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Lightninn2

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Everything posted by Lightninn2

  1. Did the clutch seem to fail all at once while riding it? Did it fail while you were holding the clutch lever in while coasting at a high rate of speed? If you answer either or both of these questions with a yes, then you have most likely welded the clutch ball to the pushrod that actuates your clutch pressure plate. The fix begins with buying yourself a repair manual and reading the clutch section thoroughly. Once you feel capable of performing the disassembly yourself then start taking the right side engine cover off and digging into the clutch assy. If you don't feel comfortable with wrenching on it yourself then take it to a reputable shop. The clutch ball and pushrod are behind the pressure plate. You'll have to remove the pressure plate to gain access to them. Once off, use a telescoping magnet (looks like a pen/pointer) to retrieve the ball and pushrod out of the center of the mainshaft. You'll probably find that the ball is welded to the end of the pushrod. Replace them both with new and grease them thoroughly with moly grease upon reassembly to help prevent future welding. This info will get you started. Hope it helps.... Lightninn
  2. If I remember correctly, the heads of those bolts are 12mm. Those type of bolts are called flanged hex head bolts. Again if I remember correctly, a 12mm head bolt has an 10mm thread. Now I'm going from memory, so I'm not positive. A good way for you figure the size is take out a good bolt from the grab bar and take it with you to where you are going to purchase the tap. You can then make sure you have the correct diameter by sight and test the pitch by seeing if the tap and bolt threads you have mesh when placed beside each other.
  3. Dude, Here's another prime example of a dealership spreading false info. I've found that just because they are a dealership, it does NOT mean they know what they are talking about. For the record, simply removing the T.O.R.S. system and replacing it with simpler carb tops does not guarantee you'll sync the carbs any better than you can with the T.O.R.S. sytem installed. T.O.R.S. stands for Throttle Over Ride System. It is a safety system designed to kill the engine if either of your carb slides stick open when you let off the throttle. It has nothing to do with synchronizing your carbs. You'll still have to go through the process of sync'ing your carbs even after you install the new tops through cable adjustment. Let us know if you need help with carb sync'ing.
  4. Thanks Led... just trying to help.
  5. All of the aftermarket 3 piece billet stator covers are going to be over $250.00 Your cheapest option will be to go back to an unmod'd stock cover. Even the TM Designworks cover doesn't offer much protection as far as the front sprocket. It actually is a two piece cover instead of a 3 piece. Perhaps you'll get lucky and find a used one on ebay.
  6. The first thing to do is change the plugs and see if you get fire. If not, then the fact that it has sat so long would lead me to look for corrosion where the harness grounds to the frame. One place to inspect is near the CDI box behind the seat. Remove the bolt that attaches the black wire to the frame and sand that area clean and sand the wire connector, too. Replace and try again. Next remove the coil and sand where it attaches to the frame and the surfaces on the coil mount. Also unplug the two small wires from the coil and clean their connectors and the connectors on the coil. If that doesn't work, post again and I or someone can explain how to dig further.... Good luck!
  7. Here's a pic of grooved Turf Tamer like I described...
  8. I believe LRD will lengthen your stock swingarm as well.....
  9. Hockey390, The part you removed from the thumb throttle is a microswitch. The way the T.O.R.S. system works is it senses with switches that both of the arms your throttle cable is attached to (on top of the carbs) as well as the lever arm inside your thumb throttle housing are in their 'home' positions when the throttle is not open. If either of the carb slides are open even a little and the thumb throttle is at its home position, the system kills the engine. If you want to totally remove the saftey system, unplug the thumb throttle microswitch from the harness, next unplug both the wires coming from the stock carb tops, and lastly unplug and remove the small 'box' located left of the coil on the frame under the fuel tank. That should remove the system entirely from the harness. The downside of this is that if your carb or carbs get stuck open for some reason, the engine will just rev away like you've witnessed. If this happens while riding, you'll have to have kill the engine yourself with the switch at the left handgrip or with a tether switch if you ever come off it. Lightninn
  10. Grooving a tire means to literally cut grooves into the tread to make the tire bite better for a given terrain. It also applies to knobby tires when certain knobs are removed to alter the knob pattern. A typical groove pattern on a turf tamer tire is to cut two knobs on the outside shoulder, leave three knobs, then cut off the remaining two. On the next row, leave three, cut two, then leave the final three. Then repeat that pattern all the way around the tire. That offers larger knob spacing which helps them hook better. It also causes them to wear faster, but you can't have everything. Lightninn
  11. One thing to consider also is that a strutted rear end is much more consistant than a shock. The quad will react the same each time during the launch as far as the suspension is concerned. It essentially takes one of the changing variables out of the equation. As a shock begins to heat from multiple runs, it's motion will change as far as compression and rebound speed. A solid vs. suspended rear end will require different set ups in tire selection and/or tire pressure to achieve optimum launch at the line. Lightninn
  12. The tires of choice for dirt drags are as mentioned before -- Pro Wedge II's, Grooved Turf Tamers, Ohtsu radials (400EX OEM tires), and the Dunlop radials (Raptor OEM tire). Whitch tire is the best depends on the track you are competing on. You will have to experiment with different tires to find the one that works best for you. Lightninn
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