TheBansheeMan86

how much for the wiring harness (no tors boxes or anything, just wiring) shipped to 98926?

same kind of thing happened to me. riding at sea level at oregon dunes on the flats. i had ported pistons that were machined for advanced exhaust timing, +4 timing, .030 milled head, t5s, spacers, carbon tech reads, k&n clamp ons, running 360 mains with toomey needles on clip 4 of 6 from top. plenty rich, but blew 1 piston bout 1/2 way through powerband. stumped the shit out of me. i was running 92 octane pump gas, as i always do. only explanation was that everything else was advanced but my fuel. my ignition timing was advanced, my exhaust timing was advanced, my compression was upped, and there was twice as much fuel flowing through my pistons. i (along with several other engine builders) couldnt figure it out. many ignorant retards would instantly say "leaned it out" but my plugs were perfect, and my bike was actually running a little too rich that whole trip. long story short, i have no idea wtf happened.

ok i took that part number to work and found what i could. sylvania only makes those in 50, 20, and 37 watt. the part number for the 37 is : 37MR16/IR/SP10/C #58641 would you be able to run these bulbs safely even though they are each 2 watts over stock? if you could, this would be an easy way to get a little more brightness with stock stator. someone please advise, i am really thinking about getting the trailtech lights, and am looking at options to get as bright as possible without spending a lot of money (and keeping stock stator) Thanks.

im not sure about the paint on the outside holding up, but i know if you paint the inside of the front header (by the cylinder) with a high temp white paint it helps that part of the pipe from turning yellow/blue/purple (on chrome pipes). might be a try for yours too?

just curious whats the difference between running a non oring and an oring chain? of course other than the presence of the orings. is it just the cheaper way to go or what? i run a DID Gold X-Ring and love it.

well its not much cheaper, a stator is 200 bucks plus 115 for the trailtech lights plus about 5 bucks for the bulbs is 320. i think you said the HIDs are 150 each so thats 300 plus 30 for regulator and 20 for battery so 350. i'd only be saving myself 30 bucks by not doing hid.

if your frame is blue, i would get your lower arms in black and uppers in chrome. that would look sick

i have a hush kit for when i ride in oregon (i only put it on if they're actually out there checking sound) and i notice NO power change. toomey says "if anything it will actually give a little more power" but there is NO power change at all. i've ridden many times with it on/off and notice nothing (except not as loud )

ok sweet. i get yamaha parts at cost so i'm not too worried about it. thanks

where'd you get the grill at?

howdy im gonna get my frame and hubs powdercoated and need to know everything i need to do to prep it. im gonna strip my bike down and grind off all the unneccasry tabs and large weld drips,etc but i dont know how to take out the steering stem bearing, and same with the hubs, how i should remove the bearings and seals without ruining them or if thats impossible, if its worth it to get new ones etc. im finding a place to get my frame blasted or dipped right now. once its done, do i have to do anything special to clean out the threads on my frame or hub lugs? like use tap/die to clean them out? plz any tips and tricks on this would greatly help. thanks.

NOT BY USING CAPS LOCK

how much for the ricky stator job?

whats the sylvania part number for each the 50 and 35? btw thanks

so justin, can the stock stator run the 50 watters or can it only push 35? i found this on sylvania's site http://ecom.mysylvania.com/sylvaniab2c/b2c/z_login.do i think the ones you are talking about are the 50MR16/NSP/RP(EXT) 12V part number 58629. it seems to only show 50 and 20 watt lamps, with one 35, but the 35 is a different base, plus i think its flood so its not a narrow beam. what would it take to be able to run 50s? just a higher output stator or what? i want to do this setup but not spend too much money on it. whats the cheapest way of going about getting more power (new stator, rewound, etc) thanks

post a pic

what beam angle are they? and also, what size bulb can you run while still using stock stator? thanks

i have 2 questions: first, how much are these trailtech stock replacement lights (for stock stator) and second, the sylvania bulb you're talking about, could you tell me EXACTLY what the sylvania part number is for it? i work for Consolidated Electrical Distributors so i can get anything from sylvania but i need part numbers. Thanks.

the tusk shift lever BLOWS. it flexs like CRAZY, the bolt always comes loose, and the "chrome" around where it mounts is flaking off from tightening it too much (tight enough to keep it from being loose), and it rubs on my footpeg. i wouldnt pay 5$ for another tusk shifter. i mean it looks nice, but is a POS.

tip- a chain slider is fairly important, especially if your stock roller is gone, because your chain just wears right through your swingarm lol, not good. plus they are cheap enough to put on the top of your list.

now, you want to put your needle down one clip position or the clip down one position? you want to move the clip down one position, which raises the needle, not lowers it.

right behind the headers.

how many LEDs are u running to get that brightness? and how are you wiring them? can you run them off a stock stator? or are you gonna be too sweet and be like "cant tell its a secret u have to buy my kit"?

ok i think i get it. the area of the balance holes is thicker than lets say the opposite side. so when u lathe it down, it might not even touch the other side if the hole side sticks out more... right? i think i understand but cant explain it at 4 in the morning. btw, who, is it boonman?, lightens flywheels for people? how much is it, and what kind of power difference does it make?

yeah i dont understand how it would be balanced either, assuming u are running the lathe over the balance holes. since then the bit would be taking material off, but wouldnt be taking any off where the holes are so it would look like this ------------- - - - - - --------------------------- - - - - - -------------------------- - - - - - ---- and so on. if that makes sense? say the flywheel without the holes wasnt balanced, so yamaha had to take weight off one side. well if u take 1/4" off the diameter lets say, or even enough to eliminate the holes completely, then you are technically back at step 1, where yamaha had to put holes in it to balance it, because now you have no holes.