Percy

I need risers for my T2's but local dealer is advising anti vibro risers at twice the price. Anyone used these? any good? any web site links for more info appreciated, Cheers, Bruce

It is a breeze. I just put a Durablue axle in, and while I did it, I took off the bumper, A and D arms and swingarm and had the whole lot powder coated. Real easy to replace the bearings in the axle carrier, all sealed. Buy from a bearing shop, not the dealer. Only about $8 for both, plus the seals. Pack it with loads of grease and you are away. The after market axle has much better mechanism and you should go wider, while U r at it. I also re galvanised all the bushed covers etc, so it is looking quite trick. Not a hard job. Want to do the frame next. Thats a bit more work. Cheers, Percy

Hi Guys, Recently put a near rear light (same wattage etc) Started the bike and all was well. Started it a few days later, now I got no light at all. None front or back. I have no light switch as it is wired permanently ON. Have not touch any of the wiring on the front. Pls advice what I can check to try find the prob... There was a broken wire coming from the CDI to the rear lights, that I re joined. Since then, no lights at all. If I un join it, still no lights at all.... Thanks, Percy

www.thebansheezone.com is gone now. It was a kewl site, but no longer there. I started getting the bearings out, got the seals out, now battling to get the bearings out. Will continue tonight. Cheers, Percy

Hi Guys, How do I get the rear axle carrier bearing and oil seal out easily? I had a quick look and it looks quite complex Appreciate any advice beofre I attempt it, Cheers, Percy

the ones on the D arms were easy. Used a piece of bar an dknocked out from the inside. Still trying the A arms, harder as need a much longer bar, so less leverage. Cheers, Bruce

Hi Guys, My powder coater says I must remove the teflon A arm bushes. Any advice on removing them? Do they damage easy? What is the best tool? Cheers, Bruce

Does anyone know roughyl what a Banshee (normal mods (pipes, etc) will do 0-60mph? We all rekon they feel much faster than our cars, but want to know some times, if anyone has timed it? Cheers, Percy

I am strippind down the shee and want to do the swingarm, rear axle carrier, a+d arms and radiator grill the same color, 1) Can I get the metal parts sprayed, rather than PC. Will get a carbody shop to do the spray professionally. 2) Can I spray the plastic radiator grill? 3) Can I spray plastic engine side covers as well? Cheers, Percy-Zn

I put the spacers in, but ended up bending the stock axle, so put a durablue axle anyway. Do mostly hard trail riding and some jumps, so shoulda gone with the durablue in the 1st place. Luckily my local dealer took the spacers back. DB axle looks very trick as well...

At present my rear rims are flipped around, to be a bit wider. I am putting rear axle spacers on, as do mostly trail riding and want some more width. When I fit them should I flip the rear rims back to std, and only rely on the spacers for width, or can i leave the rim the way they are, plus the spacers, for even more width? Will axle be under too much pressure? Fronts are not flipped around. Cheers, Percy

Hi, I live at around 2500ft above sea and am jetted as such, with DG pipes and a Durablue filter. (Run with lid on, as do a lot of trails in mud etc) We are doing a ride into the mountains. Will start the ride at 4500feet and go to 9000feet above sea. We will only be on this ride for about 6 hours. I understand I will have a horsepower loss and the bike will run rich on the ride. Can I just remove the airbox lid for the ride, or do I have to rejet for such a short ride? I normally use 97 octane leaded gas, with Motul 600 at 33:1. Should I use the same fuel and mix for this ride, or will it help if I mix the fuel a bit leaner? Say 40:1, more oil=less fuel=leaner? Right? Should I put new plugs just before the ride? and use normal gap? Appreciate any advice. Cheers, Percy

I just trashed the stock front brake system, cause of brakes going soft on me. I put braided stainless hoses in, and apart from the saga to bleed them (Now solved) they are awesome. Look really trick and work a treat. I canned the 1 into 2 arrangement and have seperate hoses running from the master to each caliper. Seems to be much better. In South Africa, these hoses cost me R700 ($120) Small price to pay 2 b able to stop! Percy-Zn

Yeah, our local stealer is actually not too bad. But the prices we pay for parts in Sout Africa will shock you guys, In the US, you have such wide choice and such good pricing. We pay ove the top for parts, so when I can fix something myself, I always prefer it. Also gr8 to understand each and every part on the bike. Anyways, thanks again Cheers, Percy-Zn

Well guys, after spending all weekend pissing around trying to bleed my brakes, I finally took all the advice that has ever been written in this forum and set about it again this morning. Used a "One man bleeding kit" ($5 from local store) It's a little bottle with a magnet to hold it high on the bike, and 2 pipes, each with an adapter to fit on the bleeding nipples. Basically, just attach the system, open the nipples and then sit on the bike with a cold beer and pump away on the lever. Lo and behold, after 10 mins, all the air is gone and the front brakes work again. Now with braided hoses and no T piece. What a result. Thanks to all who helped with me with this. Saved me going to the strealer. Shot guys. Cheers, Percy-Zn