dbkid13

Yesterday I was out riding and noticed that my chain was a little loose. My adjusters were maxed out and my chain was still a little loose so I decided that I would take out a link (actually two one outer and one inner which is the least you can take out). Anyways I grinded the pin end off the next link down (to cheap to buy the right tool) and turned my tensioners all the way out and it was just a wee short of going on. So now I cant ride. My question is has anyone used one of those half links (one side is bigger then the other so that you can replace two links (one inner one outer) with one link that goes from the outside to the inside. The reason I ask is because I would think that pulling on a chain link that wasnt straight would not be as good as pulling on a straight link, if the half link wont work what should I do, since I dont want to run two master links because then it will be too long again. My second question is after you wash your bikes do you spary anything on it to avoid rust. I mean some of your bikes are late 80's early 90's and they look great. Mine is a 99 and I wash it everytime I go on a major ride and scrub everything down well but it still is starting to rust on the seams and stuff. Wonder if there was some lubricant I could spray on there to avoid this and keep in looking good. Thanks for your help. --------------Sam

When the bike is sititng there the two arrows are lined up just like your picture, when I go to push it there is already tension on it, theres no slack in between when I push and when i feel pressure, is this bad?? should I lossen up my cablle a little. Thanks. ----Sam

Yeah mine gets better when it warms up also, however it seems to be getting worse so I dont know what to think. -------Sam

When I shift from neutral to 1st my banshee clanks really loud and sometimes stalls. Now the bike is all stock and I was wondering if I need a new clutch. When I get it going the clutch works fine and even under a heavy load will not slip and to my understanding if a clutch is bad it starts to slip. I have read some old forms and to my understanding there are two adjustments for the clutch one on the lever and the other near the clutch. I have tried tightning up the lever adjustment and this just made the clutch engage later so I tried losening which just made it engage sooner. I was wondering if I need a new clutch or if I should try the other adujustment. Also if its the other adjusment how do I go about fixing it. Thanks. ---------Sam

Upon further inspection I realized that the hole was not drilled so the pipe must be related to the choke somehow. Anyways I flipped my reed cages today and The problem seemed to have gone away (fingers crossed). Thanks for all the help and hopefully this thread will die.

Carb Pics Attached I think!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Weird up date, I have a boost bootle so it should eliminate cross over tube problems right?? unless you mean that tube that connects the carb which is hooked up good. But anyways I had both carbs apart today and noticed what i think is a missing part. I called my local dealship and they said they dont know if both carbs are supoose to have this piece. Its the piece that is a long brass tube from the carb that goes into the bowl. Anywyas I will try to figure up how to add pics but the where thing is that I am missing the piece on the side that is running good. So what do you think now, thanks for the suggestion and I will try the TImming light thing when I get home from school

Still nothing I have tried adding Sea Foam to the gas as a suggestion from a freind I am going to reclean the carbs tonight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any other Ideas.

I bought mine off flea bay, it was a little bit cheaper then the dealership and it came with a set of 4 or 5 sizes.

Do you really need to run BR8ES's or can you run B8ES's. I know that the r stands for resistor and that some new dirtbikes need to run them so they dont screw up the electronics or something. Just wondering what you thought because my local hardware store carries the B8es's but not the Br8es's and they are only $1.79, which is good for plug chops and what not.

Alright, I did the plug chop and if anything it might be a little lean. I warmed it up and then changed the plugs and then ran WOT through all 6 gears(about 1/2 of a mile), when I pulled the plugs and cut them away I saw some light brown rigns around the bottom however they were not consistant around the whole electrode most spots had the ring some spots didnt. If anything (according to what I see at http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html) they might be slightly lean. SO this does not make sence. If this was a lean condition why was it running fine when it was cold and why they would I be losing a cylinder and fouling the pl;ug on just one side. So I am back to being confused. I guess my mains are close however, it seemed to run good at full speed. My needle is still at the 3rd postion from the top of 6 (toomey needles). I switched my coil today with the one that was running good however this didnt seem to change anything. So here is a recap incase you dont want to read everything before Mods: Toomey T5 pipes and Silencers, boyseen reeds, pro-action ari filter, lid on air box heavily vented but not removed elevation unsure of elevation (ann arbor michigan). Jetting: 280 mains, 25, pilots, 3rd postion from the top on 6 grover toomey needles. Symptoms: If sitting will idel fine and will rev fine with no load just sitting. When a person is riding slow (below power band) it runs good. When a person is riding hard I seem to lose my right cylinder (though it was the left for a while) and then the bike will back fire shooting out very warm exhaust. If i then ride it slow again for a while it will start running good. Things I have tried: I switched my spark plug wires:: no change. I switched my coil with one from another running banshee:: no change. I put four different set of plugs in it:: no change. I have checked all my electrical components accrding to the electrical faq and they seem to all be okay. I have ran high octance gas through it:: no change. I have cleaned my carbs like 10 times:: no change (all times seemed pretty good). I have cleaned the hell out of my air fiter:: no change. I inspected the reeds and they dont seem to be cracked. I moved my needle from the 4th postion from the top of the needle to the 3rd postion (leanning it out slightly):: very little change cant tell if it is better or worse. I did a plug chop and it passed however it might be slighlty lean however If I went to a 300 I would be real rich. It ran great when I was up in grayling three weeks ago when it was 60 degrees. However since then I have not been able to get it to run right. So the plug chop says that I might be a little lean however since it ran good in 60 and now at 80 I should have a slightly rich condition. Plus the choke trick says that I should not go any richer. So any other ideas (I am about ready to take it to a shop guys out of frustration)??????????????

