mall0y

Have you ever taken then rotor off? What condition are the allen bolts/threads in? If everything is in good condition, I'll take it.

Hey guys, I'm looking for a rear brake hub. Threads for the bold holes must be in good condition! Thanks, Dave

Haha, I think this is a coal region thing... How long do you think it will take until everyone else starts running them?? Vamps will destroy any other tire out there, hands down.

Every 2-stroke I've ever built used 2 rings. Banshee's, Blasters, 250's, etc... I would call up the piston manufacturer and ask them whats up. They'll know for sure.

70 is definatley too low and 4 kicks won't give you an accurate reading. Keep kicking it until the needle stops rising. Check out the chart I attached. Remember they are only estimates but it should give you a good idea of what you're working with.

Yeah I've been down there a couple times. Great guys to work with. I try to mail order all of my stuff though. The only things I'll get at small shops are oil, oem parts, and tires. I'll probably end up forking out the $100 so I can go out this weekend. Saturday and Sunday are supposed to be nice.

Ya know, I really wish I could help you with your spark issue. I'm having the same problem with my brothers blaster. One minute the spark is nice and fine, the bike started (made a strange clicking noise which I have yet to identify), an hour later it wont start, spark is weak. Check the obvious (connections, stator, coil, etc). Let me know if you figure it out.

100psi is pretty low. I would strongly consider rebuilding an engine with that low of a compression. A stock, fresh motor should have around 125psi in each cylinder. I'm assuming you had the top-end rebuilt when you had the crank put in. You should definitely have more than 100psi. Try using another tester, make sure 100psi is what you really have. If it is, then I would suspect that this is your problem. You mention no spark on the left side. Try switching the plug caps and see if the problem exists. Make sure that you are indeed not getting spark. Sometimes it is hard to see the spark. I usually do this test in my garage with all of the lights off. When grounding the plug on the cylinder head, you should see a fat blue spark. Also, did you do this work yourself or have a shop do it? You may want to call the shop up if thats the case. A top-end shouldn't fail in 20 seconds unless something is majorly wrong. I hope this helps...

The clutch is relativley new. About 8 months on it. It is a cheap Tusk one, but I was in a pinch and needed one quick. Hopefully I can tear it apart this weekend. Thanks Guys.

Yeah, we go down to St. Clair every once in a while. Usually down by Walmart and the waterfalls. I mostly ride around Shenandoah and the surrounding areas. Where do you ride at?

Where is it spewing? The overflow above the right pipe? Sometimes this spewing is caused because of the location of coolant bottle on the banshees. I know that mine spewed whenever I would climb hills. I did relocate it to the front of the quad and it stopped. I'm not sure if this is your problem or not. I personally don't have any experience with advancing the timing or the milled head. Maybe someone else can chime in...

How do you know it's over heating? Is it spewing anti-freeze? Do you have a temp gauge? How did you come to the idea that it was overheating? Getting a better idea of your situation will help us out. Advancing the timing and bumping up the compression shouldn't require you to re-jet. You may need to run a higher octane depending on how much the head is shaved. Do you have any idea what compression you have?

Do you have the correct amount of oil in the crankcase? Sounds to me that you may have too much in there. Too much oil plus the pressure built up by running the engine hard may be pushing some oil out. I would check the oil level first and then go from there.

I'm going to assume you posted this in the wrong thread?

Yeah, that's what I'm guessing. I was going to take it apart but it's too cold to wash it right now. I just want to have an idea of whats going on. Thanks.

Hey guys, I need some help trying to figure out what happened here. Yesterday I took the shee out for a ride. I pulled out of the garage and went on my way. About a mile later I was cruising down an old haul road in 5th gear. I went to shift into 6th, everything felt fine, it clicked right into gear, but when I let the clutch out and gave it gas it felt like I was in neutral. The quad revved up, but I didn't go anywhere. So, I down shifted through all of the gears and I got the same exact thing. It's like I'm hitting neutral in every gear. At first I thougth I popped my chain but I didn't. The clutch feels fine when I pull the cable, but the quad acts as if the clutch is pulled 100% of the time. The quad starts and runs fine. I can shift through the gears fine (even when it's running) but It just doesn't go. Theres no griding, crunching, or resistance. I'm assuming its something clutch related. I can't tear it apart right now to see because It's filty dirty and I want to wash it before hand (too cold out to wash it right now). So, can anybody give me a clue as to what it may be? I just want to get an idea of where to look and what I could be dealing with here. Thanks!

When was the last time you rebuilt it? What kind of compression does it have? Also, what does the plug look like?

