dajogejr

Depends on if Kevin will build me a motor again.... Yes, next year is my plan. Wheelman Chassis and HJR motor, just not sure which one yet. I'm sure some kind of JD Customs metal work and Mr. Bling polish to top it all off. I'm lucky to have not only good companies that I can go to, but to call them old friends as well.

Get one with the gears back cut and every other dog taken off. If you were drag racing 60 to 70% of the time or more, I'd say get one. It'll cause you more problems than what it's worth. Backloading if letting off the throttle without pulling the clutch....whether you back off the throttle half way or all the way makes no difference. Changing out a banshee trans is not fun. It is not hard work...it's just time consuming and you'll be putting on new gaskets, resealing the cases, etc. Just a PITA IMO.

You'll get more consistent times with a bar. With a smaller motor (judging by your times alone Cam) You can probably ride it out...but wheelies hurt time, as does letting out. Don't get hung up on MPH. 60 and ET wins races. MPH is about right...honestly. Lower 4's and upper 60's lower 70s is about right. You're a bigger guy like me, you wont' need quite as much paddle and arm...there has to be a balance there. I always run an arm. Don't always need it...but when you lift you lose. Which motor is this Cam?

My old WCR is 6 years old and still going in someone else's hands. It still shift so smooth you feel like there's something wrong. The key to making a dunable last is pulling in the clutch if you're at more than half throttle before you let off the gas. The dunable is still an override, meaning at any time it's almost in 2 gears. If you're on and off the gas alot..no, don't get one. Get a stocker cut with every other dog removed and back cut. It'll shift smoother...and last a long time. I used to deal with a TON of overrides, I'd say easily had 100 or so of them out there. The few failures I had were self admitted...blowing through gears then letting off the gas at full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear. If you fubar one...just be honest with whomever you get it from. If they're worth their salt, they can tear it down and tell exactly what you were doing based on the wear marks and what broke.

My 10 mil cub was ported by Kevin, it ripped...flat out. Still does, just in the hands of someone else. Kevin's key is turn around. Unless you want something off the wall exotic, 2 weeks is the norm. No one does that.

Way to go, owner, rider....and...ok, fine...that builder guy. Great job!!

In my honest opinion, try tires out if you can. 400 a pop or so (used or new...prices vary) it's tough to swallow that kind of bill. The guys I've raced with...would give you the spark plugs out of their bike so you could make a pass...just to get them back so they could make a pass. I'm sure there's someone there that could let you borrow a set for a day, if not a few passes. I think 14 extreme would be a huge step in the right direction. Remember, try different air pressures as well.

Guys...this is totally my opinion. Try not to get hung up on MPH. Instead, work on 60foot and ET. Rob @ RDZ...like him or hate him, is a king of small motors. His game is 60 foot. He puts paddles on small motors most won't dream of. His 60 foot and ET win races and set records. His MPH...not so much. Others in the smaller sized motor classes pull 10MPH on him. But they can't get his 60 foot or ET. I've use MPH to help with timing in the past. When you hit a wall with timing, your ET will be the same but you'll lose MPH. You know you went too far when that happens. Cannot say it enough....60 foot is where it's at. Get that down, the rest is much easier.

Absolutely no reason to go 17 up front, unless you were going tiny out back and moving over to a longer distance. If you're at or near maxed out with 15 up front, you should still be able to get into 5th gear with 16. 1 tooth up front is roughly 2.5 teeth out back. Here's a gearing ratio chart that will help you. http://home.comcast....rratiochart.gif You may have to add a link to your chain, keep that in mind. So I'd put the new sprocket up front and run the chain, rather than go to the track and realize...Holy Shit...who has a chain breaker. LOL.

In 300 foot on a cub you absolutely should get into 5th gear...actually be maxed out in 5th gear. However, if it's spin city....maybe not.

No, you'll want to launch in 2nd. Go 16 up front. At your weight, it will pull that NO problem. It'll also cut down on wheel spin. There's no reason to launch in 3rd. You want to launch in 3rd and be tapped out in 5th gear going through the traps. More tires and 16 tooth up front will make a world of difference. Also play with air pressure. Start out with 8PSI. Then 6, then 4...not changes. On clay/sand tracks, we often ran 2 to 3PSI. We didn't race on pure sand 300ft like you are. It's not lifting because you're lowered AND you're blowing the tires off.

My bad...I thought I read in another thread this was a 10 mil cub. My bad... Depending on the rider weight, track surface, length of arm...very good point Shayne. Your 421 was a raped ape.../

that's what I wrote too on another thread without reading this. At SL...the drag bikes we put in the back of the truck and bring to the drag strip. However, it's whooped out normally so a strut would put you ass over tea kettle real fast. I saw the pictures in another post, so It looks like it's lights, timers and relatively flat. If you can get your car/truck into the dunes, I'd bring a strut just to see what it could do.

On ebay or any forum, I simply will not ship to a foreign country. Not worth the time or headaches. The best ones are when someone from another country asks you to ship to a customs or clearing house in NYC...etc. Scammers...they're everywhere.

