BansheeGuy_IV

Still for sale... 1 day on the auction to go. Great deal... On a crank with low hours. BG

Stock Banshee Crank Trued and rebuilt... Has low hours since after being rebuilt. Came out of a 1997. Here is the Ebay link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMESE%3AIT BG

Hey guys, I have over on Ebay... Banshee cylinders, with pistons... Came off a running 1997 Banshee. Here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=4584617558 BG

Hey folks, I am selling a Dyna FS CDI unit and accompanying programmer. The CDI will fit 1997 and newer. I am including the extra/accessory programmer purchased from Dyna. The programmer consists of the cable and software. The whole thing has been used less than 10 hours. I have all the original documentation and original box. The acution is up for sale on Ebay. The opening bid is only $50.00 and the reserve is less than half of retail. Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dyna-FS-CDI...sspagenameZWDVW Thanks guys, BG

Hey guys, The the poster looking for needles. I get all mine from Sudco.com. Pro-flo is good, but they don't quite have the stock that SUDCO has. You can find a nice chart on SUDCO's online catalog section. It'll tell you about the needles, what each letter means... From rich to lean. Take care, BG

Hey guys... It's all but dialed in now. Looks like 160 mains are the ticket with the CEL needles. About the only thing that I might want to try are CEM needles. My lowend doesn't need to be as rich as some of you guys. All the funky bogging and everything is gone. It just took a little bit of tuning. Actually these ended up being easier to tune than my Mikuni carbs. The engine runs great. The airstrykers were a nice upgrade. It pulls a bit further on top now than before, with smoother delivery. I am 100% pleased with the work Jim did. I am as much pleased now as I was a year ago when it was first completed. He's a heck of a guy and a heck of a good builder. I make it a point to send as much of my business his way as I can, not only because he has great service and quality performance, but because he's a heck of a nice guy. ;-) BG

Hey guys, Guess I should have put a little more info. It is a 4mm longrod OEM cyliner, 12 port by Passion. ;-) Rocket pipes, V-force reeds, 35mm Airstrykers. I've got it jetted in pretty good now. I ended up with 160 mains, CEL needles on the 4th groove, #40 pilots. The low end is awesome. It is smooth all the way up to top end. With the 145 mains... 3/4 to full throttle was breaking up... Starving for fuel. I went up to 160 and it cleared up beautifully. Now I just have to do some plug chops... Ride the thing... And maybe tweak it a little to fine tune it. I still may not be done with the needles. I dunno. I am thinking about trying DGL needles next. The DGK and DEK are too rich on the bottom. BG

Hey, Ya'll know my last thread about idling issues... Hey I solved those... I can make it idle with most needles. Just a little tweak to my timing via my Dyna ignition. Now my next hurdle... In neutral it sounds great... You take it under load and it runs like a piece of chit. It ran pretty bad with DGN needles. So I went to CGL needles. It breaks up a bit in the 1/2 to 3/4 range... And it has a strange mid-RPM bog... This must be the bog everyone has complained about. Hehe. It's purely a jetting issue. I didn't have it with my mikuni carbs. Anyway, The EGL needles were much worse... Dreadful in fact. THis is going to be a real bear to jet. I'm startig to wonder if I don't have to replace my 3 year old V-Force petals... They look pristine... But mebbe they're weak... I'm also considering putting my stock CDI unit back on and advancing the t iming the old fashioned way. Anyone have any hints? BG

Hmmm.. So I tried some CEL and CGL needles today. No good. The bottom end is too rich. Very difficult to idle... Very smokey... Loading up... DGN needles are it. Really freakin' wierd... Takes an "N" diameter to dial in my off idle throttle. I'd love to know if anyone else is running C12 and Amsoil at 50:1. It's been raining here for 8 days straight, so I still haven't test rode it. The throttle respnose felt awesome with the DGN needles. I've got to fine tune the pilots though... I think I am actually going to go leaner than 45 pilots... Gonna try 40's tonight with the DGN needles... I just hope the DGN needles agree with the mid and upper RPM range when I go to actually ride it under load. BG

Hmmm... I have an A/F meter. When I get things dialed in I'll give it a whirl. I am running K&N pods with 6 inches of PVC pipes. What fuel and premix ratio are you running Wes? With the C12 108 octane and the 50:1 Amsoil... That's where I think I'm having to lean it out. I've always had to run that particular setup much leaner than most people. When I went to the DGN needles... Not only does it idle... But it now has instant throttle response off idle... Where as before.... It would fall flat on it's face. BG