If the plugs are soaking wet then you are definitely too rich. As for the PWK 33's, I don't have much experience with them so I don't know what to tell you as far as jet sizes. Hope this helps a little.

Ok, well I'll check this out when I get a chance to look at the carbs on my quad. I installed the idle kit on my other carbs and I could swear the idle screws were drilled lower. Oh well, I'll just have to wait till friday...

I know what you are saying, but I'm looking at a stock left side carb and it looks like this tit is pressed in from the outside. The part that I circled is what appears to be this tit when looking at it from the outside. Am I right or wrong?

Are you talking about this... picture is attached....

I don't think so. I didn't take the carbs apart or even off of the bike when I changed the cable. I didn't have much time to monkey with it. My bro wanted to go riding so when I couldn't figure this out I just jumped on the dirt bike and went out. I'm at school right now, so the next time I'll get to look at it is this weekend. I just thought someone may have ran into this problem before and could give me a little insight. Thanks.

Hey guys. Recently I switched my throttle/air filter setup. I removed the TORS, put in the idle kit, got rid of the air box and put pods on it, re-jetted, and threw a twist throttle on. Well, everything was running fine until I broke my throttle cable one day. So, I got a replacement cable and put it on. Started the bike up, took it for a rip down the street. As soon as I cracked the gas the throttle stuck. So, I shut it off and pushed it back into the garage. I took the pods off and noticed that the right hand slide was stuck up, at full throttle. So, I took the cap off, re-positioned it, put the cap back on, and pulled the throttle (without the bike running or the pods on). When I twisted the throttle (all they way to full throttle) the slide seemed to be coming up, then once it reached the top it twisted about 1/4 of a turn. No matter what I did I couldn't figure out why it was doing this. I switched the springs, caps, and cable ends and it still did it. I took the cable apart and lubed everything up and put it back together and it still twists. It only happens on the right side. The left works fine. So, does anybody know what could be causing this? If I need to, I can put the stock thumb throttle back on (which would mean I'd also have to buy a new cable). Any input is appreciated. Thanks!!!!! - Dave

does anybody have any ideas??? It doesnt seem right to me that the stock size pilot jet seems too rich for my setup. is there anything else i can mess with or adjust? any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

Hey guys, I descided to stop dumping money into my bike and spend a little cash on the shee. My friend was parting out a semi-complete banshee that he acquired on a trade. I got a set of stock carbs with the tors removed and a set of UNI pod airfilters (the ones that clamp on the back of the carbs, no airbox) with outerwears. I also thought it might be cool to give a twist throttle a try so I purchaced a twist throttle and cable. My set up before the carbs and the filters was as follows: Bills Pipes/Silencers, V-Force 3 reeds, Pro-Flow filter/clamp, 280 main jets, 32.5 pilots, and the clip on the needle was in the center notch. The jetting was spot on, prefect coco brown plugs, no bogging, hesitation etc... I took off the airbox and the old carbs and proceded to put the carbs and filters on that I purchased. I figured that I would have to compensate a little on the jetting for the increased airflow from the pod filters so I threw 290 mains and the 32.5 pilots in to see how she would run. After I got the twist throttle and everything installed and adjusted I started it up and took it for a ride. The quad ran EXTREMELY rich at all throttle positions. Blue smoke everywhere and fouled plugs by the time I went down the alley and back. So, I took the 290's out, put the 280's back in, changed the plugs, and took it for a ride. It was better, towards 3/4-full throttle but it was still rich and bogging realy bad in the lower RPM ranges. So, I this time I put in the stock 25 pilots and a new set of plugs and took it for a ride. The lower RPM/throttle bogging improved quite a bit but it was still running on the rich side and blowing alot of smoke. So, back into the garage she went. This time I bumped the needles down one notch (now the clip is on the 2nd notch from the top), played with the air screws, and took it for a ride. Now there is only a slight bog when you first try to start the quad or try to pull out. It wont idle, you can tell because its too rich, and it is still blowing a little more blue smoke than normal, but its rideable. Well, I was sick of working on it so I took it out on a Saturday going on a normal trail/hillclimb/haul road ride like I usualy do. Half way through the day I found myself hitting reserve and having to fill up my gas tank. Before this whole jetting ordeal I would be able to ride all day Saturday and maybe for an hour or 2 on sunday on one tank of gas. The first thing that baffles me is how the quad would run so rich after I put the pod filters on. Increased airflow would mean you need bigger jets correct? The second is the gas mileage. I know it was running a little rich, but to cut my gas mileage nearly in half seems a little crazy. Can anybody give me any insight as to what may be causing these things? It just doesn't seem right that when I put a more free flowing airfilter set up my bike all of a sudden ran extremely rich. Thanks!