fiveOnick

Bump full set of sand tires included, and price lowered $2950

I have a 04 banshee for sale. New topend with less than 10 hours on it, wiseco's at .020" with mild port and milled head. Timing bumped 4 degrees and FMF pipes. Motor checks right at 150 psi compression both cylinders starts very well too. Still runs on pump as well. Comes with a full set of sand tires front and back. Rears are sand stars. Bike is in very good condition mechanically, upper arm bushing have a very minor amount of slop and thats the only play in the entire suspension. Appearance I would say is better than average, front fenders are in top notch shape while the tank and rears show some scratches and what not. Not perfect but not rough by comparison. Starting price is $3100 and is somewhat negotiable Im located in KS and would be willing to meet up to 100 miles or so. Contact please by email at nweien@gmail.com

It makes sense that an engine would start to preignite when it goes toward a lean state. But still the reason it is detonating is because it was too lean. One can lead to the other but not vice versa. My case was purely detonation, in fact the motor was rich. There is not sign of melt on the top of the piston because it was not lean and did not build up a concentration of heat in the center, as you said for the detonation to take over. It stripped all the porcelin off my plug, but all the metal is intact and looks sharp as a tack. The porcelin is obviously what beat the piss out of the top of my piston. If a motor is detonating for a longer period of time then the porcelin usually goes and does what it did to mine, if it only starts as the engine leans out then the plug usually just melts and you see the result. Not to mention you should hear detonation, hell I could hear it like crazy. Sounded like the engine was coming apart, I really feared for the boys if you know what I mean. For this case I would guess its not a question of whether the motor melted because it was detonating solely, but was it lean causing the resulting. The two look completely different as can been seen by both pistons pictured. If a picture of the piston could be posted I am sure the problem could be further broken down, otherwise all we can do is speculate.

Detonation does not simply just burn a hole in a piston without leaving other indications. I do not disagree that it should be on race fuel, infact it doesnt matter how high the exhaust port is. The higher it is the hotter the piston will be and the quicker it will detonate, with relevance to heat alone. There is more to it than compression. I have seen the crank seal burn a hole in the piston over and over and over. Either side can do it, but in my case the clutch side was the culprit because of that bearing failing. A lean condition does a cleaner job of burning up the engine. Detonation tears shit up. Look at the pics, this is detonation on alky. And there was not a hole in the top of the piston, nor was it caved or damaged from heat in the center at all. He needs to post a pick of the piston, that would make troubleshooting much easier.

bingo. You should be running higher octane fuel but detonation doesnt normally burn a hole in a piston. Thats a lean condition, often caused by the clutch side crank seal.

They are a little closer than I would like to see but should be ok. The lower boysen or whatever YOU wish to call them are too small though to even be there, they can be made quite a bit bigger without cutting through if you watch what you are doing. I usually end up with one about double that size. The other boosts are definately too small to be of any use. I have seen that tried on honda cylinders before but not on banshee's. Both seemed like a waste of time. You are not increasing the SA of the tranfer port and are if anything screwing up the turbulance of the port even if they flow anything.

All you need to do is heat cycle the rings properly as heat is the primary cause of seating the rings. Thus several idle heat cycles then a couple of easy rides to let the motor build more heat than it will with a short idle. After that you should be fine to rip if all other variables of the engine are correct.

Agreed no way in hell you are going to learn things you need to know that way. A lot of engineering goes way beyond the class, personally for you to want an online CE degree I would assume you really dont know much about engineering you just think the salary sounds nice.

Pistons are usually modified in applications for drag racing only where longivity is not expected or needed. Less metal equals less strength, no way around it.

Ha not hardly

Already have spoken for a lightened one so I dont need one now.

Want to do it RIGHT? Pull the needle out and read it. If you have the good needle DDJ you will run somewhere in the 160-168 range, with a 50-52 pilot and with porting most likely 4th position down on the clip. If its the shitty DGH needle then you will be more like 175-185 main with the higher pilot. I would suggest dumping that needle and buying a DDJ they work much better and jet much smoother. I have 3 DGH needles that will never be ran. On a hot day it may run even leaner than that with a DDJ needle my suzuki used to drop down into the low to mid 150's while I dont think the honda has ever ran that low, its always at 160 or 162.

For the price of the tool you can have someone else port it, ha thats funny. $800 dollars will get you in the door with a real porting tool, christ my bits are 30 dollars a piece. How can you really expect to shape transfer tunnels with a dremel or a similiar motor. My flex shaft is 1/3hp whats a dremel? The 90degree cutter to shape and raise transfers is about 400 dollars alone, just pay someone else. Another thing I bet a degree wheel is cheaper than those templates, and maybe you will actually learn something if you can use one.

All you need to do is find someone in the prime years of porting, extreme newcomers dont have the equipment, and often lack the experience to formulate theories or sometime even understand theorys. People who have been doing it for too long often have the tendancy to settle or become set in their ways and dont learn anymore when the truth is you should always continue learning. When you think you know it all branch off into a new question or theory. I have been doing it for over three years and I can tell you I think I learn something new or think about something different each week. Its also amazing how much cleaner work I can do now just from leaning the tool inside and out, remember its all free hand so it kind of an art with a whole lot of understanding and theorys. Just remember no one single person is right about everything. Definately steer away from large companies when it comes to portwork I will drop that hint.

Kansas State University=great engineering school. Especially for the price. I am half way through Mech E now.

There is a lot more to it than matching up some templates or grinding to a line as some would say. You should know what that line is doing for you, the timing of the ports at that point relative to crank rotation. You also cannot simply go in and raise banshee transfers to a point and leave them. They need reshaping, I really dont know how people attempt to do it with dremels and dremel attachments. I have the right stuff and it still takes time and sucks. I cant imagine doing it with a dremel. To each his own.

Why would you disgrace a 250R like that?

Wanted lightened banshee flywheel, non lightened if price is right and it cannot be rusty.

I have seen one break a frame too, first hand. And it didnt fit worth a shit.