dynabanshee

Yea. It doesn't run nearly as well without it though. I was thinking about being daring if it doesn't come and just jump the plug. I just got an reply to my original email saying I have to order it for $25. This contradicts my phone call with them I made later that same day. Hoepfully it arrives as promised. I am confident it will. I''ll post a follow up either way.

I'd just like to let you all know the guys from Dynatek are great. The toggle switch that plugs into the CDI fell off while riding (when you buy one of these I would advise to tape it or zip tie mount it). I called them expecting to have to pay to have a new one shipped out, but they said they would take care of it all. Great service. If you are thinking about a aftermarket CDI, not only is Dyna FS a good product, but the customer service was amazing. I just hope it shows up before we take off to the sand for the weekend.

If you are certain the left carb is fine, it very could well be you have something in your fuel petcock. You could have some debris blocking fuel flow. I would take a look at that. Although it would be weird for it to completely die, while the right side is running fine, it may be the case. On my bike when you run it with the fuel off, the left dies first, probably because the right has a longer fuel line with more fuel in it. Does the left side sound lean before it dies, like when it is reving high before it runs out of fuel?

That's the thing with the turn around. I am sure there is not two weeks of labor involved. That's why I would like to go local, so they can say, Ok, we have time, bring it in, pick it up in a week. That as opposed to having it sit somewhere waiting for them to get to it. I try to go riding at least 3 days out of the week this time a year, so more than 7 days of down time and I start shaking. =) Maybe it is wishful thinking, but that is what I was *hoping*.

Hi, I'm looking for input on a good port for my setup. Also, can anyone recommend someone in the Phoenix metro (East Valley preferred) for a good port job and prices? I'm looking for a pretty quick turn around. I don't need it ASAP, but I don't want to be down for 2+ weeks while my jugs just sit somewhere. My setup: Stock suspension (overhauling shortly) Stock carbs/intake Dyna FS, advanced timing Milled Head, Squish T-5's KN Pods Lightened Flywheel I weigh about 165lbs and do 80% Dunes, 20% Desert. For general duning, I have never really felt under powered. Extra power would be gravy, and I really don't want anything too radical that will impede on general riding. However, for those occassions when we hit the hills, drags and just flat out hauling ass in the desert, I'd like to squeeze as much power out of the motor, again, short of the radical. Is it possible to get a real nice power increase on a port job without having to buy new carbs, reeds and such? Side note: Anyone using a remotely similar setup, what premix do you like to use and it what ratios? I've read a lot of people mixing at 40:1 and 50:1, etc using various premix. I've always used 32:1 Yamalube, but it seems I'm probably just wasting oil. Oh yea: A second side note. I've been using 8 paddle haulers for a while, but it seems I could go higher and hook up more. Should I go 9 or 10? I'm thinking 10 since if I have any problems with carrying them I could just switch out the front sprocket until I make more power (a la port job). heh. Thanks!!!

Guys, You were absolutely right. I had a fair amount of slop in my shift shaft that allowed it to move a good 1/8 of an inch or so side to side. From what I saw, I pushed it all the way to the right the shoulder lever would barely hook up with the shift star. What I did was create a spacer on the shift shaft that went between shift lever and the outer case. I used a very thin nut that was the perfect diameter for the shift shaft. If anyone else has this problem, something like that, or several washers would work. I then put the shift lever as far right as it would go and tightened it down. There is no slack in either direction. Shifts very nicely now. Jason

Thanks for the feedback. It seems the star/shaft issue might be the problem. I'm taking off the cover now to inspect it. Gary, what part of AZ are you in? I am in the Chandler. I might have to grab one of those off of you. If my luck is like anything else, you're probably in Peroria. lol! Thanks! Jason

Hi, I know Banshees are notorious for their tranny's and shifting. I have owned a few and I don't recall having this problem as much as with this one. When I am out riding in the desert or dunes and I am dragging or otherwise shifting through the gears under full power, I have the following problem. This occurs when booth hill shooting or flat surface (ie sand drags). I start in 2nd, power band kicks in, quick shift to 3rd, no problem. Quickly loaded back up , pull in clutch and go to shift to 4th. Damn it! The shift lever lifts all the way up through the motion (or so it seems) but never disengages 3rd and engages 4th. Ok, pin it again for a second and try again. Same thing. Let a little off so the engine is being turned by the wheels a little, pull in clutch and shifts smoothly. The same thing occurs for 4th, 5th and 6th. I have no problem hitting those gears when I am not doing a quick drag style shift. If I am just cruising and I do a non-rushed shift, where I just casually let off the gas, pull clutch, shift, and release clutch there is no problem. It really seems like it has the problem when I am hitting full throttle and do a quick shift motion (using clutch and letting off gas, just doing the motion quickly). The best way to describe it is when your bike is stationary (usually off), and you are trying to move through more than one gear. Where the first gear change is fine, but then the next gear change doesn't disengage/enagage, the shifter just moves up or down with no resistance, and you have to rock the bike to get it to shift again. Any ideas on what this could be? I am going to troubleshoot it this weekend some more to see if it could be some simple stupid issue with the externals: not using boots, just shoes watching for shift level flex etc However, I am hoping this is a issue blatant enough for you repair gurus to point me in the right direction. I bought a shift-pro (yes I know some hate it and some love it), and I am going to try that as well just to see if it helps. I don't think it is clutch related. I've kind of ruled that out since 1 - 3 seem to USUALLY be fine. I have no other tranny problems I notice (noise, hard shifting, pop up of gear, grinding, etc). My problem seems to be isolated to quick shifting while the engine is wound up. Oh, and on an unrelated topic for you guys with a +4 swingarm, what length chain (or even model #) do you need. Any good sites to pick one up at a good price? What about the brake line? Thanks!!!!