Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by dajogejr

  1. I"m sorry I missed you guys.  I know what a chore it is to come out all this way...

    Older I get, faster time goes by...and the less of it there is.  Kinda like my hair.


    Damn shame Bryan.  All on me 100%.  Wheelman hollered and let me know....it's all on me.

    Had a great plan for taking the bike out to Milan to surprise you.... and plans went by the wayside.


    Jackie and I talk about a Vegas trip to have some fun.  She's never been.  I'll hit you up if/when we make it out.

    And then there's Tedder.

    Shit, he's only a state away and we've STILL never gotten the chance to meet up.

    Damn shame I tell ya.

    Glad to hear all went well...and again, sorry I missed you guys. 

  2. I have questions as well...
    As already asked, Cam...you run yours with factory curves or programmed?

    10mil, I can't argue with what you said.  Since he already has it...so be it.  I wouldn't spend the money on it when those funds could go towards more useful parts, or methanol and oil.

    After owning your Dyna for 5 years...why haven't you taken the time to program it?  Mat has a dyno, and you guys are buds, I'd honestly like to see what gains could be made by custom ignition tunes.


    After going round and round with "Specialty plugs"...my take is this.  Get the cheapest plug and run it.  Spark is spark.  There's no such thing as good spark, more spark, etc.

    Now, resister vs. non-resistor is important.


    I ran a Nology coil on my old bike.  And to be honest, I did it for a few reasons.  Quality, looks AND functionality. 

    The red leads looked killer, as did the braided ground straps.  The only ignition problems I ever had was Ricky Stator, two of them.  When I went back to stock, never an issue again.


    BBP...you're going to get 10 different opinions if you ask 10 different people.  Do what works for you....

  3. I have ran dynatek for years. No problem. Leave it on the stock setting and your plate a 6 degrees. On stock setting it will advice your timing 2 degrees. My 535 love +8 timing.

    Absolutely no doubt a dynatek will work and could work for this guy.  However, as said...some of the fastest bikes on the planet use the stock ignition.

    I still say get it tuned in with the oil/fuel mixture you intend to use with a stock ignition setup...so you have a baseline.

    Then work on ignition and fuel air...


    If you're not going to use the advanced features of a Dyna CDI, such as custom programmable curves, stutter, Tachometer...I'm not sure why you'd buy a Dyna in the first place.

    It certainly is no more reliable than a stock CDI...


    You could put a boost bottle on your ride for years and not have a problem.  Doesn't mean it helped anything...either.

    I'm going to assume the OP is new to alky and this type of motor.  Keep it simple...and learn from other's mistakes....best advice I could give.

  4. Put a stock CDI back on.  Unless you have the time and resources to get to a dyno and track, with a laptop, etc. 

    I went down that route, trust me.  Then set your plate on 7 degrees to start.  Some of the fastest bikes out use a stock CDI...and stock coil.

    Why would you add more oil after you dial it in, only to have to dial it in once again once you add more oil?


    My advice is 20:1...leave it there, tune it there.

    Why do twice the work and get less protection?


    Forget what "other guys" tell you...see what YOUR motor likes.  +7 and a stock CDI is a good starting point without knowing other specifics about your motor, like port timing, squish, squish band and dome angle, just to name a few.

    • Like 2
  5. More oil in the gas makes it "thicker" for lack of a better term.  It won't flow through the jets/orfices as quickly.


    I agree with badass on the timing, but I'd get the tune figured out first.  Then, add a degree and a little fuel at a time to find the sweet spot.

    I always found the sweet spot when I got my best ET but then the MPH fell off...I'd then back it down until the MPH came back around.


    Obviously, this would have to be same track, same day, relative same time...and same lane.

  6. Make sure you secure the filter to the front of the airbox when you remove the lid, it helps hold it in place.  You'll see what I mean if you haven't already.

    You're in Arizona....so, I doubt you'll be riding in sub zero weather right about now. 


    Depending on rider weight (Load of motor) I think you should start with a 300 main.  More than likely, that'll be rich...and you work your way down.

    I'd buy from 260 to 300 mains (the increment in units of 10.)

    You'll probably have to turn the air screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn as well..


    Try not to make too many adjustments at once.  There's a jetting thread at the top of this section.

  7. Don't forget to rejet once you put the pipes on.

    On a stock port motor, you'll be happier with T5s.

    They're a great pipe.  It will make a WORLD of difference.

    Open up the air intake too.  Either a better filter, remove the lid, etc.

    Need to get more air in as well as out....and rejet, rejet, rejet.

  8. Loco...megabyte me...


    Finch is on... MS security essentials is good. I use malwarebytes as a backup to periodically scan for other infections. Better to install it while you're clean, many infections I've dealt with will block its installation.

    Speaking of infections, if you ever get anal warts...loco is the champ for removal...he calls it hill climbing, but we really know what he means...


    Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

  9. Price and they aren't tuned like a Keihin or Mikuni are exactly the reasons why.

    Let's face it, not many go from alky to gas or back.

    It's really ease of tuning.


    I also found mine to not be as temp sensitive to adjustments.  I could operate the same when temps varied by 20 to 40 degrees...

  10. Now why can't we all pay it forward more ;)


    Power comes from pipe, port configuration, and combustion chamber (dome / head) in my opinion. As Long as your air / fuel ratio is good I don't think carb brand matters. Personally I wonder why lectrons aren't everywhere. They're soooo easy.

    Because they're too difficult for Loco to figure out....LOL.

  • Create New...