Hey guys, I dropped in some DGN needles. Yes, I probably have more needles in my garage than most shops have in their supply. ;-p Anyway, With DGN needles, the badboy idles like a champ, with the idle screws. It's still just a hair funky though. It wants to idle a little on the high side to keep from stalling. Not bad, just a little high. I've got 45 pilots in there. I might have to go up on the pilots a little to make her happy. Funny, In the last post I was saying that I usually require leaner jetting than most folks and I attribute it to the amsoil, VP C12, and just my general location in the world... This seems to be the case once again... Like Wes... He's running DEK needles and 60 pilots and he has no idle problems. My shee won't idle, at all, even with DEK and 45 pilots. I've not heard anyone running DGN needles. I've got some more tweaking to do. I don't know that I'll stick with the DGN after I give it a maiden test ride. I may try the CEL and CGL needles I have. So guys... Let me bounce this idea around... The DGN needles... They have a pretty big diameter 2.725 compared to 2.695 for the "K". It mainly should affect off idle through to about 1/4 throttle right? After 1/4 the DGN should be pretty similar to the DGK correct? So if I try the CGL needles... I'm mostly affecting the upper RPM range... Leaner taper... But the diameter is going to be richer than DGN... So I will be going backwards in the idle department which is where I needed them leaned out. THe upper RPM seems good with D or even E series needles. So Hmmm... Alot to ponder. ;-) BG

Wes, I'm at Sea Level. Temp in the 60's. I've got a Passion 12 port, +4mm, V-Force reeds, 17cc domes (VP C12), Dyna Ignition Custom curve +5 degrees, Rocket pipes (Yeah I know I need Shearer now)... I've got the 35mm Airstrykers... 150 main, 45 pilots... And I just tried the DEK needles with similar results... Not much of an idle... Seems a bit better than the EGK though. It's loading up down low... Alot of smoke... Very "blubbery" until about 1/8 throttle. I think I can't get an idle because it's just too rich. What needles are you running? I think I am going to drop in some CEL needles next and then I may have to lean down the pilots. I've found that running C12 with the Amsoil 50:1... I tend to require leaner jetting than alot of folks. Thanks guys, BG

I was just playing with it... It's definitely rich in the needle. The choke as expected... Makes matters worse... It will idle fine though, if I tweak the throttle a little bit. I suspect leaning everything out should do the trick. Ya'll think I should go up on the pilots when I go down on the needles? I Have CEL, CGL, DGK, DEK, EGK, EGL needles... Got a nice mix of all the series. I have every pilot from 40 to 60. Every main from 140 to 160. BG

Aww heck... Some of you have the idle issue and some of you don't. Now I don't know what to do. ;-/ BG

Reded, I am using a Stainless braided cable from Jim at Passion. Really nice cable. Anyway, It's really easy for me to resize the cable. I have universal ends that I solder on. I already had to take 3 inches out of the main cable going to the twist. I would really prefer to have it idle via the idle screws, but I'm not against setting the idle with the cable adjusters. I just don't want to go shortening the cables and adjusting the idles via the cables if in fact it should be idling with the screws. Meaning... If the reason it isn't idling is because my idle circuit is incorrectly jetted then I want to fix it. It doesn't seem to be the case though, because it runs perfect from bottom to top. It isn't loading up. The plugs are a great color. The power comes on smooth throughout the RPM range. But to idle, I have to tweak the throttle about 3/32 of an inch to maintain a nice smooth RPM. This is something I can easily correct with the cable adjusters, but I wanted to rule out the jetting first. Are other folks able to get the 35MM PWK Airstrykers to idle without having to use the cable adjusters? By the way... I appreciate all the advice... Folks chiming in who run the carbs... It makes my job alot easier trying to figure it out. I've spent all my time tuning Mikuni carbs. They are all I used on my setups... 36mm TMX carbs... 34MM TM's... 28MM TM's... They all are very easy to make idle. So this is new territory for me. Thanks, BG

Hey guys, I'm setting up some 35mm PWK's. I've never used them before. I'm having a little difficulty with the idle. I can screw the idle screws all the way in, bottom them out, and it still isn't enough to get the slide high enough to idle. I can make it idle by adjusting the tops of the carbs, but that isn't correct. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I've got 150 mains, EGK needles, 45 pilots. Runs great, just can't get the idle screws to work. Thanks, BG

Hey guys, I need to order up some keihin main jets, pilots, and needles for some new 35mm PWK carbs I ordered. Can anyone suggest where to order them? I'm looking for a place who has them in stock and has good prices. The place I used to use, went out of business a while back. ;-/ Thanks, BG

