Basicorpse
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Posts posted by Basicorpse
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man, your gonna have to be careful jetting those in. Porwork can be from one extreme to the other in regards to jetting.
You could be from 340 to 380, so I'd say start at 360 and hope you get some good readings. You may be on the high side, but I dunno, this is where plug checking really comes in handy....
I emailed the guy I bought the cylinders from and he was running 270 mains with the porting, dmc pipes, and holes in the air box lid at an elevation of 550 feet. To me it seems as though he was running lean. But can porting actually make your jetting go down?
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I recently ordered some ported cylinders with pistons off ebay. My main jet was 290, stock pilot with toomey t5s and removed air box lid before the port. What is a good place to start after the port? I know it is port specific but I would like to know what jet range to order.
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I have an 02 shee and im at 650ft above sea level, temp is 65-85 I had 270 mains in and last week I melted a piston.pilots ect are all stock.I mix amsoil at 32:1 .Just wondering if these setting seem way off to anybody.My mods are
pt powerhead 22cc domes
pt midrange pipes
pro flow k-n filter
pyramid reeds
advanced timeing +4 any advice would be helpful thanks
Just a thought but were you running pump gas or race gas? I am fairly certain with the advanced timing you are supposed to run higher octane fuel.
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Man I would say for the amount of money you are looking to spend get a good quality port job. And stick with the stock stroke crank. You will have a excellent running machine with good porting. You have pipes that are compatable with porting and you say you carbs are modified. That should all work with your set-up without breaking you budget. Godd luck on whatever you decide.
Yea that is what I am thinking. Do you know where I can get a cheap crank from?
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My engine is basically +4 stroker with very mild cleanup port job. Nothing raised or lowered. Running stock carbs and airbox with lid, Fatties, Trinity modified stock head at 150 psi compression. +4 ignition timing. Runs like a raped ape. Will out pull nearly all of the ported 350s I have run, except the ones on alky.The lowend throttle response is phenominal compared to the 350 engines. This combination is a good all around engine for trails, climbing and MX. With a mild port job and a higher comp. ratio, it will get with the business. I have run T5s on this engine with good results, just not nearly the lowend response, but with more over rev. I have a set of taper bored carbs to sell,or I can bore your's, if you are interested Pm me .
I believe my carbs are already bored. Or at least they are rifled they have a spiral like pattern machined into them. Like that when I got the bike. I have t5 pipes already so that should be good I heard they respond well to porting. Is your porting stroker specific or is it just general porting? Who did the porting for you? I am in need of 1 cylinder should I just buy 1 and have them bored to match each other or buy a pair?
Also thanks for pointing out its not a stroker crank I just saw the +5 mm and automatically thought stroker. Big mistake, although it does come with spacer plates so it must increase displacement some.
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building a stroker will definately cost more than 800 . stclark highly recommends a Eric Gorr port. Best bang for your buck at 200. he ran toomeys with his port job and says it ran awsome. i would get the eric gorr woods port, stock carbs bored out to 28mm, some new pistons, and a noss machine head.
What do you think of this kit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=34284
Running with stock cylinders until next season when I can afford a stroker specific port job. How much power increase will I see with stock porting? What if i just have a regular mx port on the cylinders done will it affect anything with the stroker?
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Will you do a package deal on the stroker crank and top end? If so I am interested.
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I threw a rod on my shee and destroyed one of the cylinders and piston. One of my rods are also bent. The crankcase has a few grooves in it but seems to be usable.
I am thinking about doing either a 4mm stroker crank and getting it ported over the winter. Or just getting new ported cylinders and pistons and grab a cheap stock crank. What do you guys reccomend?
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ok so i fire the she up and she runs.. but my right side cylinder doesnt blow out the exhaust like the left side unless i give it some rev's up then at higher rpm it will fire.. i think it runs better at that higher rev since i am making the spark fire more often.. anyways, she runs fine around the track and has lil bog at the low end then screams and i have to hold on... she doesnt backfire or anything to that nature... i've played with the air screws the idle screw. could this be a air leak.. i just installed a vforce 3 and didnt put sealant around the gasket and thought i didnt need it since there was none really on the stock cages... but now im am thinkin there is a ir leak possibly...
Yea it definetly could be an air leak. My quad was doing the same thing and a few days later while riding it, it just died. Turns out my spark plug had vibrated loose causing a lean condition which made my piston on that side disengrate.
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I have the same setup as you white and red plastics. I bought a DMP graphics kit off ebay that came with the seat cover for $70. Here is a bad pic of my shee from a long time ago.
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I rode 45 miles on a full tank and still hadnt hit my reserve yet. I was riding with my buddy on his kodiak 450 so he kept track of the mileage we rode on his odometer. Needless to say I was quite happy with the gas mileage I got.
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Yea its a +2 axle for a raptor meaning that it should be stock length for a banshee. Thanks for the replies guys.
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My buddy found a great deal on a lone star raptor axle and I was just wondering if it would bolt right up to the banshee with no problems, or modifications.
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My buddy accidently kicked up a rock and cracked my stock head light tonite so I just ordered a set of trail tech lights tonite. I will report back when I get them installed.
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A guy on ebay sells them. In the auction it states that you can custom request any color you want. I have also seen them on albas website.
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I may be willing to buy the a arms and the shocks as a package, depending how much would you knock off.
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I am intrested in the a arms and the shocks let me know a price.
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I would definetly get new needles if I were you. You dont want them binding up in there. I have a set of toomey needles in my carbs and I am very happy with them.
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Thanks I'll definetly have to try that. Do you think home depot or ace hardware would have something like that?
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Im using belrays gear saver oil 80w. The wierd thing is I have been running it for a while with no leaks, then all of a sudden it started leaking.
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So my shift shift was leaking oil so I think ok no big deal I'll just replace the seal and everything will be fine.. nope still leaked. Then I went out and bought a new shift shaft and another new seal. After replacing the shift shaft and the shifter seal the thing still leaks! It is leaking from the inside of the seal where the shaft goes through. It is not leaking from where the seal meets the case. I have a bran new shaft and seal it should not be leaking... My machine has me so frustrated right now I am thinking about selling it please help me!
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I figured it out... The one that isnt grinded is first gear, since no one is going to shift from netrual to first under power it isnt neccessary to grind it down.
YFZ SHOCKS
in Suspension
Posted
I dont really like the idea of grinding down a part of my frame. Couldn't I just grind down the top and bottom and the shock a little to get it to fit?