Titanium

Umm yeah what he said, but remember to Turn off the ignition and fuel before you start kicking.

You CAN... but it leaves you high and dry if for any reason you end up with a slow leak without knowing about it. It's better to just relocate it. The small hoses run from the back of the case to a T which 90's into the water pump, and the other side runs somewhere else. I'd have to go look.

Really, the benefits of Toluene have to be weighed against the costs. The best way to go high octane is the cheapest -- just because the differences between the options are so minimal. I ran small amounts of toluene on my stock compression shee because it smoothed out my top end...but ended up switching over to VP because I can get 110 octane unleaded VP for $3.50 but avgas and Tol were $5+ for me. Whatever works.

That is exactly what happened to me on my last plug chop. Except on the left Also, mine smokes some from both cylinders at idle. this is normal right?

Good, I did and I love it. Anyone that hasn't advanced your timing yet, go do it. Now.

this is a great forum. awesome. But my friend, who rides a raptor 350, needs the same kinda info i get here, but we can't find a decent 350 / Raptor forum, anyone know of one?

Maybe in Cali but in AZ we just need a muffler (check) headlights (check) taillights (check) Signals (arms, check) _A_ mirror (check) Horn (Check) Plate (Check) I have all of these already for my shee, it's legal on the street...but like that R1 shee, except using the stock setup, not a different engine. Wide A-Arms and axles for a wide track, maybe two mirrors off the ends of the bars... I've heard of the mini-tach, but is there a speedo that could be hooked up to a shee?

Has anyone ever built a shee designed for street use? Not a drag bike, but a true road machine, like a crotchrocket with 4 wheels. I think it would be kindof a neat idea. Get longer A-arms, extended axles, twist throttle... or maybe this just occurs to me because It's possible in Arizona? I dunno.

*Bump* Should I up a jet before advancing or not?

Did a plug chop yesterday, it looks very similar to 2stroker's chop, so I think i'm good on my main, right now a 320. I'd like to go ahead and advance the timing +4, and I already have a RS adjustable timing plate. Should I bump up to a 330 before advancing the timing, or advance and see how it goes? BTW...when doing the the chop yesterday, before doing the actual run, I topped it in 5th, kept it running, clutch in, no throttle, and whitish smoke began pouring out of the left side pipe. It was still coming out at idle, so I shut it down for a minute then started it back up, and it ran fine, no smoke, so I continued with my chop. No more smoke after that. Any ideas?

Use a higher quality paint. Fusion sounds cool and all, but chances are if you have to shake the can before spraying, it won't last. A friend's we did last weekend cost him $54 for all the chemicals, a beautiful metallic gunmetal color, sprayed awesomely, no chips, very durable finish.

I'm from the turbo saturn world. We use WBo2's and the Megasquirt to give us the fuel we need for boost. If your header WBo2 tells Mega to lean you out, it's all over. I've never head that toluene drys up your seals, which are the ones to worry about? float bowl seal?

Running heavy ratios of Toluene for long durations is known to cause O2 sensor malfunctions, but not bad for your engine. (Till your o2 wigs out and leans you to hell)

Yeah, if you run straight Toluene it can be difficult to start because of the high firing point of toluene. Find a painter friend, they usually can get these chemicals at great discounts.

For anyone interested in running Toluene race fuels, Here are a few tables I compiled a while back. For 5 gallons of gas OCTANE | Toluene in Gallons 91 0 92 .23 93 .5 94 .75 95 1.1 96 1.4 97 1.8 98 2.2 99 2.7 100 3.3 101 4 102 4.7 103 5.5 104 6.6 105 7.8 I originally made the tables for turbo cars. If anyone wants more numbers crunched, I can make a graph for it. While on the topic, what effect does running straight toluene have on a shee? It's not very good for our modern cars because of emissions equipment and the like, but I'm not all the knowlegeable about it's effect on small engines. Leme know.

The last guy to tune my carb did so with 24:1 oil mixture in mind, and that is what I have been running, but recently decided to go back to 32:1 for performance. What will I need to do to my jetting to adjust for this? I ran it with the new mixture, and it seemed to bog more up hills, and doesn't pull as long in the powerband. I am thinking this is a rich condition (more gas, less oil for unit air right?)

No rez. like i said, the one shot out oil only and the other shot a puff of air and then nothing.

out of curiousity the other day, i took the stem caps off the top of the struts and tapped the valve to see what was in there. in the left side one, was air, greasy smelling air. it didn't last half a second either, it was completely uncharged. I then tapped the right one and some type of fluid was in there, and i'm almost positive it was WD-40 or equivilent. anyway I was wondering what was really supposed to be in there and how i can fix whatever is up with it.

Unscrew the 2 screws just enough to where there is play in the pickup coil, rotate the flywheel to the notch, stick a feeler in there and get it lined up, have someone screw it back together while you hold it in place. I think that is what you are talking about.

Revised Price! It needs to go, $2,500 obo

Where do you guys get your oil? The local shops around here only deal in Bel-Ray and Yamalube.

*bump*

Yeah I went through a stage of wanting to do that...But I simply don't have the time to do that, although I would like to.

For any of you who don't remember me, I've been having nasty problems with my banshee since I bought it. It was a trinity 420 longrod with 19cc domes, all the goodies. But now that engine is gone, I tore it down and the machine shop told me the cylinders had ovaled and the head was warped beyond belief. I then put a new stock engine back on it, with the standard dual carb setup, and It runs and rides beautifully now. It has also been cleaned up nicely and has newer plastics on it. It's basicly a totally different bike. It still has the following mods: full FMF fatty pipes UNI pod filters mild port and polish cylinders works front suspension Arizona Street Legal (horn and mirror) RS 200w Stator 909 bars twist throttle I'm asking $3000 obo

I had their porting on my last engine, it was very nice.