Fox73-Zz

Just FYI, the nerfs with heal guards do NOT have reloacted pegs. I just sent back a set because I wanted relocated pegs and it didn't have them. http://acracing.com/site/itemdetails.cfm?I...g=49&sort=price Just so you know, and nobody else gets confused

White Bros has the pilot's for $2.50 each. You can get them from parts direct for $2.05 each, but if you only want the jets, buy them locally through a WB dealer, the PD shipping will end up costing more than you save. If you need part numbers, let me know. To the original poster: Nobody can say 100% sure if you need to go up in jet size, only your machine can tell you that, but it is likely that you need to. With pipes/filter, you should be in the 280-310 range, depending on your specific pipe's thirst, elevation, and temp. It is ~40 f here, roughly sea level, and I have a K&n + PSI pipes and I am running a 340. The only way to really tune it is trial and error. In the end, you will have a collection of jets. As far as getting the carbs off, I found it is a little more overall work, but I remove the front fenders and fuel tank. That makes it easier to get the carbs out. Also, if you replace the TORS tops, it makes getting them off easier.

I am looking for a set of front fenders, preferably black, but red would work too. If they are not cut, I plan on cutting them, so if they were cracked/scratched/damaged in the flares, they would still be okay.

Yeah, I think I skimmed it before the boards were changed, but after I tried it and it didn't work, I wanted to make sure I didn't overlook anything. I tried both the blue can, fume free, cold formula easy off, and the original heavy duty yellow can easy off. I let them sit on the surface for 10-30 mins (different applications). Both made the surface hazy, but didn't take it off. I also tried phosphoric acid, but it didn't do anything either. The only thing I can think is that the cold is really slowing the process down (which chemically makes sense). If it is going to be this much trouble, I will just wait until I have the skins to buy new wheels. Tips from anybody who has taken the gold off?

I am trying to get that damn gold off my wheels, but it isn't working. I sprayed them with Easy-Off (oven cleaner) and let them sit....They became clean and shiny, but still gold. Does anybody have any tips for getting it off? (I have muratic acid at my disposal as well, if that would work better) Note: it is around 40 deg F outside now. I figured that would affect it, but not keep it from working at all. Thanks Edited to fix spelling

I like my PSI pipes. I have never used anything other than stock so I can't really do much comparison. Here is an article that I came across about them http://www.atvsource.com/articles/product_...nshee_pipes.htm