bigboreshee

anytime you plan on doing major mods welding the jpurnals to the crank webs is a good idea. A two stroke crankshaft is multi piece, meaning u press a journal to the web install your rod bearing and rod, then press the other web onto the journal. When done you have to place crank on v-blocks with dial indicator on each side to ensure crank is no more than 0.003in out of true so it is well balanced. When you have it welded they weld the journal to the web to ensure high rpm doesnt take it out of true and separate the crankshaft.

O.K. heres the run down on the throttle override system. Current flows into your tors control box from the cdi unit and it also flows into your engine stop switch. If the current finds a path to ground the cdi will kill the ignition. When the engine stop switch is in the off position the cuurent from the cdi goes to ground thus killing the ignition. With the engine stop switch in the run position the current from the cdi continues into the tors box where it splits off to gate#1 of the thyristor and continues on to be decreased by resistance in the tors box.The current then exits the tors box and goes on to the throttle switch and carb swiitches which keeps the current from going to Gate#3 of the thyristor. If one of your switches are bad the current will flow into gate#3 of the thyristor allowing it to turn on and complete a path to ground thus killing the ignition. ( A thyristor is basically a 3-way switch with current on gate#1,Ground on gate#2, and gate#3 is the switch which will Connect Gate#1 and Gate #2. Yea it could save your ass IF something happened to one of the carbs, but chances are one of the switches will go bad before your slide sticks. It doesn't hurt a thing to unhook it. And if u unhook it you have to get the kit which eliminates the tors caps on the carbs

Definately your carbs dirty. Soake in carb cleaner for short time and bloww all jets and passage ways with compressed air. Also check plugs and clean or replace

Sounds like a air leak most likely. If it was a crank seal it would be on the left side considering that is the dry side where the stator is and air would come in that side. If the right side crank seal was bad you would have a rich condition on your right side from the oil coming in from the clutch side. I would try doing a leak down test. Plug off your intake and exhaust with a rubber cork or anything that makes an airtight seal. Get you a hand pump vacuum tester, put piston at bottom dead center and pump it up to no more than 9 psi and you should have no more than 1 psi per minute leakage. Use som soapy water to help find the leak. Check your cylinder base and head gasket,where top and bottom cases come together,reed gasket,and around where you sealed off intake and exhaust.

Did you replace the springs with new ones? Slipping would be caused by weak springs or improper adjustment. Pretty sure it doesnt make a difference how the plates are installed.

I believe running her a little rich would be a good idea for at least the first tank. With new rings extra oil will help them seat properly. I'd run 28:1 to 32:1 for that first tank. As far as break in procedure I'd search this site for a detailed desciption.

I'll be storing her indoors.

Getting ready to leave town for a year. Is their any special precautions i should take before leaving the shee sitting around?

Are you saying that if i want to run the 15T i will need to change pipes? Messing with the mains will not solve my problem? Will a 14T solve my problem? Do i have to go back to my 13T in order to run my current setup? Can someone please explain why increasing the front teeth causes it to bog at top end?

not in sand

I recently rejetted to 320 mains and 30 pilots for dual K&Ns at 400ft. above sea level with stock carbs and mods listed below.Ran perfectly fine with a 13T, switched to the 15T and couldn't get 6th to stretch out

Recently swapped 13T front sprocket for 15T and it bogs in 6th. Does it sound like i need to adjust mains?

I recently installed dual k&ns when it had a 13T frnt sprocket and I put 320 mains and 30 pilots and it ran great. Put the 15T on and it wouldn't stretch out in 6th.

I have a brand new 15T front sprocket with ONE 5 minute run on it. Sixth gear didn't want to open up. If anyone has a NEW 14T front sprocket that they want to trade notify me.

Your Cool Head will need speacial big bore domes. I've only seen them up to 69mm.

dont know elevation, live in evansville Indiana

I just switched out my stock airbox for dual k&ns and now its spittin and sputtering. I need to know what needs to be changed(main,pilot,needle). I checked the mains they are 190s, needles are in the middle position and have the letters 5n7 on them, I wasnt for sure where to check for the pilot.

I'm possibly interested if you could let me know how much you'd take for it?

You can get 2 k&ns and 2 Outerwears on rockymountainatv.com for $60.

You can get a repair manual at a local dealership,Amazon.com, or possibly your local library like mine happened to have.That could have been caused by your rod bearing going out and causing it to drag on the front side or it was running to lean.

Put a bigger front sprocket on.

With those pistons missing all that metal from top I would definately take the little bit of extra time to split the cases and make sure everything is clean and especially that there are no pieces of metal that could throw your rod bearing. If that happened you would have to rebuild your bottom end (which isn't cheap) and your top end again. Just make sure you have a manual and follow the steps, it's a breeze.

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How much for the 35pwks and k&ns?

I recently put some mid-range ported bigbore cylinders on my banshee. I still have the stock carbs on it, but I want to go with some bigger carbs. Which stlye and size of carbs would anyone reccommend? If anyone has some for sale notify me.