Alright its a 99 and 96 but they are slightly different also. I found http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html today and went thorough all of the electroical measurements and everything was right except I could not get a reading on my plug wires the measurment that should be 4700 - 7100 ohms however I was probably not doing it right, if It was really over 200,000 ohms (the max of my ohmmeter) then the bike would not run at all. Any ways here is some new information the electrical system seems to be all good, so its back to the jetting. If I put new plugs in it, the bike will run good at an idel, then if I give it a lot of gas still in neutral, it still runs great, then I rode it around low in the rpms (below the power band ) and it still runs good however when I am on it high in the RPMS it drops the left cylinder and fouls that plug. I switched the plug wires like 5 times and it had no effect on the situation. Even though I am running T5's, a foam pro-action filter, and boysen reeds with my snorkel removed, I think that I am running rich on my needles or my 280 mains. I am going to do a plug chop tomorrow, my friend lives on a dirt road so i will try it over there. However all my symptons point to rich jetting even though I am running 280 mains, 3rd from the top of 6 on the toomey needles, and the stock 25 pilot jets. My spark is great and consistant. So I think that I will try to lean it out more. I cleaned the hell out of the carbs again today and cleaned the air filter. If my plug chop comes back as not rich the last thing I can think of is that damn CDI box and since the 99 and 96 are different I will be looking for one to test on. But if it was the CDI box wouldnt it be going through all the RPM range or could it be at just the top. I will have more info with my plug chop. I have a Diff Eq exam wensday so I need to stop working on it for a bit or I will probably fail my test. Talk to you guys later, and thanks for all the help so far.

thanks for looking up that info for me. I also have a 96 banshee will the cdi boxes be interchangable. It looks like on ebay they are the same from 1997 and up so the 1996 would be different. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I will figure out some way of testing it.

Also does anyone know how to tell if a stator is going bad, I have a ohm meter so I can check resistivity but I dont know what it should be or how to go about checking it. Also any ideas on what kind of needles I have (6 groves instead of 5) and how to set these vs. stock needles.

I will try it tomorrow I just set both float heights to 21mm like I read in some other forums and it seemed not to help a bit. I will try that since I was planning on taking a look at the stator anyways. If i work on it any more tonight I might decided just to push it off the stand.

I went riding this weekend and found I still have the same problem of losing a cylinder however now it seems to be the other cylinder, I never switched my reeds so I am going to eliminate that as a possibility and I disconnected the tors so those should no longer be a possibility, I took the carbs apart and moved the clip from the 4th to the 3rd grove from te blunt end of the needle to lean it out since I am following my plugs (there are 6 groves not five like I expected so I think they are aftermarket needles. Also I cleaned the heck out of my air filter so that should not be a problem (though it wasnt really dirty). So the only thing I can think of that is left is spark plug wires and since it switches from mising on one cylinder to the other when keeping my wires the same I dont think it should be that and maybe the stater. The problem I have is when I put new plugs in they seem to work fine but after it runs for maybe 10- 15 minutes I will drop one cylinder. My mods are below and I am still running 280 mains and 25 pilots which should in theory be lean. I make good power when both cylinders are running so I dont think its running lean, and when I pull the new plugs after 5 minutes or so they look like they are running good. So is it possible that my stator is starting to go and is causing my bike to run like crap which results in one cylinder being lost and then comes back. Also when it does this it backfires. So if anyone has any ideas I would be more then intrested in them. I am getting very frustrated trying to get it ready to ride next weeknd. If anyone lives around the Ann Arbor, Michigan area I would be willing to pay someone to come out and help me diagnose the problem. Also my float sticks open sometimes even though I have cleaned the hell out of them and causes fuel to leak from my overflow tube. Could this have something to do with it and if so how do I fix it. Most of the time its fine which makes me think that its not out of adjustment but sometimes it just pores out when I shut it off. I have used like 4 cans of carb clean with out successe of solving the problem. THanks for the help. Sam

