like other have said with the smaller front sprocket. General rule of thumb is 1 tooth in the front is close to 3 teeth in the rear. Without getting technical thats the easiest to remember. Dustin

Warm soapy water and compressed air to dry them is what the service manual recommends. And then i use marvel mystery oil with the white towel trick to make sure there is nothing left in the cyclinders. Dont use synthetic oils cause you will never properly break in your motor. There is not enough friction to properly seat the rings. Just my 2 cents.

It took me and my buddy about 6 hours between figuring out how long the runners needed to be and how much room i had to spare in the frame. I had made a jig for the reed bolt pattern the day before but getting the angles cut on such a short piece of aluminum made for a fun afternoon. And then a lot of grinding to make sure both runners were as close as possible in length. That was our first time welding aluminum so dont laugh at the bead. Then i spent about another two hours and a sanding wheel smoothing up the insides of intake. It is definately a prototype but hell i only 7 bucks tied up into it. So if i need to lengthen or shorten the tubes on another one its not a expensive R&D. And then at the end of the day i feel better cause i made it. I still havent had time to put anything back together so no new pics. Maybe by next weekend i should have it done and then i will post some pics. I need to figure out the jetting still though. I had gotten some advice (thanks) but i also need to break in my motor too. So that will be fun not knowing if my jetting is right and also not being able to reem the crap out of my bike til my rings seat properly. So i plan on running rich and eating up plugs for a few tanks of gas. Dustin