I agree...your MPH is there. That 60 foot time, if it's accurate, is absolutely horrid. Are you launching in 2nd gear? Try more paddle (14 extreme at least) and a 16 tooth gear up front. I would bet, without watching a video...you're blowing the tires off 150 foot into the track. Your front end isn't even getting lighter. And this may be tough, but a rear strut for flat drag racing is better. A lot of times a shock, even a Marvin Shaw pumped all the way up to 1400 to 1500PSI will take away from your holeshot inertia. Instead of launching and pushing you forward, it'll soak up some of that power and compress the shock. Tire and gearing to start out...a light rider like you, especially in a pure sand track...15 tooth up front will do nothing but spin. Go 16 up front, launch in second and slip the clutch out, don't just dump it. Without clay or dirt and on flat ground...I don't know if you ever get killer 60 foot times, like 1.3s or 1.4s...but you should be able to shave at least a couple of tenths off that 60 foot, especially being a light rider. Once your 60's drop, your ETs will as well. Anyone worth their salt in drag racing will tell you races are won at the tree and in the first 60 feet. Good luck to ya!!

Holy F'in Shit... I totally forgot about that until now. I just literally laughed out loud. I kinda forgot...didn't I call you and tell you that we suspected you of having porn with minors...or that you received stolen property? All I know is I could tell from the other end of the line your face had to be pitch white...LOL. Thanks man...needed that on a Friday. Hope all is well with you!!

I think you and Tyler would have a drunk, jealousy Jerry Springer type goat love affair going on. It would be good TV/Drama....that's for sure.

I still refuse to go on BHQ rides because I know our tanned and jacked owner/operator of the HQ would try to touch me. I mean...he's fondling a goat...what's next? LOL at threadmining a 2005 topic...that's classic. I've seen plenty come and go around here. I still call this place home. My fan club is not as extensive as Tyler's but I still have a few people on here that would like to be tea bagged by me...I just know it.

Gotcha and understood...didn't mean to start anything either. Tyler was the janitor at the local sperm bank...and look how far he's....come.

Two of my buddies snapped the flywheel end off a twister crank. Not the rods, but the actual flywheel end. Interesting to pull off the ignition cover and have the flywheel laying there, stub and nut still on. Properly lapped, properly torqued and loc tite used. Say what you want about Vitos...I had an issue with mine and it was my fault. The bearing pin needs to be removed and a rubber oring put on it or bearing glue to keep it in the cases...otherwise, my old 10 mil Vitos crank is a rock. Wheelmanslim is still using it. Before that, I had a forged crankworks crank that I put thousands of passes on...and I got it used. If something sounds too cheap to be true, chances are it is.... I read a post about a professional small engine mechanic putting it together...and my thoughts are this. I'm sure he's fine putting together a Tecumseh or Briggs and straton, but that doesn't mean he's any better off than either of us. I wouldn't ask a dealer mechanic to be in a Nascar Pit... Wish you the best of luck...and that carnage sucks for sure.

Sorry guys...TBow is going to do nothing in the NFL..you heard me say it. Anyone that thinks he put the Broncos on the win streak is overlooking the most simple thing. Their Defense. Tbow wasn't that lucky against a pretty good Detroit Lions D, and he got clowned. The only thing TBow is going to do is push Dirty Sanchez. When lazy ass Dirty Sanchez realizes TBow is not a threat to start, rather a 2nd or 3rd stringer that might run a few wild cat plays, Sanchez will go back to being lazy and a nothing. Mark my words, Sanchez will play great the first 2-3 games of the year, then he'll just fade to mediocrity.

It is really hard to give you advice without knowing your whole setup. My advice...is going to be very generic. Put a larger dome in there, 18 or 19 cc and work on the timing. With timing, when you find the spot where your ET doesn't change but your MPH drops...you went too far.

After using Keihin, Mikuni and Lectrons, you'd have to pry my Lectrons from my cold dead fingers. (wait a minute...JT has mine right now...shit...) In all honestly, it's all about personal preference. PWK is the most widely used carb. I've had excellent luck with my Lectrons, which were setup and came from Packard. I find them easier to tune (all the adjustments are made up top, without removing or taking off the float bowl)...but to each is own. Jeff actually used my carbs once (Jeff @ FAST) but he'll tell you he really didn't have a whole lot of time to tune them to his motor. Understandable... Once Packard gets you 90% close with his carb out of the box...final tune, like anything...is on you.

If your porting is any good on your drag banshee then your stock carbs are killing that motor. On the all purpose bike, 35's are ok if there's porting and exhaust to support it. No reason to have two drag bikes....unless that's ALL you do. I'd put the stock carbs on the all around bike...although I still hate stock carbs. 28mm to 33PWK is a good set. You say Paul Turner porting and 17cc domes. What elevation are you at? If you're less than 2500 feet those 17cc domes could be holding you back a bit.

It's one of the things I hope to work with Chris on this year. I have some ideas and he has a lot of clutch tuning experience in cars. I hope we can put something together to make definite improvements and learn!