00tbanshee
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Posts posted by 00tbanshee
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run it.it will be fine!
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looks pretty good!you will tell a difference.kevin told you 3 to 4 months?kevins turn around time has always been 2 weeks.
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around 180
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so i actually wanna pull the bottom from the top then? and u say little pins do u mean make sure the ridge of seal is in groove? i ordered a clymers i have heard they r helpful
yeah.if your just changing the carnk seals you'll beable to leave the cylinders and head on.you'll pull the bottom off.just flip the motor upside down on you work bench.no the pins i'm talking about or on the outter side of the bearings.you'll see them when you take it apart.there not very big
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with a non ported or just a mild cleanup cub you can get away with 165 mains,but once you get someone like kev to port a set your going to be up close to 180.trust me, i know first hand!
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when you flip it over and pull the bottom part of the case off,everything will stay in the top.sometimes the crank will try to pull up with the bottom case ,but just tap it off with a rubber mallet.there is nothing in the bottom case that will fall out unless the half rings on the bearings stick to it,if so just make sure you put them back on before you put the cases back together.your seals will slide right off and back on the crank.just make sure the little pins on the bearing are setting in the little groves on the top case when you slap it back together.dry fit the bottom case back on before you seal it for good.some times you have to adjust the gears on the tranny shaft for the forks to slide back into.
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i would like some info on running my shee on alcohol. the pros andd cons, whats involved in converting from gas to alcohol, whats involed in maintaining a alcohol shee, where to buy alcohol(not the liquor store)...is it the same as E-85 i see in some very few gas stations? all info will help.....thanks
to run alky its a good idea to take out the ball and drill the hole larger in the fuel cap.also want to run a dual pingle valve.to convert the carbs you need to drill the dump tube out larger, change the needles and put power jets in the carbs.if your not going to be racing it, not really worth the hassle imo.after everyday you ride, its a really good idea to perge the carbs with gas.i've ran it on my shee i had in the past,but all i did was drag race
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don't take this to heart,but when you sent them to kev, you should of just had him do all the porting for you!sometimes its just not worth doing something like that youself
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your reeds will be fine if they aren't bad.but if you want to spend the money just put a set of boyseans in it.yes they will work with the stock cages.as for the jetting, its hard to tell what it will be without know what kind of port work it is.but either one of the builders, once they get them, can tell you where to start with that.
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when you was riding it did it seem like it was lean?was is missing or anything.to toast a set of rings and pistons that fast you surely should of had some kind of warning.i would jump to the rings and pistons being toasted right away!do some plug checks
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if you are running alky then spend the money and get yourself a aftermarket head with domes and get that compression up.have somebody cut you a set of domes for alky.not sure it will even run right on alky with only 120psi
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what kind of pistons are they? and never seen anybody port match the pistons that away, if thats what that is
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Do i install them first, then the reeds, then the intakes? or the reeds, then the spacers, then the intakes?
you can do them either way.when i ran them yrs ago i put spacer,reeds then intake.heard of guys saying they do them,reeds,spacer then intake.worked fine for me the way i had them
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with what was done to those cylinders you will probly see a alittle gain over stock.it doesn't look like he opened the ports up an.
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plates and fibers wear out.usually your plates will turn blue from heat, if its slipping.you have to take the whole side cover off,just not the little plastic cover that says yamaha on it.leave that one on.
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.025 would be fine,but i'd check the compreeion once you get it back together
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stock carbs will work,but if you want to spend the money the 33pwk's would work well
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-check and make sure the 2 arrows on the top of your case are lined up.there is one on the case and one on the clutch rod that goes down through the top of the case
-make sure you have alittle free play in your clutch lever before it pulls the cable
-make sure you are not leaking antifreeze into the tranny fluid
if all is good, then sounds like you need a clutch.the fibers might look good but was the metal plates blued any?
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check and make sure your pickup gap is right
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A very good friend does.
It seems like most guys are running 21cc domes on pump fuel with that timing. I've even seen guys on here claiming they're running 20's on pump fuel with 4 deg. of timing. I'll figure out the head volume and timing I get it running.
don't take this the wrong way, but the really good builders out there are not going to give you any specs.maybe i'm wrong.from experience,i would ditch the plate and have the domes in the head cut to make up the difference
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some are goiong to say yes, but i have started right after i torgued the head studs and was fine
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Yep, I gained a solid tenth in 300 feet and 2-4 MPH.
I agree...however, there are only a select handful of builders than can truly make a drag port in a stocker see it's potential.
Get your hands on one of those...you'll be in good shape.
However, you're going to pay for it. A really, really good drag port is triple exhaust, boost port intakes and runs a solid 500 bucks or so just for the port work, bore/hone if needed. You can get a new 4 mil cub cylinder for 600 bucks? Go for it. All day long.
i agree!
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when kevin ported the cub i had from a clean up to a full drag port it was damn close to a night and day difference.i picked up around 3-4 tenths and right around 5-6 mph in 500ft.don't get me wrong, a clean up cub runs well but imo not much better, if any, then a really good set of 4mil drag ported stockers.
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i've ran a set of 4mil stockers drag ported cyl from kevin at hjr and a 4mil that just had a clean up. if it was me, i'd pick the stockers over the cub,but if your thinking of going faster down the road then go with the cub, cause once it was drag ported from kev,i liked it alot better.
sling shot lock up
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
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ran one on a 4mil cub that kevin did.only ran one row of balls and it worked great!just make sure you lock tite the 6 bolts that go throw the springs.did have them come loose and the outer plate of the slingshot was rubbing the cover.