99LRDblaster

unless he hits a tree or the motor gives i think your in some deep shit. i think he could still win even if he does crash in the run because he will still be sliding and flipping at an incredible rate of speed. i forget where i saw it but i remember seeing those CR500's make about 60-65hp stock and they are lighter. supposively the KX500 is bit better drag bike but ive never had experience for it. at one time i was thinking about buying a CR500 just for dragging purposes and then i rode a CR125 this weekend and i relaized i better not.

im not a big fan of vitos personally. i just trust wiseco pro-lite becaus ethey are forged and been proven in blasters. they may deal better with banshees i dunno. anyways i had marc at hollywooddirtproductions port my cylinder but he does many other services and he has great prices and will work with you every step of the way. i got my top end with cylinder head and carb back and i was amazed at how flawless his engine work was on my blaster. www.hollywooddirtproductions.com

any thoughts?

if your talkng about dragging stock for stock the banshee doesnt even win that battle. the DS650 and quadzilla both beat it. once you get into mods though the banshee reigns everything then. and yes ive seen it tested with multiple riders and and they were all running great.

if you are using a paper grade gasket you use yamabond on both sides of it. other gaskets a silicone based and self seal. the head gasket never needs anything applied but one thing that does help on sealing it is the permatex copper spray a gasket it. it fills any minor inpurities in the surface to prevent air leaks and gasket wear.

if your into MX and no dunes then definitely go with the 250R. you will be much happier however the KFX aint a bad wuad either with some stronger parts and frame reinforcements.

cant drill the stock mikuni. it will irritate the indentations in the main jets and the needle cant seal. causes a major pain in the ass. they are only like 3 bucks a piece anyways.

it will just take out the scratches. however to remove stress marks just take a heat gun and heat it up. ive done this on my blaster and they come right out. ive never tried a blow dryer but im assuming it would work.

well i have been busy rebuilding nowusheeitnowudonts banshee but one thing i did notice was that his swingarm wants to move if you grab the sides of the axle and move them in an up and down motion(one side up and other down) that the singarm wants to twists. its not the axle bearing because the axle doesnt move just it twists up top by the pivot joint on the swingarm. i havent really taken any time looking at it yet but what do you think it is?

heres what i go by. 1:for break in go through first tank of gas with a semi synthetic or petro based oil such as golden spectro. 2:after top end is installed rejet HEAVY to insure there is no leanness. 3:start bike up and let it idle and and give it just a TOUCH of gas/check plugs 4:repeat cycle at least 3-4 more times gettinga big more aggressive however not so much as to rev it all the way out. this keeps the rings from wearing in at a certain point. varying the rpm is key in break in so the rings seat properly. 5:now go for a ride but dont go past 1/4 throttle but kepp going up and donw on the gas. 6:repeat but at 1/2 throttle 7:repeat at 3/4 throttle 8:ride as you normally would but dont run it real hard just semi aggressively. 9:check compression with tester to insure rings are seated. 10:rejet if need be. in between all of these runs let the engine return to STONE COLD.

i didnt really clean up much on the intake side of it. i removed the center casting flaw and the kinda smoothed out the bridge port where it met the sleeve but leaft it pretty much the same. i did polish the head chambers and i cleaned up the transfers and left them rough. what are some ways to clean up the stock intakes a bit better?

is it safe to run the stock internals on the shee with .030 off the head? you just slap it on a lathe right? there is a machine shop nearby and i might suggest it to a friend if everything else internal is fine.

they aitn doing no 90mph or 100mph on their 400's. frankly i think there might be a problem with your shee. i would do some plug chops and check the compression and for air leaks. they could beat you but it takes a quite a bit for an EX to take out a shee even if it is stock. once you slap on pipes and get going 100% you should take care of business and be in the 78mph range give or take a few.

im rebuilding nousheeitnowudonts 97 shee and it went up in smoke last year from running waaaay too lean. at the time it had T5's on it and it seemed fine suprisingly(nobody had ever checked the jetting) but after he bought a 2:1 filter it went boom and melted the piston crown and melted the rings to the piston. while we were pulling the cylinders i decided to take the carbs off and check the jetting for the first time because the carbs are getting rifled by HDP. i just about fell face first inot the floor. it was running T5's all this time and ran seemingly fine with the STOCK 200 main and 25 pilot and clip position. i was just flat out astonished. we are at sea level too in west central ohio. anyways he is going to have this list of mods when we get it together: toomey T5 exhaust, toomey 2:1 filter with outerwears, boyesen pro series reeds, wiseco 20 over pro lites, polished(not ported)exhaust port, and polished head(from piston fragments), and stock carbs bored and rifled to 28mm. im not quite sure where to start out because i dont follow shees all that much but im assuming to start with like a 320 main, clip in 4th or 5th postion, and leave stock pilot in? is that ok for break in? i just want to make sure i start it rich.

well i am rebuilding nowusheeitnowudonts 97 shee and i had to polish up his head chamber and exhaust port because of excessive carbon buildup and parts of the piston melted to it. i know the head getting polished wont give it any HP but it will resist the carbon building up on it. however do you think polishing the exhaust port would give it any? pieces of the piston were embedded in it so i took a dremel and got the piston out of the port and then i started with 220 grit sandpaper and worked my way down 400, 600, 1000, 2000 grit. it is really nice and shiny now and would resist carbon nicely. do you think the gases would flow bit better out fo the cylinder? also while his banshee is out i want to polish the outside of his cylinder. do you think starting with 220 and working my way down to 2000 grit will get a nice shine out of it?

if it -->sputters<--- than it is too rich. if it is just hesitating and not sputtering than its lean. before changing i would just do a plug chop in that range your having probs.

i dont really blame marc. he has explained it on his boards NUMEROUS times on why he feels the reasoning he does it. i decided to gow ith his work because it looked very promising and was what i wanted. the main support for me going with it was his customer support and his previous customers. all of them have said they felt a stronger motor with the carb rifling and any of his work period. the reason the rifle carb falls off later on is because its nothing but overrev. overev equates to nothing but damage to the engine and no power.

here is the dyno sheet. the red line is the rifled carb and the green line is the stock carb.(dont mind the HP numbers, they are low because it was just a test to see the curve on the motor not to find the most power)

my friend "nowusheeitnowudont" is getting his stock 26 mikunis rifled by HDP. i only want him to rifle it and go up to 28mm because his engine is stock on porting and only has T5's, boyesen reeds, 2:1 filter, and soon to have the stock carbs bored to 28mm and rifled. the design works. on their message boards daputz dynoed his rifled blaster carb and it made NO more peak hp than the stock carb, HOWEVER the power was improved down low coming on quicker and stronger and better through midrange. i see no reason why this would not work on a banshee. i put a lot of trust in marc at HDP because i just had him put his port design 3 on my top end, rechamber and mill my head, and bore and rifle my stock carb to 30mm. the rifling DOES work. many companies use swirl techniques for their heads. one example is the powerstar heads for 250R's. the rifling of the exhaust port scavenges gases out of the motor which would cause oen to think of as a bad thing, however the expansion chambers holds most of the back pressure for the motor so the rifling is essentially making the motor works more efficiently and better. the polishing of the intake ports is basically a matter of opinion. some people want it for fuel and oil atomization however i beleive after the charge is rifled through the carb, pre mixed in the gas, and passes over the reed cage its basically atomized. im hoping to get my blaster together soon to see how HDP's work does . however i will give a report on its benefit on a banshee when my friend rebuilds his shee. he is getting the ridling done by HDP. also marc at HDP is looking to do banshee porting in the future.