When I went to check my needle height I noticed there were 6 groves not five like I was expecting. It was also on the third from the bottle grove. Does these mean I have after market needles and if so is the jetting about right for my mods?? Thanks for the help. --------Sam I tried removing the tor wires are my spark went away when I disconnected them. I didnt realize this at first and kicked the thing until I got a blister on my foot. I then hooked them up and started it and it worked fine then I disconnected and the four wheeler died. From what I have read this should not be happening.

I will try it when I get home. Thanks!!!!!!!

I was thinking about moving my pilots to 30 today, however dont really know since I am fouling plugs and this would be giving the carbs more gas ( I think). I also dont want to mess with the jetting since my left cylinder runs perfect. I guess I am going to flip my reeds tonight (from right to left and left to right) to see if this changes anyhthing. Anyother suggestions would be appreciated. Also thinking that maybe I am having spark plug wire issues so I might change them also. Can I just switch the caps from one plug to the other?? I assume that since there are two cylinders they are timmed exzactly opposite.

So here is a recap incase you dont want to read everything ADDED PICS ON SECOND PAGE OF MISSING CARB PART HOWEVER IT WAS MISSING OFF THE SIDE THAT WAS RUNNING GOOD. ANY IDEA??????????? Mods: Toomey T5 pipes and Silencers, boyseen reeds, pro-action ari filter, lid on air box heavily vented but not removed elevation unsure of elevation (ann arbor michigan). Jetting: 280 mains, 25, pilots, 3rd postion from the top on 6 grover toomey needles. Symptoms: If sitting will idel fine and will rev fine with no load just sitting. When a person is riding slow (below power band) it runs good. When a person is riding hard I seem to lose my right cylinder (though it was the left for a while) and then the bike will back fire shooting out very warm exhaust. If i then ride it slow again for a while it will start running good. Things I have tried: I switched my spark plug wires:: no change. I switched my coil with one from another running banshee:: no change. I put four different set of plugs in it:: no change. I have checked all my electrical components accrding to the electrical faq and they seem to all be okay. I have ran high octance gas through it:: no change. I have cleaned my carbs like 10 times:: no change (all times seemed pretty good). I have cleaned the hell out of my air fiter:: no change. I inspected the reeds and they dont seem to be cracked. I moved my needle from the 4th postion from the top of the needle to the 3rd postion (leanning it out slightly):: very little change cant tell if it is better or worse. I did a plug chop and it passed however it might be slighlty lean however If I went to a 300 I would be real rich. It ran great when I was up in grayling three weeks ago when it was 60 degrees. However since then I have not been able to get it to run right. So the plug chop says that I might be a little lean however since it ran good in 60 and now at 80 I should have a slightly rich condition. Plus the choke trick says that I should not go any richer. So any other ideas (I am about ready to take it to a shop guys out of frustration)?????????????? I purchased a Banshee 5 weeks ago and at first it ran great however now I am having a few problems. When I first purchased the bike I took it up north and rode and it and the bike ran great no problems all weekend. The weekend following it warmed up about 20 degrees and I began fouling spark plugs only on the right side. It seems to run very poorly at low RPMS (this is where I have been fouling plugs) however if I keep it very high in the RPMS it runs better but still not good. I tore the carbs apart at the dunes and cleaned them up and it ran but not very good. I have T5 pipes and silencers, pro-action air filter, and some holes drilled in the top of my airbox with vents, I was also told that the bike had boysen reeds however I can not confirm this since I have not removed them. The mains are 280's which for the mods should be close from what I read at http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html (which is an amazing tutorial) and the pilots are 25's which I think are a bit small. I have ran a compression test and the cylinders are fine and was wondering how to check to see if my reeds are good. I also was wondering why the right cylinder would run so poorly while the left runs perfect ( golden brown sprak plug with all the same settings). I have been reading a lot but there seems to be too much info for me to take in at once and diagnose the problem. I have changed my plugs three times and it still wants to foul them. Think I should lean out my jetting or possibly flop my reeds to see if they are causing the problem?? I also have those stupid tors on the carbs. Thanks for any help and I am sorry that this was so poorly organized. --------Sam