RNBRAD

Hmm, I have a steering stem.

Cole stole those glasses for his avator. Poor kid.

Chrome doesn't = performance? I have been deceived.

Torch and a metal pipe and do a lot of measurements.

Every man's dream!! Hunny after you finish building my bike I have something else for you to attend to.

Send them to Oscar at Works.

Just bump your compression and advance the timing and you should maintain pretty close to your stock low end.

She prolly just does the small stuff, decals, reflectors, mirrors etc. as to not break a nail. Nope you'd be too busy playing with them instead of making parts.

I believe the noss head does the same thing. The pro-design unit does not. It can be corrected though with a set of trinity domes and possibly noss domes.

Lets see a full front view.

Who me?

Correct!

Be surprised at how many people will double cross their friends. That deserves a severe beating as well. Glad you got it back, good investigation.

We'll if it comes to it, I'll definitely take care of it for ya if it gets too hard.

1st year is the easiest. It gets worse, trust me.

Trinity!!

Glad I'm not the only old fart around here . Happy Birthday!!!

Yes reputable company known for both reliability and performance. As for company's that I know of that use flowbench testing are Duncan, Sparks, Trinity, Alba, Eric Gorr, and would hope but not sure, Patriot ,K&T, A&S, packard, grr and a few others. Just know that having a flowbench and knowing how to use it is two different things. A lot of companies use it as an advertsing medium versus actually test and tune.

I have a Craftsman and a Makita. Both excellent units, maybe not the cheapest but I've been the cheap route before. Cheapest you'll prolly find is a Chicago Electric for around 20-30 dollars from Harbor Freight. Dewalt is another brand that makes excellent grinders.

If we did that then they would have to import it. Problem is this country cannot meet or supply all of our oil and gas needs. Only thing to do is decrease demand or increase production (by building more refineries and tapping into our natural resources). It will never change unless one or both of those things are done.

Well here's my advice, been there many times on many quads. If you have graphics, make sure you line them up, frequently taking seat and placing on quad to see where your at. First put the cover on, get a feal how your seams will line up and make adjustment accordingly. Unfortunaley not all seats are made for a real tight fit according to where the rear seams are at. It really helps to have another set of hands. Take the front pulling taught and staple just a couple to hold in place. Now the rear of the cover, do the same but make sure and get it fairly tight, not a bad idea to actualy make the seat flex or pull the front of the seat making it angle more towards the back. Staple the back with just a few staples to hold in place. Now work the sides, pulling down like a mofo and make sure to pull evenly on both sides. Don't pull to hard on one side and not leave enough material for the other side, seat cover will be uneven. Best thing to do is collapse the foam in the seat center even to the sides you are stapling. Work your way from the middle to the corners. Now go back and reinforce your work with more staples, Good luck, if all else fails, send it to me, I'll do it for you. Also I good idea to use stainless or corrosion resistant staples.

Works connection also, seemed a little pricey though. Got it through Magic Racing.

Nope you all are all wrong!!! J/K I probably should of tried that. I did what DIRTBIKEZ did cept I bolted the friction and metal plate together.

Yea Joel's great to deal with and those brake line clamps are top notch. Post some pics when you get them on.