blacknred03

I just got my shee back togher after a "lean" run, apparently I should label the pre-mix and straight gas cans better for people, and was breaking it in at my buddies place. It is pretty much all straight country dirt roads and I thought it would be a good place to break it in. the first day I put about 5 gallons through it but it is set up pretty rich. The next day some of my buddies showed up and some kid had a 450r that was supposed to be the end all, it had the HRC kit and a pipe and on some Oxygenated gas? I heard him talikng about how he puts down like 60 at the wheels and this and that, the whole time eyeing the shee. So after a while we were crusing and he pulled up along side me. second through 4th we were dead even, granted he had new holeshots and I had 3 year old stockers on. 5th and 6th would just walk away every time, pretty bad. After we rode we were talking and I found out he had a taller gear, which I was suprised at. He also claimed to top out at like 105 or so, so he guessed I topped out at like 110 or 115. He refused to belive me that I was lucky to get 90 out of it. Later on I rode it and all I can say is that it is totally different. The front end wants to come up bad, and it is super squirly in the sand. It is also so loud it left my ears ringing. It also burned about a quart of oil in the weekend.

About to restart after blowup, no holes in pistons just pitting on pistons facing the front of the bike. FAST dune play port sea level pump gas 20cc domes v3's stock carbs 360 mains stock pilots 4th clip + 4 timing .2 wiscos noss head I started it fired up on the 1st kick, did acouple of idle heat cycles. Around 90 psi in each cylinder, the compresssion tester did not screw into the domes very easy so that could explain the low numbers or the unseated rings. Also can i open the rad and see if the water pump is flowing. I have a billet impeller but the blowup looks like it was a result of overheating. I also have the side case rattle/noise.

Who does good machine work in the Houston area?

Free Photo Hosting - PicTiger Fast dune port 20 cc domes cool head v3's 36:1 320 mains 5th clip sea level Stock carbs No lid and k@n +4 timing plate had about 2 hours on it, not beat on at all. Can I get away with a hone and pistons? Go up to a 340?

I just got back my FAST dune/play port with: welded crank stock carbs v-3's noss head, 20cc, 93 octane, sea level k&n no lid I started with 320's on the 4th clip and stock pilots. The motor started but only ran on one cylinder. After a few hours of messing with it I switched the spark plug wires around and now it run on both cylinders. I used the old popcicle stick method to sync the carbs but I was worried it was way off so I ordered Jeffs synch tool. I was very close but it was nice to know for sure. I highly suggest this tool takes alot of the guess work out. AS far as the performance I switched to Motul 800 and mix it at 40:1. It was a little boggy around 1/8th throttle so I went to 1 full turn out on the pilots from 1/2 a turn not that much of a diffrence. Should I go to 27.5 pilots? I took it pretty easy for the first 1.5 or 2 tanks. Now i give it full throttle but only for like 2 or 3 seconds, is this ok? Next time I ride I will do some plug chops but I wanted to know if I was headed in the right direction? What do you think about my domes?

My jack ass cousin has a 05 Wolverine and last week he hit a tree and bent his rim. He went to the stealership and they wanted, i hope you are sitting down for this one, 230$ for a right front rim. Are 05 wolverine rims made of bald eagles or albino tigers teeth or something. Where could one go besides ebay to order one? Yeah I said 230.

If you are running stock intake boots with the air box it will cram everything up and not seal good.

Yeah Jeff wanted to run t-5's but I had the fatty's, but I ride mostly trails and stuff

I am at sea level with the following: FAST dune/play port Noss head with 20 cc domes Stock Carbs No lid, debating going no airbox Stock stroke Fattys Tell me what ya thank

On the outer crank bearings where do you place the little nipples in the bearings? Do you put them in the grooves on the lower case? I read some thread from like 20 years ago where some guy put the cases back and the pressure snapped the little nipples. Also my new bearings came with o rings, do I use these? It seems that the oring will only fit into the side without the half moon clip.

I thought you could not rebild an auburn?

If you run spacers do you still have to trim the stock intakes

Crusy Demons of Dirt #4

I am running some Memphis audio components, they are pretty cheap and sound good. A good place online is online car stereo, they have a 1 year warranty and replaced my alpine components when they went out.

I have an Ingersold Rand, twin cylinder I got to run a framing nail gun when I was building my house. It is small so I can take it with me when I ride.

After you PC'd in a oven it pretty much ruins it, trust me I found out the hard way

jbooker82, is that a bullitt back there?

how much for just the subs

I am waiting for my jugs to come back and I just finished my TORS kit and snce I have the carbs out I guess I can throw in something close. Here are my mods: Stock stroke FAST dune/play port FMF fattys, I know I know... Stock carbs NOS head V-3s +4 timing running airbox with no snorkel and a K&N Houston Texas, sea level O.K go

A arm pics? [email protected]

I will take them but I don't have pay pal. Where are you located?

I am in the process of splitting my cases for the first time and I have a few questions. What size is the big nut that holds the clutch basket in? You know the one you have to buy or make the tool in order to remove. Also I have been running with my TORS junk bypassed for a while but now that I am this far I want to get rid of it for good. Should I get a TORS eliminator or new carbs? I am running a stock stroke with a FAST port job, I know that stock carbs are fine but in order to get rid of the TORS it might be worth it. Or what about a single carb setup?

I sent off my stock jugs to Jeff at FAST for a play/dune port, in the meantime what else do I need. Should I mill my stock head or get an aftermaket one? I am going to get my flywehhl lightned and send off my crank to get welded and trued as soon as I get around to splitting the cases. As far as reeds is delta force 3's the way to go, and who has the best deal on them? I am going to stay with the stock carbs and fattys for now, is this a huge mistake? I also ordered a RS timing plate. My bike had low hours on it, but should I put a new top end on while it is down, I guess Jeff could hone and set me up with this? Where is a good place to go to get all new gaskets and stuff like that I will need for reassembly?

I went and looked at a yfz today and got them down a little on the price, it looked like the old shee might be gone until they were going to give me 1500$ for it. So now I am all fired up about modding the shee. I have a 03 with k&n, fattys , and a 14 tooth sprocket upfront. I want to get a bunch of boltons that I will be able to use later on for a more agresssive buildup. I was thinking having boonman do my flywheel and mill my head. I live in Houston, sea level, so what would be a good mill on pump gas? A RS timing plate. Reeds and cages, I have no idea which ones! And a Gorr woods port, I noticed his website said they were closing for the summer, what is this all about? Any ways what else do I need? I ride wide open dirt roads and woods, no dunes. What type of power or problems with YFZ's and Hondas would I have with this setup? Thanks.

Revs up fine, but when I put it in gear acts like both plugs are fouled. I have replaced them several times. All stock except for pipes and a K&n. Help