1.6i

cool, thanks for the invite, if i do go we'll be parked out in the wash somewhere, im not positive im going though..

damn, i just blew my top end racing some doosh up the hill :yelrotflmao:

i hear what your saying, who knows as long as my compression is legit im happy, thanks for all the help guys.

Well I feel like a complete fool, (doesnt seem to intrigue me either lol) i did some compression tests earlier, turns out i wasnt kickin hard enough when i was getting 105psi previously :: .. well tonight i got 130psi in each cylinder with the snap-on gauge,and roughly about 125 psi with my matco gauge, this was with both plugs out on a completly cold engine..i warmed up the engne, then i got roughly 119psi in both cylinders.. kinda weird that there was less with a warm engine.. I found that i got about 5psi higher with the snap-on fitting threaded into the cylinder matco (left) snap-on (right) the matco threads were about the same height as the spark plug threads, so im going with the matco gauge set is more accurate as far as precise combustion chamber volume when threaded in.. Moral of the story is, when doing a compression test make sure you kick hard as if your trying to start it...I dont know what the hell i was doing before or why i was kicking it soft like a bitch..lol actually, i got roughly about 4-5psi more with a sparkplug in the adjacent cylinder i was testing tonight..i think this is how ima test the compression in the future, it seems more accurate for this engine when testing for precise compression numbers..

you only pull one plug @ a time? in the clymers it says to pull both plugs, who else pulls only one plug in here? seems like ill probably get better results that way, maybe?? as far as the psi climbing, each kick will generate about 30 psi, but when it gets to the top it only goes up about 5-10 psi each kick...sometimes a few kicks wont generate any psi I got my buddys snap-on gauge, ima try it out today after work, ima post some numbers tomorrow morning.. ima do a cold engine comparison then warm, then hot..see what i come up with.. :shrugs: we'll see

nice, thanks

when doing a compression test, do you guys kick fast, slow or about medium speed? does it matter? lol im not use to working on my banshee ima honda car technician for a living..haha

i know what you guys meant, a piston is oval.. not perfectly round when cold, not to the naked eye though, it expands into a full round shape when warmed up to operating temp....this is why is not good to rev a cold engine...

im running K&N pods, with outerwears, installed them when the bike only had like 2-3 hours on it, never had them fall off while riding..yeah i learned in high school auto class that reving a cold engine is a big no-no, (oval piston in a round cylinder when cold)...so i never did that with anything ive owned .. i use to run 927 then K2 then switched back to 927 recently always 32:1.. ima try my buddies tester tomorrow and see what that gives me..thanks for your opinions..

so its normal for the rings to wear down so fast? i mean damn, after how many hours of riding are rings known for lasting especially on a stock engine? seems to fast to be needing a top end already imho..

thanks for all the responses, i have no idea where the coolant is coming from, it seems to be coming from the radiator area when it does leak, it doesnt leak a whole lot but some.. thats why its hard to see where its coming from.. As far as hours on the engine, well you figure ive had it since 04 i have taken it out these past 4 seasons about 4-5 times each season and i kill about 6-8 gallons roughly each time i go out running K2 @ 32:1 for a while then swtiched to 927 still @ 32:1.. i use to ride it hard all the time but not anymore..lol.. I was planning on putting a cool head soon, ill check out the cylinder and piston for and scoring at all... ima get a snap-on compression tester from a friend here @ work and see what the psi differences there is if any..ill keep you guys posted..

I did a compression test today, i warmed it up for about 10-15 minutes..removed both plugs and held it wot, kicked till the psi didnt go any higher.. both cylinders were @ 105psi I bought it in 04 brand new, all i have done to it is t5's k&n pods, 340's (switched to 330's last time out) needle moved one clip up. sea level. the numbers seem too low for me, i used a brand new matco compression gauge too.. unless i have a faulty gauge the numbers are low, the engine hasn't fouled one plug on me and runs great! i keep up with my boy he has t5's vforce 2's, a pro design cool head and k&n pods..his top end is alittle worn though but we're pretty even up the hill.... My question is, will compression numbers make that much of a difference from the engine simply being warmed up compared to the bike being ridden assuming that the engine gets alot hotter when ridden, given the chance for the rings to seal better??.... i have no where to ride the shee before a compression test, unless i take the bike out for the day then test it after a ride.. another thing i noticed was its been leaking coolant recently when i ride out in glamis..it doesnt leak all the time, just sometimes.. TIA guys..

i should be there, camping in the wash somewhere...

right on..

cool, thats what i figured..i need to talk to him and make sure..yeah he's changing the head gasket too..thanks..

I got the offer to do a maintenance service on a friends car in exchange for a cool head/domes w/installation. I was more than willing to install the cool head, but he offered since he's experienced with atv/cycle work..I asked him if he's gonna replace the studs along with the head, but he said theres no need to...I've read that replacing studs s a must on a cool head, except on a Noss head (which i would be buying if i wasnt doing this deal)..so whats the deal, is he bs'ing me, or am i trippin?...what would happen if he installed the head using stock studs? tia.

lol, yeah, thats good they choked yesterday :yelrotflmao:

low on fuel in the tank? put it on reserve..just for shits and giggles.

did you win any money?

remove the shock and check if the arms are binding if not, then its the shock..

Home feild advantage through out the playoffs FTW!! :woot:

I hear ya.. :thumbsup:

i have bought two gauges one from auto zone and one from kragen...waste of money, one doesnt work and the other reads like 30 psi higher..... 04limited, did you happen to get the part number for that matco gauge? sounds alittle too good to be true though being that the snap-on gauge is around $200+..and the matco ones i have seen are around $100+ etc..

im not able to subscribe to topics, when i click "options" it sends me down to the bottom of that same page...any one else have the same problem?

so heres the question, if i could only buy one for now, which would it be? V3's or a noss head with domes? i guess it really doesnt matter since ima do both eventually but, which do you guys think i should buy first??..