sandbomb

When they say +1 or+3 ,that mean's it's 1'' or 3'' wider per side. You also have a forward dimesion, so for example a +3 +1 is going to be 3'' wider and 1'' forward.

Here are a couple pic's of there front end. They did alot of work keeping the angles of the arm's and tie rods correct to minimize the bumpsteer.

Check out so-cal fab, they make a very nice long travel set-up. Not the cheapest but quality is 2nd to none

lower bearings are a com12T , you can get them thru anybody whi deals F.K or rod end supply [ 913-768-1017] they cost about $18.00

You need spherical bearings, uniball is just another name for them. They come in all kinds of sizes starting @ com-3t is a 3/16''. If you want what roll design uses, you need a com-12t , that is a 3/4'' teflon lined bearing. If you are going to use high misalignments you need a com-12t wide it has diffrent dimensions than a com-12 t. go to www.rodendsupply.com or www.fkbearing.com

You and i both know nothing is indistructble but , that is one of how many? I saw the swingarm and it broke clean in half right were he does is '' so called patended gull wing design'' to me it looked like a design problem. Personally, i like the ones made from round tube not square or formed rails. Dont get me wrong, i to think he makes one of the best products on the market but, he is not alone.

Well i guess you never been to baja , because at the last 500 mike cafro [who rides for temecula motorsports] broke his roll design swinger 5 miles from the finish, so guess what even the infamous roll has thier good days and bad.

Dont forget about were your going to set your initial camber and castor , so you can keep your balljoints in a nuetral position when the quad is at ride heigth. Also were the balljoint thread's into the upper arm. do not exceed 12 degrees from the plain of the arm itself, this is one of the most common mistakes made when people try to build a-arm's. I would not use heim's for the upper connection to the chassis [weak link] for castor adjustment instead ,shorten the pivot tube dimension, this way you can put spacers on either side swapping them from the front to the rear will change the amount of castor, all you have to do is figure out how thick you need to make them in relation to how many degrees you want it to move per spacer. One other thing , you should check the amount of steering akerman and the scrub patch, good luck and have fun.

It's obvious that the top arm's are not the same, but the forward upper mount is in the same place as any 90 thru 05 banshee. I do the j arm to a-arm conversion's all the time. If you look at a banshee with a-arm's you will notice all they did from the j arm chassis was add a tube and mount. Besides that everything is the same.

Obviously if they have a ex f1 engineer [ yeah right] designing there parts that must make them better than any others, but i wonder why he is a EX f1 engineer ?

What about so-cal fab, A friend of mine has thier front and rear l.t suspension. They use a uniball designed lower arm and are +3 +1 cycling a usable 13 1/2'' of travel and the craftsmenship is beutiful. The rear is a no-link with 14'' of travel , one of the best riding banshee's i have thrown a leg over.