duneslinger

i was asking about the windows in the pistons themself, mine are not moved but i know others that have inlarged theirs and claim it works.

is there an benifit to making these larger and or raising them on a dune ported bike?

from what I've heard they scrapped the sand camping becouse of the few people that cuase problems and leave junk behind, it really sucks!!!! they should have asigned camp spots and ticket people who cuase these problems for others instead of shutting every one out.

I would start with a 320 main jet with the clip in the middle and some 27.5 pilot jets, air screws 1 1/2 out ,this worked on my brothers bike before he was ported 60 degress at sea level.

I was riding at south jetty today and some people where telling me they may be closing all dune access in oregon jan1 2005. have others heard this???

well they don't fit as well as my t5 pipes or my fattys but they sure pull hard and rev to the moon! Have not raced my freinds bike yet to see how they are compaired to his t5 +4 stroker. did notice some wet oil film on ends of silencers but my other bike with fmf pipes was dry. PLugs look good with 340main jets, noted the same thing on another bike with cpi pipes.

Hi I just sold my t5 pipes and bought some shearer inframe pipes but I'm not sure how the silencers mount, do they mount with the grab bar bolt just spaced out or forward?? the right stinger pipe is real tight to the frame. I;m not running a air box so it's not in the way. could any one running these pipes post a picture of how they mounted theirs. thanks

I need a point to start jetting from if i switch from stock carbs with k&n in box no lid running t5 pipes 330 mains but putting on shearer in frame pipes I'll need to loose the box and go to pod filters. I have a set of trx250r keihin 34 pjs i was thinking of trying. they have 155 mains or should i just run pods on the stockers. bike has dune portting cool head 170psi on 1/2 race gas j&s130

does any one here run the shearer on frame drag pipes?? are they any good i was thinking of selling my t5s and buying these. I was going to get cpi but every one's got cpi or t5s. My other shee has fattys and runs just as hard or harder then my t5s and both bikes a setup the same other than the bike with t5s is advanced +4. thanks

I've read some post with similiar problems but never seen one reply with the fix I've seen three times this last year. the complaint would be back fire on full throttle hill climbs or just not pulling as hard as it should may act like it's fat on the main jet dark plugs but dropping a size main has slight change. I know of one bike guy who leaned down and melted down his piston. the problem turned out to the resister built into the end of the plug wire boots, should be approx 5k changed boots and shee ran like a banshee before that I was getting blown away by my brothers built 250r after that i beat him by 3bikes up comp hill, so don't forget these $3.00 parts they will screw with your mind!!!!!

stock 03 with 21cc cool head no timing adv. 9paddle hualers -13t front sprocket. k&n with plate in box no lid open dune riding some up hill racing. may port cyls in year or 2.

just what is taper bored carbs, how is it done and how far are bored? is it a power differnce you can feel?

ok my motor has a 4mm stroker short rod and cut domes .80/2mm for the piston clearance above the deck with no plate. i don,t have a dedree wheel yet but the ports measure ex-27.5mm from deck to top of port. the floor of the ports have not been dropped, transfer ports are 42mm from deck. intake ports are 67mm from deck. are these cut too much for this crank?? any idea what spec would i need for a good dune motor when i get a degree wheel thanks for the help

is it true that if you install a 4mm stroker into a motor which was already ported you could run into problems with ransfer port timing and duration, I read it so where but lost it. Is there any kind of book or guide on the set up of a stroker crank? thanks

so if the motor was ported before i added the stroker crank and was using a cut dome insted of a plate, which ports need to bo moved and which way, up on the transfers and the ex 2mm?

here's more questions on stroke cranks, is the wiseco 795 piston for use on a long rod crank and a spacer plate used for the difference on a 4mm stroke? would use of a spacer plate on a stroker crank motor keep the piston port timing same as a stoke crank on the down stroke? and if the piston moves 2mm farther into the case it would be 2mm below the tranfer port and ex floor then adding a plate would add to that 4mm total? would you have to rework the transfer floor or just run it? current set up is ..80 over, 4mm short rod, ported cylinders,ported reed cage, 35mm carbs,170psi, and t-4s has domes cut .80 to clear piston no spacer plate. problem is good pwr to upper mid then just stops reving wouldn,t wind up high main jets tried 350,340, 330 but i don,t think it's jetting thanks for any insight.

Hi I've got a question for the experts here, a friend of mine just bought a trick racing 4mm stroker std rod crank they cut his 18cc trinity pro domes .80 to clear the pistons. would this be the same as moving the dome up 2mm for the added up stroke of 2mm I though this was why they sell a spacer plate and wouldn't this set up require the port to be reworked. just looking for some insight. thanks