vtecjun

V Force 3 are supposed to be the best, from what I have heard. :thumbsup:

Get a hold of Jeff at FASToys. I think I saw some on his website.

:biggrin:

I am looking for the stock front motor mounts, the ones that have the 3 holes in them. If any one has these please let me know. Thanks Matt

:yelrotflmao: I am going to try it tomorrow, just kinda concerned about weakening the springs too much. I guess we will find out!

I am just finding this thread now. I havent been on the board since last year. I am curious how anyone can argue that a factual reading from a sensor can be worse than using your eyes. I have tuned 100's of "CARS", I know almost nothing about my 2 Stroke motor, and I always use a wideband O2 sensor. Our Dynojet has an optional sensor built in but we typically use the same LM1 Innovate to make sure that they both agree. 600HP Honda engines are pretty picky when it comes to AF ratio. I just cant see how a wideband isnt the way to go. I am curious, maybe you said an I missed it OJCOOL, how did you get readings from both sides of the motor? Not taking sides with anyone here, just curious about tuning my bike as well. :biggrin:

I cut a coil off my stock springs but it didnt really seem to help. I am also curious on a solution. Anyone else used a 400EX throttle on their Banshee?

I am going to take off the pipes and repack the mufflers. I havea feeling that there is a bunch of oil built up in the mufflers from before the rebuild. I will let everyone know how it goes soon. Thanks

I dont mean to be uptight it just sucks having spent all that money to fix a problem and then it is still there after it is done. I know that the bike will smoke a little, but I also know that mine is smoking way too much. I am using Castor 927 mixing 32:1. Me and my buddies run all the same gas and they dont have the same problem. Thanks for the help.

It is people like you that make me not want to post. Instead of being a jerk why dont you ask questions that are relevant to MY question? Instead of stating the obvious and then trying to be funny just keep your unneducated responses to yourself. If you read in the factory manual it gives symtoms of a bike smoking excessively and then says that the causes can be related to 1-Oil Mixture, 2- Rings, 3- Crank Seal. My question was if anyone has had this same problem with the CRANK SEAL, and if it fixed the problem. If anyone would like to enlighten me on their expierences with this that would be great. Thanks

I have a 99 Banshee that I just replaced the pistons, rings and did a bore and hone. The reason for me doing that was it has always smoked a little bit. It is oil smoke for sure. So after doing the top end...Wiseco Pistons, shaved head, and all new gaskets it still smokes a little. I was reading that the crank seal might be bad. Has anyone encountered this.

OK. Ill change the mains this weekend, and pull off the flywheel and check the timing advance. Thanks again.

I will check the timing this weekend to make sure that it is set properly. I cant thank everyone enough for all the help. I will keep everyone posted on my progress. By the way I have milled the head to answer FIRST BANSHEE's question, so I think I should have plenty of compression. Here is another question...where do I go from here? What upgrades would you suggest for a next step? I dont have a boost bottle, not sure if they are worth it.

The TORS had been removed from the bike before I bought it. I was looking the FAQ that Wallrat told me to look at. In the write up it shows what are the air screws and what are the aftermarket idle screws. I have been adjusting just the idle screws and it still idles low(at least I think so). I havent adjusted the other screw the it shows in the pic. Here is the link to what I am looking at.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/meatpic1.jpg That is exactly what my carbs look like.

I hope I am on the same page as you guys....the screws on the sides of the carbs, the ones that adjust how far down the slides sit right? I am running no airbox with K&N filters clamped on to the carbs. The Vito's needles are just like stock as far as the positions go. I still am not sure what the extra length of these does. The reason that I have the screws all the way in is because the when I had them out the bike didnt want to start. I would always have to hold the throttle open slightly when kicking it over. Thanks again.

Is it possible for the slide to be switched? I ddint think the bike would run with them switched. I am running 27.5 for the pilot. Does anyone sell a wideband 02 Setup for a 2 stroke? I am used to tuning with a wideband on my cars, I would assume that someone would have a kit. I dont know if it is lean or rich at idle. I can try the 25 pilot again, but that is where I started when I was initially having the problem. I have also adjusted the screws on the sides of the carbs and they are all the way in. Are there other air screws that I am not seeing? Thanks for all the help guys.

I have been trying to figure out how to get my banshee to run right since last summer. Everthing is fine once it hits the power band, but the throttle response is terrible. I have a milled head, Toomey T5's, Advance Timing plate, new reeds( cant remember what kind) and an open airbox with K&N fiters. I am running a 270 Main Jet, 27.5 Pilot, and new needles from Vito's with the clip in the middle. The one thing that I noticed about the new needles is that they are about .25" longer than the stock ones. I just put those in tonight and the bike seems to run the same. Boggy and doesnt want to idle for very long. Like I was saying, once it gets going its fine but off the line it is really bad. I am at sea level, and usually ride in Florence and Sand Lake Oregon. I dont mind making adjustments it just seems like anything I try doesnt work. Any input or suggestions would be great. Thanks

I am running the stock pilot jets. I just bought 30,35,40,45 so I have enough to tune with this weekend. Another thing that i noticed was that on the sides of the carbs there are screws that have a lock nut on them. From the looks of these they seem to hold the slodes in the carbs open more when tightened in. My screws are all the way in and they dont seem to be holding the slides open very far. Just more food for thought. Thanks for all the advice.

Here is a list of all the mods that I did. Keep in mind that befoer these the bike was stock and all of these were done at one time. Toomey T5's, tried 270 and 280 main jets, K&N twin filters, mille head .020, and advance timing plate currently at 4 degrees. I am leaving to Sand Lake Oregon friday night and I really have no time to tune the bike after work since my neighbors dont like me already. So I wil have to do all of my tuning at the dunes this weekend. I guess I am just looking for some adive here in case I need to make it to the parts store before I go. From reading all the posts about the jetting it sounds like maybe I need to up my pilot jet size? As far as I know it is stock right now. The bike runs really good in the higher RPMs but will not idle at all. I have adjusted the screws that are on the side of each carb with no effect on idle. When I pull the plugs out they are wet....whether the bike was idling or I make a rip down the street. The other thing that I noticed is that if I hold the throttle open the pipe on the right side does not blow te exhaust out consistently. The left one is constant but the right seems to come and go even when the throttle is held at the same RPM the whole time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Forgot to say I also installed Boysen Pro series Reeds!