dajogejr

Heck with Ebay...check this out. http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=122&catid=136 I'd take Magic over fleabay anyday!!!

That's Bob @ R&B Racing...I'm surprised he's not willing to ship them, though...probably cost 5 or 8 bucks for shipping. Yeah, for that price, it's worth it. I think I spent within 10 bucks of that...and I'm 100% sure I spent more than that in Gas driving around....

Anyone happen to notice the noobie resurrected a 6 month old thread?? Since then, this guy's gone from stock to 33PWKs....look at his sig.

If the plug chop looks good, leave the mains. Warm it up...ride around going no more than 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, look at the plugs again. If they're dark, go down on the pilot or adjust your air screws. You could warm it up...start with the air screws 1/4 turn out, and work your way out until you get your highest idle, 1/2 turn at a time. Remember to wait 20 seconds for the adjustment to set in.

Interesting... I see on their website it's some guy in TX. Too bad, Ray was a helluva guy. I just didn't like the fit, as far as spark plugs...forgetaboutit...as well as smacking my knees on those beer kegs. You interested in getting rid of those CPIs? I'm going to ride my new cub for the first time this weekend, (hopefully...weather permitting)..I'll see how I like it with the T5s... CPI and 35PWKs might be on short order. However...if the bikes feels as good as it looks on the dyno...I think I might be set for a while... Good luck bro!

Sorry to hear..Ellison. Minkia lives in my neck of the woods. Nice enough to meet me locally, let me try a set out, I didn't like them at all, but...he was very nice about meeting me to pick them up and give them back. I'm not sure who is selling or making them now. Once I'm ready for new pipes, I think I'm just going to go the CPI or Shearer route, period....

That's the rule of thumb...

Yeah...not going to happen. And if it does, you won't like the piss warm water in that bottle from getting heated all up. Your best bet is search for a 6 pack rack for your shee...and get a small cooler. Or ride out front so you don't eat as much dirt...

Suprised there were no takers on this thread. Take the carbs out of the manifolds, take the pipes off. Measure the ID of these holes. Get to the hardware store, buy rubber plugs to plug 'em up. Hint, the rubber plugs used to slide over chait/table legs work well. You're on your own for brass fitting, hoses, a pressure gauge and pump to get air in 'em. RNBRAD has a great write up on this. You'll end up spending about 40 bucks...most of that going towards a nice low pressure gauge. Here you go...enjoy. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=49835&hl=

Just thought I'd post this up. Dynoedge in Ortonville MI ended up shaving the top of the cylinder, shaving the head to get it to seal, and a thicker base gasket. There are two runs on here, the lower showing the motor before the leaks were fixed, as you can see right where it started pulling coolant into the mix. The second is the latest run, which they said the jetting was just a tad fat, so..figure another couple HP. I'm impressed. Keep in mind this is stock carbs, K&N Pods and T5 Pipes. I'll get it back this weekend...can't wait to go for the "Ride"... Thanks to all...

Ditto. If you just bought it...for sanity's sake, you can always take the carbs off and clean them thouroughly to make sure there is not dirt and/or debris in the float bowl... A drip or two, no biggie. If it gets be more than that, clean 'em up. The needle and seat might not be sealing properly. My 96 sat for 5 years (before I bought it) and when I put it back together (for the friend I bought it off of) it poured gas out. Ended up being a small leaf in the carb seat, don't ask me how, it was stored with filters on, etc....

Exactly... just because it isn't torn, ripped, etc., doesn't mean it hasn't been compressed beyond the point it won't seal again properly. Don't take the chance...

You only need to be burning trickles of coolant for it to smoke white. Normally a gear oil smoke would be dark, almost like a two stroke colored smoke... When you say coolant level, you mean in the neck of the rad, not the overflow bottle... That overflow bottle don't do much. Pull the tranny dipstick. Low, milky, etc? Might be time for a leak down test.

1. Ditch the boost bottle 2. Adding a NOSS head shouldn't change your jetting, maybe a jet size...maybe. 3. What the heck is an OKO?? Never heard of 'em. 4. How did it run before? If it ran good before, do the plug chop found in the sticky of this thread. No one hear can tell you the precise jetting of your quad. They can only get you close. However...I've never heard of OKO's...so, I'm missing something. Adjust your jetting according to the plug chop...

I know it's real easy for one of us to tell you how to build/repair your motor, we don't have to look into your wallet... In the case of mine...you could hear a pin drop or an echo... I agree...new pistons, fresh bore, get the crank checked out. IF the crank turns up good, spend a bit of money on a MX/Dune port for a little more kick. A new crank costs a little more than a decent port job. Hey...you're gonna have it down the far anyways... Sorry to hear about the damage...best of luck on the rebuild...

Loosening the clutch cable at teh perch is a wise idea. Make sure you adjust the arm on the left side of the case properly first, the cable adjustment at the perch comes last.

Yeah...but David Allen Racing (is that what you mean, JT?) is pricey as hell... My buddy went to get a smaller rear sprocket for his 480R up there a few weeks ago, they wanted like 60 bucks for it, and all they had was Aluminimum...which would've lasted him a day... They are good for emergencies, plugs, etc. But...they are expensive. Hell...I would be too, though...where else you gonna go?

You could also measure the diameter of the lip on the stinger... I got mine from Magic Racing in Shelby, MI. You'll pay about 6 or 7 for shipping, but you'll have it next day. 586-254-9117.

I'll be happy to help as well....PM me if needed.

I've been in cleaning mode. I was given an aluminimum impeller by someone who no longer owned a banshee. Not like I'd be giving you a 10K motor...and it's just sitting in my garage. I'm ready to throw out my stock pipes/stingers... My stock head and swingarm might fetch a few bucks...not sure. Welcome to it. Let me know....

Amen...you know those shmucks are out there... They're the same people that don't heed the warning of squealing brakes on their car...and a month later (they just started grinding)... If it turns out to be the impeller...I have a stock plastic one. Get me a few bucks for shipping, and you can have it. If you don't have the loot...and still need it, let me know. I'll ship it and you can send me the bones when you do. It's just sitting in my tool box right now...

Happy Birthday... When you feel you are too old to ride that beast of yours...I'll be happy to accept the donation. Just think of the tax write off you would have...

Not to Mention...it's his BIRTHDAY today.... Happy Birthday John. Have a few for me....!!

John is truly a good guy for the forums and our sport. I've been having trouble with my cub motor, and at one point I thought it might be the CDI. John shipped me the CDI, did not charge me...asked me to send him a check if I kept it, or send it back if I didn't. Short of him driving over here, with beer...to install it himself, I don't know how much more you can help a guy out. I shipped it back today...with a few extra goodies for him I hope he can find use for, to show my appreciation. Thanks John...!!

The metal (head and cylinder) may expand, your gasket won't. I haven't read anything about your plugs yet...how do they look? White, crystalized, etc? I hate to say it like this...for I know we're all not made of money...but, if you think it's going to cost money to fix now...keep riding it the way it is. Then you'll see a nice hefty repair bill. Better to fix it while it's running than to TRY and fix it when it doesn't...