Ripassbrother

so the regular hauler is going to bend easier? So in actuallity it loses grip?

so extremes are taller then the regular haulers? you said the're like having a extra paddle. Thanks guys for all your info.

How come the extremes are better? is it because there stiffer and stronger? As for my riding I do just about everything, drag, trail jump etc. So maby I should stick with the 9 paddle and get the extremes. How much top end would I lose if I went with a 20/10/10 10 paddle?

I ran 9 paddles and loved them. I was just thinking that 10 would hook up even better?

I have a 96 banshee which for the most part is a stock motor. Piped, mild porting etc. Not running a stroker motor or any high horse power bike. My current 20/10/10 9 paddle haulers are shot. I loved them. My question is could I jump up to a 10 paddle and would it affect my performance a lot? And I see a lot of guys shying away from the shorter and going taller on the height of the tires? I want as much grip as possible but I don't want to bog my bike down either. Thanks for the help

Cascade claims you don't lose any horse power. I wanted to get them solely for the reason of passing noise restrictions. I've heard that Cascade works directly with the forest service when making these silencers. What do they sound like?

so 700.00 is priced high? The guy says it was out of a running bike but I have no way of know if everything is fine inside. Its all stock and my mechanic thinks the cases have never been split. So you think 500 is top dollar I should pay?

I think there called the CSX or CFX silencers? not sure. anyways any problems with the cops and sound?

My friend found a bottom end minus stator and flywheel for 700. Now Is that a good deal. Says it came out of a running stock bike. My bottom end is junk. Case is shot, crank had play and my tranny was popping out of 2nd gear, bad shift drum. I had my top end redone and new pistons, so Im waiting for a good top end to come around. what do you guys think?

By the way I don't come on this website a whole lot so it way better to email me direct if you have any of these parts. [email protected]. Hope to hear from you. thanks

I need a bottom end for my girls banshee. Minus stator and flywheel. Prefer Oregon pick up, due to the fact I need to see it. Must be in great shape, no Junk! If you don't have a complete bottom end then I need these specific parts. -OEM crank shaft, must meet specs -Engine cases, no chain breaks unless its only cosmetic and dosnt affect case performance. -Complete Tranny if you have one, or I just need a shift drum. -Clutch basket. Hers has groove in it and is junk, so must be in new condition. So as you can see it would probably be cheaper to buy a complete bottom end. But I want to be able to get crack it and make sure im not buying worn parts as she allready has. I live in the Portland Oregon area and would available to meet. Email me at [email protected] to give me details. I have cash and ready to buy.

Just purchased some new Fatty pipes and Power Core Silencers. I was wondering if I need to put any kind of silicone or RTV around the heads of the pipes to prevent oil getting on my new chrome. I have Cascade clamps for the silencers, just dont want any oil on my pipes, I had that problem with a LRD pipe, oil blasted on my pipe and stained them. thanks

I think we decided it overheated after looking at the cylinder and noticing the piston melted to the wall. And allthough my crank probablly didnt cause it to blow up, it does have play in the bearings. So what do you guy think about getting another stock crank on ebay? I noticed they go for reasonable price. What questions should I ask to insure Im getting a good crank?

ok I looked at me cylinder today and noticed the bad piston actually melted and welded to the clylinder wall. This tells me that it overheated I guess? It was low on coolant also.

anyone else have any feedback to what a I should or shouldnt do?

Yea we allready spit the case and took everything out and cleaned it up.

I was told that the way they machined it increased the compression but also allowed the piston to hit the head.

My left piston was the bad one, it had a big chunk on the upper side break off. Someone said that the way the head was machined that the piston was hitting.

you guys are giving great advice. The rods move side to side just slightly. As for up and down on the rod no it dosnt have play. The crank has been trued and welded. what do you think?

so should I be fine guys if I just get a good crank? My bike was blowing steam, do you think that is what happened I blew the seal? So this is all caused by a bad crank jumping around?

so what are the signs of a overheated bike? Why do you think only one piston was destroyed?

Last summer my banshee quit on me. Only one cylinder was working. I took the top end off and noticed my left piston was toast. Parts of the piston were cracked off and missing. My right piston looked ok. When the bike quit on me it was blowing smoke out. I thought is overheated because I was low on coolant. I tore down the bottom end and inspected the crank. There seemed to be a little play but nothing that concerned me. Could this be a simple overheating problem? or is it more that the piston was knocking the head because of the crank? I bored out my cylinders and just bought 2 new pistons, should I not put the new top end on or do you think I will be ok. I just don't want to put it on again if Im going to go blow it again. 1st post on this site, sorrry Im new.