Rare, Buddy, Pal... Compadre... You hooked me up. After several unsuccessful attempts, I went back and looked at this thread. I took your information from the stock banshee curve and I went from there. Basically, the true stock cruve, goes down to 9 degrees of advance at 10,000 RPM. Well the Dyna Stock curve goes down to 13 at 10,000 RPM's. So when I would advance the timing +5 across the curve, at +18 in the upper RPM, it wouldn't rev... PERIOD. So what I did was... I advanced the timing +5 from your numbers. So 100: 22 2000: 22 3500: 27 10,000 14 11,000 14 12,000 13 13,000 13 14,000 12 And HOLY cow... Basically, it runs like it did with my stock CDI and +5 timing advance at the stator. The only difference is that it revs out MUCH cleaner. It's beautiful. I never would have figured it out without your help. As an aside... If you want any custom curves programmed... I'd be happy to hook you up, free. The dyna timing curves aren't very good as I've come to discover. ;-) Thanks Bro, BG

Rare, So far the first curve I made, I took the stock curve, and advanced the whole thing an additional 5 degrees and tapered it down in the upper RPM range. Well... My "logical" approach completely SUCKED. So mimicking +5 timing advance via the stator plate and stock CDI is not accomplished by just adding 5 degrees to the stock dyna curve. So far Curve #3 is by far the best, so I am going to start tweaking, very gently, from there. And yep my Dyna is stamped 2000. BG P.S. They have not emailed me back yet.

Rare, You read my mind. I actually fired off an email to Dyna earlier today, asking them them if the stock curve is in fact the REAL stock curve from the CDI unit. The stock timing curve, in the MSD ignition, ends up about 10 degrees of advance at 10K, not the 13 the stock curve shows from Dyna. It matters greatly to me, to have a true, stock baseline. If I advance 5 degrees across the board, on the dyna stock curve, I am at 18 degrees of advance in the upper RPM ranges. I suspect that much timing will produce excess cylinder backpressure and ultimately hinder the overrev potential. I run VP C12, but even then I'm a little hesitant to start tweaking without a verified baseline. What I'd like to do is advance +7 very early in the curve... Then have it retard across the midrange so that at around 7-8K I'm at +5 and then by the time I'm at 12k I'd like to be in the +2 range... And beyond 12K... I want little to no advance at all. Once I tweak it, play with it with seat of the pants, I'll see about making some dyno runs... Hopefully Dyna will email me back with a straight answer. BG

Hey Guys, I have a dyna ignition and a dyna programmer. This weekend I am going to start tweaking my timing curves. I was wondering if anyone has spent any time dappling with their timing curves and if anyone has any suggestions. I've been running +5 timing advance with my stock CDI. So I am going to start there, but I am going to increase the timing advance through the midrange and decrease it a little through the upper RPM ranges. I've got a 12 port stroker and rocket pipes for those of you wondering -- with all the bells and whistles to go with it. BG

Hey everyone. It's time to clean out the garage... Literally... I have some stuff I want to sell. First is a set of cylinders .080. They were the last set of jugs I ported before I retired. They're a dune port, ideal for in frame drag pipes. They were ran about 15 hours on the .080 bore. They'd be okay with a hone. I have the pistons that came out of them, also okay. I'd recommend re-ringing. I'd be happy to hone them before shipping. You pay shipping on all items Cost: $125.00 Stock radiator... Good shape. Cost $50.00 Stock crankshaft... Came out of a running bike. Was rebuilt and trued... Would guess there is about 75-100 hours on it -- In good shape. Cost $100.00 Stock shift drum -- Good shape $35.00 Stock axle, rear hubs... Good shape, no rust, not bent... $75.00 There's more, but that's all for now. I'd prefer you PM me than reply to the thread. I don't have alot of time to check for replies, but I can quickly reply to PM's. Thanks, BG P.S. Pictures of any of the above can be provided, upon request. I just have to dig it out and take pictures of it with my digital camera.

I ran a set of Namura pistons. I did a port job for a guy who also decided to try them. His lasted about 2 days before the exhaust side cracked in half and grenaded his engine. I babied mine, they lasted about 6 months. When I went to do rings, I found both of them, cracked down the intake bridges. I'm not suggesting they aren't a quality product. I just won't use them any more. BG

Passion did my 12 port stroker. No complaints. I never recommend builders though, you should decide this for yourself. I can tell you though that I am very happy. BG

Wes, I want to add too, that the jetting is super sensitive. The final tune on mine, came down to a quarter turn of the airscrew. I'm not kidding! 2 turns, no good, 2.5 no good. 2.25, PERFECT! I was actually making the mistake of being a little too "rough" in my jetting. My usual technique for jetting is to get them dialed in "rough" and then fine tune them. The problem with this setup is that the rough tuning is as sensitive as 1 jet size and the fine tuning actually came down to the airscrew. Just something to keep in mind, BG