00tbanshee
-
Posts
1,096 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by 00tbanshee
-
-
You mean use one ball bearing in each row? yup, looks like a big hole will be needed...
yes just use one row around the clutch the other you won't need
-
ok, i need to vent....this was supose to be a bolt on, no modifications. The instructions with the lockup say to grind the numbs on the inside of the cover, plus drill a 3.5" dia hole in the cover so the lockup will clear. If I grind just the nubs off inside(the three plastic side cover mount boss) will it clear or will I most deflinatly need to cut the hole or grind off the webing of the inside cover. What seal will I use to block the massive f-in hole? Also, how many ball bearings should I use? All of them? its a 485 pump motor with one step heavy clutch springs.
Thanks for some info....
cut the hole to be on the safe side.if know anybody with a plasma cutter,it works great.just shoot a bead of silicone around the rubber seal when you bolt the plastic cover back on.make sure you locktite the 6 bolts that go in the springs.if not they will back out.also just use one row of balls.i've ran one of these and they work just fine.for the money i think they are worth it
-
just wondering everybodys thoughts on a 4mil supercub?
what numbers they put up in 300ft sand?
what they put out for horse and torque?
any input would be awesome!
kevin from hjr is doing one or 2 right now!
-
60 over isn't nothing.i did a set of stockers set up for a 4mil drag port couple yrs back.pretty sure they are still on that bore
-
damn, thats the most desperate sale post i have ever seen.lol.good to see you sold it though!
-
ran a 1-5 n down in my 4mil cub motor that worked fine.,it was cut by wcr.have also road a few banshee's that have the same style tranny in from kevin at herrjugsracing and they seem to shift alil smoother.i always tore it apart after every season to check the forks and always had to replace atleast one.
-
Send pics to dr.bones@comcast.net
What compression? What HP?
good luck.seen one that person had alil trouble getting $1250 for.yeah i know,i kick myself in the but for not snatching it up
-
The guy that sold me the jugs was running the same setup with TM34 and he said it ran great! I guess I will try th pj's and see what happens I' ve heard they can be a B***h to get them to idle.
34 pj's will work perfect.i ran one of kev's 4mil stock cylinder drag ports and they are what i used
-
i can be sure if you send it to any of the site sponsors, they will be sure that you will have everything done right.you just have to let them know your riding style.length of your swingarm will also depend on your riding style.+4 is a all around good length
-
how would i know what needle i have ? i know it hasnt been changed , kind of sucks we are leaving tomorrow and the only pplace i can think of that may have that is inland .
call kev,he will tell you what you need to have
-
ceg needle,170 main,50 pilot with the a/f screw 1/2 turn out.that main will be alittle rich but if you are going to hit olds hill any it will be safe
-
go with the cub.you'd be much more happier
-
man buddy,you just can't make your mind up what you want to build
-
if you are triing to decide between a trex or cub,go with the cub
-
not 100% sure what the puller is called but here is a link to a pic.its the one on the left upper corner.thats what i used.to put the bearing back on, freeze the crank for about a hr and pop the bearing in the toaster oven to heat it up.it will just tap on then.
http://www.grainger.com/1/1/76954-proto-4235b-master-puller-set-25-jaws.html
-
nice vid
-
155 with 19cc sounds alil low to me.what is your elevation?
-
you can buy a after market head like noss and have a set of domes cut or you can just have your stock head cut for a 4mil.i did a stock head cut when i ran a 4mil stock cylinder and it worked great.the clutch,you can just go with one of jeff's from fast and a set of heavy springs.you also have to run a different set of pistons.i would have it ported so you don't have to run a spaacer plate,which all the good builder out there will do that.
-
i'm with loco on this one.don't waste your time and money with porting for a stock crank because your going to want to go bigger later.once you do a nice port job for a stock crank your cylinders are pretty much done for if you decide to go with a 4mil later.get a aggressive dune port 4mil and a set of 35pwk's.you wil be happy for awhile.you can also get a set of domes cut for a noss head.
-
i have always been a big fan of the shearers.seen alot of big bikes, counting a twister that had a set of cpi's on it, at the local track, that ran damn good.as for kevins dune motor,if he set the port up for the shearer pipe then i'd stay with them.i know kev is a hug fan of the shearers.
-
if you go with the right builder,you can get a 4mil stock cylinder to haul ass.i'd go with that.plus when your ready to do a cub you'll already have the 4 mil crank for a 4mil cub.
-
I have an 89 banshee freshly rebuilt. I rode it for about 15 mins after the rebuild. It died and when i went to kick it, the kick start was locked up. I took the cover off the side and the engine turns over freely but my kick start is still stuck. Any ideas?
which side did you take off,clutch or flywheel?sounds like its something to do with your kicker gear or clutch basket
-
not sure how good of a rider you are, but if you are a experienced rider and know how to set it up to hook,you will when over the rapter.your going to have to jump up to a 17 tooth front sprocket and have a decent set of rear tires.if it endes up being close just toss the pipes and get a set of shearers
-
pretty sure you will beable to get them on your stock intakes
Which carb for a 7 mil on Alky
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
i would run the 34 pjs.i ran a set converted to alky on my 4mil drag port that i had at one time and it was a beast!and all i did was drg racing.i agree that some times people tend to run to large of carbs