fabricated

One of the weird things is that I live in socal and I dont see it getting cold enough to seize up like that. It sounds more like the cylinders building a small amount of rust on them and locked up on the rings. At first I could'nt move it at all and slowing heard the piston move a little with the plugs out. Then it seemed like once I was able to make one revolution it was free as it would have been if it never happened.

Yes, I run klotz supertechniplate and it may have gotten some condensation in it sitting for 6 months. After it fired up it seemed to run good even with gas that probably is bad now.

My last trip to glamis was in march of this year. The bike ran great! I run vp 110 throught the bike 100%. I currently have the timing advanced 4 degrees, a lightened flywheel, .03'' milled off the head, and had my domes reshaped. It has a good dune port, and some reed spacers. As far as jetting I have 360 mains and 30 pilots with toomey needles on the 4th slot. The bike has always ran good and after the last trip in march it continued to run good. When I got home, I washed it and ran it to get any water that may have gotten into the intake or pipes (most likely nothing was in there). And when I shut it down it was fine, I always let it idle for a few minutes and give it a few light revs to clear it out and then shut it down. Everything seemed fine. Now, 6 months later I went to fire it up and the motor was locked up. I pulled the plugs and they were dark because I always run it a little rich. They had a slight carbon buildup on them which is typical running leaded race gas. So i poured a little premix in the cylinders a let it sit for a while. Then I began rocking the bike back in forth in gear and eventually freed it up. I got it fired up and now it seems fine. I have not done a compression check but it raps up just like it did before. I also didn ot notice any ticking or knocking(other than the norm). I don't know if I had any fuel in the cylinders that form a residue aound the rings or what.

Okay, I bought a set of new wiseco pro lites and put the head on with the old head gasket to check my squish clearance. I inserted some thin solder through the spark plug hole and it measured .035'' clearance. According to everyone I have talked to I am safe with squish clearance but I know my compression will be higher than 160 when I measure it. Anyway, I am going to leave the 30 pilots and needle clip on the fourth location of the dynojet needles but try some 360 mains on straight c12 next trip. I will find it hard to believe that I will run into any problems considering the 340s last trip read rich all weekend. I just know it smart to step up at least one size if I am going to run straight c12 now from pump gas before.

I wanted to know what the squish clearance is on a stock banshee. I took .035'' off my head and detonated my motor at glamis. I have been told that it's due to the compression and squish clearance and I know this but if I run c12 it probably wont happen again.I know that a minimum of .025'' of squish clearance is needed, does anyone know.

I milled .035 off the head, did some dune porting, installed a 4 degree timing key, lightened the flywheel, and installed a set of 1/2'' reed spacers. I jeted it for glamis with 30 pilots, 4th clip down on dynojet needles, and a set of 340 mains. I blew the motor with this jetting but my plugs read rich all weekend. I believe the problem was that I was running pump gas in it and it detonated.

okay, I pulled the motor apart and both pistons had a crater in the center of the domes. the right piston had a slightly larger crater and the burned material flowed toward the exhaust side of the piston and a little flowed down the exhaust side of the piston. there was a tiny bit of aluminum on the cylinder but it will come off with a hone. there was no scoring and it was hard for me to determine why the bike died because the pistons did not burn completely through and the piston that had a little aluminum flow down the side of it did not change the shape of the piston. The motor did not lock up because it kicked over as easy as it did running. I have this theory that because there was a bit of aluminum on the plugs that it may have fouled one before the motor completely burned through. Well I just bought some new wisecos and will put those in and try running straight c12 through it for the next trip. I am also going to leave the 30 pilots and clip location at the 4th groove but put 350 mains for the change in fuel. If it blows again I know it is not due to detonation.any feedback will help

I know that genuine yamaha pistons are the ones to find but they are just too expensive. Other then those what would be a really good set of pistons. I am thinking about buying some wisecos.

Would everyone agree that a 50/50 of premium and vp c12 would be enough to aleviate the detonation problem.

I shaved .035 off my head and did a really good dune port on my banshee. I also installed a 4 degree timing key and a set of 1/2'' reed spacers. I have toomey t5 with 30 pilots, 340 mains, and the clip on the 4th groove on dynojet needles. I wanted to know how much compression I am probably running at glamis.

What is the maximum safe amount of compression that can be ran on pump gas at glamis? I have .035 shaved off the head, a good dune port, and a 4 degree timing key. The reason I ask is that I blew my bike up at glamis and I was running pump gas but the plugs checked rich at all times and I definitely did not get any sand in the motor.

I recently posted a topic on burning both of my pistons in glamis and now I want to know what would be the best set of pistons I should put in my bike. I dont want something that I will have to replace every other season. I want the best quality piston, I dont care if i have to spend a little bit more. I want more power ubt I want extended life as well.

I burned both my pistons this weekend at glamis and I think it was an octane problem. I just got done milling .035 off the head and doing a dune port on the cylinders. I also Installed a 4 degree timing key and a set of 1/2 inch reed spacers. The bike really had a lot of torque and hauled ass on top end but the last day on the flats I was in 5th gear just at the beginning of the power band and the thing died. I was checking my plugs all weekend and they were dark brown. When I chacked them after it died they were still dark brown but had small fragments of aluminum on them and I knew it was from the pistons. My question is that I was running pump gas in the bike and I think I should have been running at least 50/50 with some vp. Does this sound right. I have toomey t5, 30 pilot jets, 340 mains, and the clip was on the 4th setting from the top on a dynojet needle.

at 800m I would say 280s at the largest. Start with 260s I bet those will work best.

220s at the largest. These guys must love over carbureting their bikes. I had a K&N on my bike when I bought it new. It came with 190s and I drove it to glamis that at sea level at 80 degrees. The bike was completely stock with just the filter.

you can try but good luck getting it jetted right.

shearer's are a good running pipe but they're built like sh*t. My cousing has a set and all of the rivots holding the silencers on have fallen out or aer loose. The head pipes have never fit right, either hitting on the cylinder or the frame. and what I mean by head pipes is not the left and right, but the two sets he's gone through.

If you wat a drag bike there a good pipe, if not, you're wasting your money.

How much octane would you get running 80% 91 pump gas, and 20% methanol. C12 has gotten so expensive I think running this alternative might be worth trying knowing that 5 gallons of VP M1 Methanol is only $30. I know that methanol is corrosive, but mixing one gallon of it with 4 galons of gas wont give it the molarity to eat away the line and jetting. What is the equivalent octane? I would guess somewhere close to 100.

I just finished porting my cylinders with a good dune port that will give me a wide range powerband. I wanted this because I've had a banshee before that came on like a light switch and I hated duning with it. I also took .035'' off the head, installed a vito's +4 timing key, and a set of 1/2'' reed spacers. I wanted input on how much benefit I would get with a lightened flywheel, and if i should run a colder plug in it with a smaller gap. I am thinking about dropping one size colder and a gap of .032'' to .036''. I will also be jetting it with 350 mains, 27.5 pilot, and a dynojet needle on the 4th clip from the top.

I have a 2005 banshee will a mild flow port and .035 off the head. I have a +4 degree timing key and a set of 1/2 inch reed spacers. I wanted to know what jetting is recommended from the pilots, needle clip location, to the mains. I am ruuning toomey t5s with toomey needles and an open k&n filter. Thanks for the help. This bike will be jetted for glamis